Basketball net installation footing help
Hello,
I realize the title makes it seems that this question isn’t for this forum, but I’m not here where else to turn since I’ve reviewed the manual and quite a few resources on-line and I haven’t got a definitive answer.
I am installing a fairly large (60″ wide) tempered glass basketball system. It has a 4″ square powder coated pole. The footing they suggest is a 24″x24″ deep sonotube and install the net.
I live near Detroit, MI (on the Canadian side) and generally, footings needs to be set at least at 42″ to be below the frost line. I would have thought that I should dig that deep, but they suggest only 24″ deep. Am I missing something????
Also, assuming I have to use a 42″ deep hole, I was looking around and some people say that a square footing is actually a better idea that the sonotube since it will be more sturdy over time and less suspectible to movement over time. Does this make sense? If it does, then I was thinking of making a 18″ square footing and going 42″ deep (assuming I should go below the frost line). Do anyone have any thoughts on which one would be better?
Lastly, assuming that there is no difference, if I can hire someone to auger the hole, I am going to do the 24″ sonotube, 42″ deep. When I do the quick math on that, I think I’ll need b/w 25 – 28 40 lb bags of pre-mixed cement. I don’t have a mixer, so I’ll be mixing it in my wheelbarrow. Is there an issue of mixing this many bags since everything will cure at different times since I can only go so fast and I will likely run out of steam. Should I be concerned about this?
Lastly, some people seem to think I can just dump the ready-mix cement in the hole, run the hose on it until is liquidy, tamp it down to get rid of the airpockets and no mixing required. I’ve never done this, but is this a possibility? If so, then this is likely the answer to my previous concern about being able to mix that many bags in sufficient time.
Maybe I’m making things too complicated since even if the net were to “frost heave”, this wouldn’t be a huge deal since it’s not like it holding up a deck or a porch or anything. I see a ton of basketball nets out there, so perhaps I am making things too complicated / asking too many questions, but I would appreciate anyone’s thoughts, suggestions for this project.
Thanks in advance for your help!
Replies
Im no engineer, but if it were my hoop i'd dig a hole (no sonotube needed) about 20" diameter and to the frost point.
Sure it would be best to pour the concrete all at once, but like you said, its not holding up much. Of course i tend to lay it up, not slam it down!! seems like it wouldnt be a big deal if you pooped out and finished it the next day.
Around here there is a company called freshcrete. They have a truck that mixes on site and you pay for only what you use. As a contractor i used to mix 25 bag pours by hand..but no more. These guys cost only slightly more than buying bags and the pour is done in 10 minutes....no sore back or trips to the lumber yard.
good luck
It does not matter the shape or size, if you are not below the frost line the base will heave. The base they specify is sufficient weight to hold the whole system and take the shaking it will endure, so you should use at least that much concrete, though it could be distributed somewhat differently and still support the load.
Here's what I'd do. Dig a 30" squareish or round hole 6" deeper than the frost depth. Use an 18" to 24" diameter sonotube, suspending it so the bottom of the tube is at the frost depth. Install whatever pipe holds the net, of course. Pour the whole thing in one pour. What you'll have is a round column that goes to the frost depth then flares out. Having it flare below the frost depth is very good practice to keep the base from heaving.
Don't forget if the base is on an area that gets cleared of snow the frost will go somewhat deeper.
I would not do the mixing in the hole. That makes for very weak concrete. It would be ok for a mailbox or fence post, but for a basketball net with the heavy glass top and all the pounding and shaking (and running into the pole) the weakened concrete may crack and let the pole loose.
If you can afford a high end backboard you can afford to install it well.
Of course, where you are you'll need metric concrete.
I put up a similar hoop last year. I did use the sonotube... I can't remember what size right now, it wasn't 24" though, maybe 16" or 12". I went below frost (42"), I also cut some rebar to drop in the hole vertically since the anchor bolts they supplied were only 12" or so. I used high strength Quickcrete. It's pretty easy to mix on site in a wheel barrow. The reason for a square hole is to resist twisting of the pole due to the forces exerted on it when playing b-ball. I can see if someone is dunking on it maybe... Once the hole is dug it's all pretty easy.
For what you are doing it makes sense to do it real well. So if someone suggests a better way that would be stonger go for it! Within reason of coarse.
Why? Because it is only one hole and you will know it is strong.
If you are doing a lot of holes then you start thinking about how to lower the cost per hole. It makes more sense to lower costs when there are alot of units. A lot of units can get exspensive.
Will Rogers