I’ve got 200 feet, 46 pieces of 4 1/4″ MDF base to do in an office suite built out with drywall & steel stud construction. Obviously I can’t shoot into the sill plate and studs. Only way I can think of is to shoot 2 1/4″ 18g at an angle, alternating direction to get some kind of hold.
What technique has worked best for you guys?
Thanks,
Replies
Rip OSB or plywood the same thickness as your drywall to 3" or so wide and screw to the studs keeping it about 1/2" above the floor (if concrete). Have the drywall finished down to the top of the plywood. Nail the base as usual to the new wood backing.
Notching and fitting 2xs between the studs also works but is a lot more work.
Edited 4/26/2007 2:43 pm by boiler7904
I like to use some construction adhesive to help hold the base to the wall. For jobs like this, I use the water-base stuff- it's easier to clean up if it squeezes out, and has plenty of hold.
I cross-nail the base, like you said. And nailing into the metal suds does grab, at least some.
The most effective way is with a ply wood ripper at the bottom. You can shoot at an angle in to studs but they do not always hold Sometimes i will use trim screws but you have to be careful because they can cause the mdf to bust. I keep a magnet in my tool bag to find the stud locations.
Use drywall mud. Sticks good, no holes to patch, comes off clean and easy to clean up.
I think I would go with Power Grab adhesive and alternately angled nails into the studs.
I did a similar job recently and used trim screws. Seemed to work ok but certainly slower than nailing. I like the idea of a ripped piece of plywood at the bottom.
I like the idea of the strips of plywood at the bottom of the drywall. I thinks I'll file that one. I usually just use PL Premium Construction adhesive and 18g brads. It has always worked for me.
Dave
The plywood rips sound great for the trim carpenter. Wouldn't that compromise the wall's fire performance/rating? I vote for Powergrab and angled brads. Besides, it's less work if the drywall is done already.Bill
Yes you can shoot into the studs and track. If you're talking about 20 gauge stud, a 15 gauge finish nailer will do it easily. I've done it time and time again. If the stud is a heavier gauge, Senco makes an "armor piercing" 15 ga finish nail that'll tame 16 ga stud. If you need the part # I'll go look at my box of nails in the truck, ( DA199 or something like that), let me know.
With the beating baseboard usually takes I use a little adhesive too. Other trim, like casing, really doesn't need it.
Toenailing can be useful between studs if the rock has a belly in it. Just gently push it in with your foot before you shoot.
buic
Wow, 15ga finish nails for base! Who'da thunk it.Carpet butts right up to the wall now (previous base was vinyl cove molding), so when I probed with an ice pick to see what kind of studs there were, I found only about 3/4" of the track accessable above the carpet for nailing. Exactly how would I go about determining the gauge of steel studs/track in an existing wall?I found the SENCO DA17AIA (1 1/2") or DA19AIA (1 3/4") online at Woodworker's Hardware for $46 and $53 per 4000. Don't know where to get them locally; certainly not HD or Lowes.
BruceT
Exactly how would I go about determining the gauge of steel studs/track in an existing wall?
If I had to guess, 95% of interior walls are 20 gauge. Exterior wall are heavier.
Just try a shot, but pick your test spot carefully. Be aware that pulling a shot nail is usually a pain, the studs tend to grab the nails, like a one way barb.
You might try your 18 ga. gun too. The nails penetrate the stud more often then you might think. Also don't forget to try a plain 15 ga., they work most of the time!
According to Senco, most of their retailers have them. I get my DA19AIA nails from a local tool store. They're $50 a box too, and worth every penny. They work so well that I've used them to shoot trim over a metal door buck.
If you can't find them let me know, I'll put a couple of sticks in the mail for you to try.
There is something oddly satisfying about shooting a finish nail into steel. <g> buic
Thanks for the help and offer to send some. Local dealers can order in two days. I'll just have to go over there a few days beforehand and try a couple of shots with ordinary 15ga.You said, "There is something oddly satisfying about shooting a finish nail into steel."I'll bet there is. I felt something like that when I installed a 12-foot extruded aluminum wardrobe door track and needed to put a nice
baseboard for trim across the top of the opening. 18ga brads worked like a charm.BruceT
Trim head screws. Not as much fun.... more work.... but a better job.
J. D. Reynolds
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