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In FHB #115 there was an article about basic rafter framing. I’m going to use that approach on my job, but the article only showed a rafter jig for a 12-in-12 pitch. I don’t know the pitch of the roof I’ll be building, but if it’s anything other than 12-in-12 I need to know how to modify the jig so that it’ll work the same. Any hints or suggestions? (By the way, I’m a union carpenter in NYC, where we usually don’t frame houses, in wood or in metal. That’s why I’m somewhat in the dark on this topic.)
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jja
Joseph Fusco
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*Joe,Thanks, I have bookmarked your site for future reference. We are currently framing up an unusually complicated roof and found ourselves beyond our experience. We were able to obtain a book of rafter cutting tables through our lumber supplier but it was not easy to find. Most of the residential construction around here uses roof trusses so there is not much demand. If jja is in NYC he may have to go to Long Island or New Jersey to find one.
*Steve,
Joseph FuscoView Image
*Doesnt the union require apprenticeships anymore or does anyone who pays dues and swears to the Democratic party become a member. Any carpenter who has mimimal experience should be able to cut rafters on any pitch. Im not knocking you personally but the union system you are under.Regardless of if your using metal, steel, wood, paper, the cut should be the same...Im no expert but have cut out several roofs and never paid a dollar of union dues. However.....if you dont know the pitch of the roof use a scale on the plans...or better call the architect. If matching an existing roof try leveling across and measuring up using ratio/proportion to determine the x/12 relationship or spend 8 dollars for a magnetic angle finder. If you know the slope.....(6/12) put one end of your framing square on 6 and the other on 12 and voila you have a 6/12 cut. If you know the angle only.....but a 5 dollar speed square and scribe the angle on the board. Then use your framing square to find the slope......oh well..........e mail me and i can tell you more....
*What the heck is a magnetic angle finder?JonC
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to Joe Fusco, nice text but, up-size the ridge(2 x 8 rafter needs 2 x 10 Ridge for bearing and to pass code here.Didn't finish reading the rest.
to original poster, learn to frame before charging for it.You should be able to determine ridge height without architect or plans.No need to scale, a roof is a triangle. everything can be worked out with Pythagoras theory...I wont say more 'cause as I'm often told the union training is better than the schooling I put myself thru!
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Jeff,
Joseph Fusco
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Brian, the union does have apprenticeship classes, but I came into the union as a full book carpenter, having worked for quite some time in the field non-union first. I can also frame a roof with no problems given some time, but I was asking specifically in reference to the FHB #115 article that made rafter layout and cutting extremely simple. In the union, simple means less time, and less time is good, therefore...
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Gentlemen,
The reason for the upsized ridge is to accommodate the length of the plumb cut on the rafter or jack to get full bearing on the surface of the plumb cut against the ridge. I have built roofs with no ridge before and they do work fine, no problem. But if a ridge is to be used, it should be used properly.
You should upsize the ridge, hips and valleys.
jja,
Believe it or not, the little blue book that comes with the Swanson Speed Square will give you almost all you need to know about building a cut roof. I keep one in my briefcase.
Good luck,
Ed. Williams
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Well folks I guess I am from the old school of cutting rafters.First thing is to find the run of the building yourgoing to cut the roof for--divided by 2 example 26ft ~2 =13 take your 13 feet and step off 13 steps on your framing square,, me myself it would be 61/2 steps cause i double my pitch on framing square subtract half of your ridge and hello you have your length..I have been doing this since 1975 and never had any trouble with any kind off roof. this will also serve as my pattern which if you have hip or valleys your jacks are already marked at each of your steps with the framing square remembering you add back your 3/4 inch you subtracterd for your ridge..back in my younger days and house where easier I could cut rafer jacks ridges and hip valleys for a 2000 sq ft house in couple hrs no problem..also if you do not know your pitch once again 1/2 run measure from top of joist to top of ridge[if rafter and joist are same size board] and you can figure your pitch..Of course now days I use my constuction master to do all the head work walt @wood concepts
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In FHB #115 there was an article about basic rafter framing. I'm going to use that approach on my job, but the article only showed a rafter jig for a 12-in-12 pitch. I don't know the pitch of the roof I'll be building, but if it's anything other than 12-in-12 I need to know how to modify the jig so that it'll work the same. Any hints or suggestions? (By the way, I'm a union carpenter in NYC, where we usually don't frame houses, in wood or in metal. That's why I'm somewhat in the dark on this topic.)