so you know in my thread, aw man….. really?, how my friend and I are rebuilding the top of our treehouse. We are doing the roof different (and beter) than before, and I never really learned how to make the rafter structure of a roof. I’m doing the birdsmouths, and the rafter tails, but along the ridge, I BELIVE you put a 2X, but can I also just use a 1X?
hmmmm, your post perplexs me
Replies
Heck, depending on how you build it, you can use a 0X -- the rafters can simply butt against each other. Depends on what your decking material is, among other things. What's the shape of the roof. Pics?
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Edited 3/3/2008 4:11 pm ET by MikeHennessy
right, I got distracted while writing it. ok, the structure is 4'X6' and there are 1' knee walls. the ceiling will meet at a vertex 3' above the floor. there will be 3/8" or 1/2" ply on top. on one side there is going to be a or doghouse dormer.
hmmmm, your post perplexs me
Edited 3/3/2008 4:27 pm ET by andyfew322
OK. Sounds kinda like an airborn pup tent. ;-)
That small, I think a 1x will do fine. If you're planning on shingles, you might wanna rethink that -- your head'll look like swiss cheese after an hour in the thing from all the roofing nails you'll be bumping into.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Waaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaay ahead of you. planning on putting 1"X1"on the 2X4 and then ply over the 1X1 so nobody pokes their head. this is just the loft. sleeping and storage. downstairs is for socializing.
next question. how do I flash th windows? some are sticing out ~ 1 1/2". there will be clappboard.
also when clappboarding, do I put the nails just above the exposure line?
hmmmm, your post perplexs me
Andy, I want to shake your dad's hand someday (yours too) for all the encouragement and teaching he has obviously bestowed upon you over the years.Flashing, start at hte bottom and work your way up and think like a drop of water.Nails preferably covered up by the course above. Sometimes you cant avoid visible face nails though.Pictures!
TFB (Bill)
well, my dad has given me a lot of encouragement, but now I have surpassed his building knowlage, that's why I turn to y'all for answers.
As for pics, it is hard because it is at a friend's house.
another question is how to lay out bird'smouths easily? I just guessed at it and it turned out ok.
hmmmm, your post perplexs me
Edited 3/3/2008 8:56 pm ET by andyfew322
ONe of the framer types might be able to explain birdsmouths here. I'd refer you to the little blue book that came with your swanson speed square that you have or are about to get. OR get somebody to show you hands on, easy as pie once you understand what and where the pivot point goes and what the marks on the square mean.TFB (Bill)
easy to do hard to explain.
prezactlyTFB (Bill)
andy, the easiest way to do is for you to read a framing book and then ask specific questions
another question is how to lay out bird'smouths easily? I just guessed at it and it turned out ok.
You have to know the angle of the rafter - which is usually given as a ratio of rise:run, for example, 5:12 is a common one around here. So the run of the seat cut will usually be what is optimal for sitting on the top plate, and the rise of the bird's mouth will be in that same ratio, 5:12.
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View Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles Greene...[Message truncated]
Edited 3/4/2008 1:13 am by Huck
the bird's mouth will be laid out at the same angle (or ratio) as the ridge cut.
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View ImageView Image “Good work costs much more than poor imitation or factory product” – Charles GreeneCaliforniaRemodelingContractor.com
thank you a lot
hmmmm, your post perplexs me
Windows are usually mounted so the outside edge is flush with the level of the sheathing. You flash the rough opening before the windows go in with Vycor, or a similar product to protect the building (as opposed to the windows). In your case, since the windows are already in, you'll have a problem doing that. You can still apply Vycor on the sheathing up to the windows and that's what I'd probably do in your case. (However, even without a perfect job, this treehouse will probably outlast your use of it. LOL) And, since your windows are 1-1/2" proud, you'll have to deal with that as well.
Unless you can mill up some custome trim molding, I'd probably just use brick molding or some 2X2 to case the windows. I'd use some exterior glue and nails to fasten this to the side (as opposed to the front) of the window where it juts out, so it's tight and weatherproof. (You could apply some Vycor to the sheathing first if you want.) Also nail the trim to the sheathing.
The most important flashing you'll install is the head flashing. That's a piece of aluminum flashing that is sort of "Z" shaped. It covers the top trim piece like a small roof, overhanging a bit in the front and going up the wall a few inches. The siding is applied over this so no water can get to the window/wall joint.
You can see installation and flashing details at pretty much any window mfgr's web site. Here's an example from Anderson: http://tinyurl.com/yqtvr5 (Look at the "Basic Unit Installation guide pdf.)
You install siding by trimming it to about 1/8" short of the adjacent trim. Caulk this joint. Siding can be face nailed or blind nailed. I assume you'll be using wood. If face nailed, the nails go just above the top of the siding course below. If blind nailed, the nails go about 1/4" above where the bottom of the next row above will sit, so they are just covered a bit. You'll want to use galvanized siding nails either way, but if you're blind nailing, roofing nails might work. You just need to be careful not to split the siding with the roofing nails, since siding nails are thinner and don't tend to split the siding as easily. Either way, you don't want to have any nail go through more than one piece of siding -- that means if you're face nailing, the nail should be *above* the lower course. If you nail through both courses, the siding will tend to split as it expands and contracts since it'll be constrained by two rows of nails, one high and one low.
Don't know a good web source for wooden clapboard installation, but you can look at the instructions at the Hardi siding site for some good general info. http://tinyurl.com/32wltx (Look at the Installation Instructions pdf.)
Hope that helps. We'd still like pics, even if you have to go into stealth mode to get pics in your friend's yard. ;-)
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
PS: TWO STORY treehouse? Is there a Jacuzzi too? ;-)
Edited 3/4/2008 8:19 am ET by MikeHennessy
there is a creek and a comuter rail ;)
thanks for all of that
hmmmm, your post perplexs me
Edited 3/4/2008 3:25 pm ET by andyfew322
Did you have an enginner sign off on the plans? Get a permit?
Are ya gonna vent it or not? LOL...
Sounds like fun, and a 1x sounds fine, go one size up from your rafter size tho.
Like a 2x4 rafter gets a 1x6 ridge...it looks more perfessonal. Sometimes.
BTW, better hurry up, weather headed your way!
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
Edited 3/3/2008 5:40 pm ET by Sphere
I can't help with the roof, but keep the girls out. They are nothing but trouble. Alltho they do look cute.
we did have feminine infiltration before we got the door up. It was "cathrine" you know how I know? she scratched her name in a 2x4
hmmmm, your post perplexs me
I've got a similar raised playhouse - 8'x 8'What I did is put a 12/12 pitch roof on it. I screwed the tops of the 2 x 4 rafters together at a right angle with lag screws - easy to do on the ground.
I'd go for a 2X, just to have the extra "beef" for nailing.
But it doesn't really make any difference on something that small.
Yes. Theoretically speaking, you don't really need a ridge either. My first garage had 2x4 rafters with a 1x6 ridge. The house was built in the 40's and the garage is still standing and solid.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07