Don’t laugh. I need to build a large storage shed, 16×20. Ok, that might not be large to some of you, but in the back yard of a residential lot it is.
I don’t know how to frame the roof overhang on the gable end. Only needs to be 12″ or so. What supports the end rafters?
“When asked if you can do something, tell’em “Why certainly I can”, then get busy and find a way to do it.” T. Roosevelt
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Extend the ridge out, and the subfacsia, sheathing also. The barge rafter is supported by all three.
Otherwise, use lookouts.
Will your rake be boxed? In other words, will you do some kind of soffit finish, so you won't be looking up at the sheathing from below?
Yes, there will be a soffit. Why?
How do you do the lookouts? Do you notch the top of the rafter over the end wall?
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Lookouts work by dropping the height of the gable wallframe by the depth of the lookouts, say 3-1/2" for 2x4s. Lookout ends are nailed to the first inboard rafter, and the lookouts cantilever out 10-1/2", then the 2x barge rafter is facenailed to the lookout ends.
Where are you in the frameup process?
In a no-snowload area like yours, presuming your ridge goes long ways, and thus your rafters are spanning nomally 8 feet, you can simply have a barge rafter supported at the ridge extension, the subfascia bottom end, and by the 12" cantilever of the sheathing.
Your whole barge rafter subassembly for each gable end will look like a ladder, and the intermediate "rungs" will stiffen things up adequately.
Gonna start in a day or two. My old neighbor sold their house across the street and had a new one built 10 miles away. They're supposed to close today. They had the builder pour a concrete pad in the back yard for the storage building, and when they close I start on the shed.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
'Nemo me impune lacesset'No one will provoke me with impunity
You're down near TX hill country, right? Your only extra roof loading is the occasional rowdy drunk.
Forget about lookouts. All you need to do is something like I have sketched up here.
Shown is the corner of a building with 16 feet across its gable end, and a 4-pitch roof, framed with 2x6 rafters.
The end rafter sits on the wall end, and to it is nailed 10.5" lengths of 2x6, on 24-inch centers. The fly rafter is nailed to the end of the 2x6 subfascia, the ridgeboard extension, and to each of the 2x6 stubs. Sheathing holds it all together on the top.
What stinger said<Sheathing holds it all together on the top.>and And the soffit holds it all together on the bottom.Making for a very strudy overhang imho!
<lengths of 2x6, on 24-inch centers. >But on the other hand, I would use 2x4's instead of 2x6'sso that I could use a 2x4 barge rafter and a 1x6 fascia.Here is a 14'x20'shed w/12/12 2x6 rafters and 2x4 barge boardw/1x6 fascia
I saw at lowe. a book on garage. It was a complete plan on how to do all framing everything on a small garage about that size.
Like this maybe.