Replies

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 14, 2000 10:38pm | #1

   *
   Tod:

   Though I don't install much base, I have however seen what you're speaking of as I install qtr'd after my hardwood floors are down. I can see kerfing the back side of alot of itty bitty 3/4"+- pieces but the base I have seen runs straight to a couple of 22 1/2º and filled with caulk....seems to be the standard here in SW Fla. Imagine the frustration I have at times installing prefinished matching qtr'd. Angles have to be perfect...no fillers.

   Any help?

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 14, 2000 11:07pm | #2

   *This was discussed a few months ago. Joe H Joe Fusco "Latest issue p. 12 , doesn't like baseboard detail!" 4/1/00 3:31am

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 14, 2000 11:11pm | #3

   *I have no idea why the link above looks like it does, what I put in was the actual address. It has been "magicked" into the blue stuff by the gremlins in the site...buddies of the "Spell Checker" monster I suppose. Joe H

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 15, 2000 12:13am | #4

   *TodPut up some built up base to both inside and o.s. radius corners. Fella that made and supplied the base also supplied corner blocks made up to deal with the radius drywall. If your style warrants this look you might think about the blocks. Looked good and really set off the corners. Blocks were proud of the base thickness, a steep chamfer at the top, otherwise square. Easy to work with. Inside corners nail first to the proceeding base. Then push it in to its location. Outside corners were beefier and were plowed out on one corner to match the bullnose d.w., radiused on the opposite corner and still proud of the base. All shoe was 5/16th flat stock with eased top. You've got to plan out the shoe cuz of the blocks. Carpet, no problem. Hard surface floor, the blocks would need cut to the finish. Best of luck.

1. 
   Guest_ | Jul 15, 2000 02:22am | #5

   *Hi Tod,One trick I like to use is turn a block on the lathe and drill a hole into the center, in your case would be 1" diameter, and the outside diameter would be 1" + twice the thickness of your base plus 1/4" and cut to length (6 inches) then you quarter the piece and your left with four cournerstops for your base to butt against. It maintains the soft lines of the radius corners and give a unique finished look.The inside corners are simply short pieces of quarter round and the base butts against it.Gabe

2. 
   Guest_ | Jul 15, 2000 02:53am | #6

   *Tod,

   Joe's link missed the mark a bit, this one I hope is a little closer. Try this.

   View Image © 1999-2000"The first step towards vice is to shroud innocent actions in mystery, and whoever likes to conceal something sooner or later has reason to conceal it." Aristotle

3. 
   Guest_ | Jul 15, 2000 10:12pm | #7

   *Joe:Thanks for that photo as it get's my vote hands down, and no I didn't look into the actual article, cause I'm lost on trying to find it here. Haven't been here 'fer awhile so I'm not navigating well...Have never seen the so called "plinth blocks" for those outside radius's as someone spoke of. Interesting though as designers love any new look.

4. 
   Guest_ | Jul 17, 2000 01:33am | #8

   *Tod:The picture that Joe posted from the magazine is the standard in our area. It seems like everybody is using rounded drywall corners here. The diameter of the corners we see is 1 1/2". When we cut the little 22 1/2 degree corner pieces the short point to short point works out to be about 3/4". The resulting two gaps are actually very small. Most common paint grade baseboard patterns have matching "factory" round corners. Some come in a MDF match to match the thickness of MDF which is often different than finger jointed material. The corners are one quarter of a donut by the height of the baseboard with a matching pattern (ogee or what ever). The radius on the inside matches the wall and the larger radius on the outside makes the curved transition from one wall to the next. Be careful of the pattern match. Different millwork manufactures can have slightly different patterns and especially thicknesses. I have bought these corners for a 3 1/4" ogee pattern for under $2.00 each. I have also seen some for over $4.00 for a 5 1/4" pattern. The "factory" corners are easy to install. We install the corner first then butt the baseboard up to it. The draw back is the expense of the corners and the fact that the butt joints usually show. The 22 1/2 degree method is a little tricky but it has a natural line at the mitre which is more forgiving. Doing radius corners is time consuming no matter what method you use. So who's the wise guy who started using these corners? What ever happened to good old square corners? Doesn't "corner" mean square? For answers to all these questions and more....stay tuned.

5. 
   Guest_ | Jul 17, 2000 05:22am | #10

   *Rounded drywall corners are quite common in my area also and due to the extra time involved in cutting and installing them, I've added them as an upcharge whenever I'm asked to work up a trim bid.Some of the homes I've trimmed that had this detail were looking for the Southwestern abobe type look which is what I thought was the reason for its use out here. Must be some other reasons for use in other parts of the country. One detail that I think looks really nice is when you run crown moulding on an outside radiused corner. A couple weeks ago I ran some 4-1/4" crown over a 5-1/4" backer. When its going around one of those outside corners it sort of gives the house a Victorian type of appearance.

2. 
   Tod_Murdock | Jul 17, 2000 05:22am | #9

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   Ive run into a problem where a customer wants 6" baseboard run around the house. The problem is they have 1" radius drywall cornerbead. Ive never done this before. After talking to my local supplier, he thinks I should kerf the backside but I feel that would be too much of a pain. Who knows of a better way?

3. 
   markls8 | Mar 26, 2003 08:43am | #11

   This might be obvious to some but it wasn't to me at the time I read this (old) posting. I remember reading it and the way the problem of trimming the base on a bullnosed drywall corner is solved in my area is to not start the radius until after the height of the baseboard has been reached. Then the base trim can be installed in the usual manner without the need for any filler.

   Just thought I'd post this in case anyone else missed this. (or maybe I should just say dohhh?) - Brian.

1. 
   vineyrdbuilt | May 26, 2003 06:00am | #12

   I have trimmed many homes with bullnose corners on the drywall.  Split 45 in two and round the corner.