I have to replace a couple of basement windows.
They are the type you would see in most basements, or should I say the kind “I ” see in most basements. Metal frame, pull down lever that opens the window in a few inches.
I’m not sure how to measure the rough opening on these windows because i’m not familiar with how the window sits in the opening. I can’t tell if the frame wraps around the foundation wall at the edges or if the sides of the frame are solid and sit right against the foundation.
Is anyone familiar with these ? and how they sit in the opening? (I apologize for the lame description)
If so, I would like to know the best way to remove this type of window, sawzall out the frame maybe?
Also would like to hear the the preferred method for installing a new window in this type of opening, such as framing it out with PT etc…
Another first for me 🙂
Mick
Replies
Are you replacing with glass block? If so measure the opening and go from there. There are only so many different sizes of glassblock so you get close to the opening then grout the window set in place.
As far as removing the old window. Its takes a little finesse, a sawsall, a prybar, and maybe a sledge hammer.
Remove the glass, then cut the top and or bottom of the remaining frame. Then pry on the piece you just cut and the window should eventually come out.
If I remember correctly the windows are kinda "keywayed" into the block on either side.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
They are usually cemented in-place. I plan on chipping the added concrete back to the foundation block to remove the frame. Sawsall will be nearby, as always.
You can measure the original frame. The big box stores have several standard sizes available at about $85. for vinyl double glazed sliders.
You may elect to reframe the opening with Azak? and install a slightly smaller window.
Or just screw and caulk, or cement the new window in.
Yes, double vinyl slider is what I plan on using.
"You can measure the original frame."
When you say "original frame", that is kind of what my post is asking. I'm not sure where to take the measurement from?
From inside to inside the window opening. outside to outside? I can't tell how the frame sits in the opening and how to properly measure the RO without taking the window out. Which I can't do until I get to the job, in which case I need the window with me.
"You may elect to reframe the opening with Azak? and install a slightly smaller window. Or just screw and caulk, or cement the new window in."
What would you frame the opening with, 2x PT?
Could you explain a little further about how to cement the window in? Also screwing it in to concrete?
You should be able to measure the rough opening of a basement window with the existing in-place. Then buy a slightly (1/4") smaller window to fit. They are pretty standard.I think framing the RO with 2x is not necessary, and would make it too small. Use 5/4 if you have to frame, unless the 2x works.Any thoughts from the vets on framing such window openings with Azak, or something rot proof? I guess the Azak has to be backed all along the length by the cement, so spanning the concave sides of concrete block wouldn't be good.
So would you guys say that the proper way to measure the opening would be from each side of the frame where it meets up to the concrete?
The way to measure depends on what kind of wall it is in and why you want it out or what you are replacing it with.Usually the ones I am familiar with have the metal frame a U shape frame with the void of the U facing the poured concrete. It was suspended in place in the forms before the crete was poured and the plastic concrete flowed into the void to anchor it in place.So if you are seeing about 2" of flat metal frame on the surface of the crete, that solid wall is part of the window now.As far as basic measuring, with most window companies, you can just go from glass size to read a chart in reverse.Is this frame rusted out and is that why you are trying to replace it?
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The foundation is poured, not block to answer above question.
Replacing with double vinyl slider.
I'm replacing it on customers request. (air flow, going to finish basement etc...)
"So if you are seeing about 2" of flat metal frame on the surface of the crete, that solid wall is part of the window now."
That is what I thought, which is I was asking if it would be best to measure for the RO from inside to inside of the window and not measure from end to end of existing frame, correct?
BTW, what is meant by "grouting" the window?
grout is filling in a space.usually with mixed masonry material.I am still a bit confused. I would probably do my best to educate the customer that this is going to be a very expensive thing to do just to change window style.The easy way would be to measure the steel frame as you see it like a RO and then go to one of the replacement window companies that will custom size a vinyl window. Then all you have to do is remove the sash and find a wayu to attach the new vinyl to the old steel frame. This will downsize a little tho.
The other concern that pops up is that if they are finishing this space now as a living space, do you need an egrees openning requiring that you totally change the openning size with a rented demo saw to cut the crete out.
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Yes , I had this discussion with homeowner about replacing the window and he is set on having it changed, and no he is not finishing the basement right know and did not want to deal with an egress at this time. Those were the first two things out of my mouth when he asked me to change them.
"Then all you have to do is remove the sash and find a wayu to attach the new vinyl to the old steel frame."
Not sure how I would handle covering where the two meet (vinyl window to metal frame) such as a trim or such, Any thoughts on this?
no, somebody elses turn.
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Maybe make the trim piece there out of Azec and glue it on.
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I'm not familiar with this Azec stuff, could you fill me in on this?
cellular PVC that can be cut and milled like wood. Does not rot. There is even some premilled as brickmold etc.
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Could the existing window stop that is molded into the frame be used to place the new window up against as opposes to some type of trim?
I know the double sliders in the outlets are pretty thin width and might fit into the back side of the existing frame. By back side I mean the inner side of the window frame from the bump out in the molding to the inside of the frame.
Just throwing this out there.
"Could the existing window stop that is molded into the frame be used to place the new window up against as opposes to some type of trim?"Yes, that is what I first suggested, but I took your mention of what to trim it with to mean there was nothing there.you have me at a severe disadvantage in this conversation because you can see what you have while I can only imagine it.I also have a mental block because I think your customer has a stupid idea so I am not fully involved in satisfying him like you are.
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"Yes, that is what I first suggested, but I took your mention of what to trim it with to mean there was nothing the"
Sorry 'bout that, kind of missed what you were saying, now I gets it!
So, how about this? I put a bead of sealant around the exterior frame of new window, put it up against existing window stop, drill through screw holes in sides of window and lag cement srews into sides of foundation, seal in and outside of frame. Would this be a proper installation?
"you have me at a severe disadvantage in this conversation because you can see what you have while I can only imagine it."
Yes, but your doing fine :)
"I think your customer has a stupid idea so I am not fully involved in satisfying him like you are."
In all fairness, I would want to change these windows out to if I was going to finish my basement into living space, hey wait a minute...are you calling me stupid too! :)
sorry, I'd just hung up phone from talking with an idiot right before that post. My patience was all used up.
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LOL, I love it!
So what do you think about my last post as far as the installation technique?
I love it.
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So it shall be done!
In MI, they were typically mortared in place by the brickies. The basement guys left the concrete square and larger than needed. The masons fit the windows into the hole and mortared inside and out.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Is this a block basement or a poured concrete basement?
Bojangles asked the right question. Jerry Jeff would be proud.
If it is block, the metal frame is usually cemented in around here.
If it is poured foundation, yippee.
A backhoe, a chain, a demo hammer, a sawzall, and a burly guy are the best options.
I am not burly but have used all the rest of the above on most of the ones I have ripped out of a poured wall. The concrete actually filles the middle hollowed out track so when you get the metal out, the concrete has a lip sticking in that will need to either be removed or kept to the exterior of the new slider.
Regarless of block or concrete, I would do a replacement style of window and drill and anchor the new window in and then grout it up once installed.
Most of the time, I am ripping them out and filling up with block because of a renovation conflict (Deck, patio, etc0