Replies

1. 
   Framer | Jan 20, 2006 07:40pm | #1

   Just curious as to why a 4-1/2" hole in a rim joist is unacceptable?

   Joe Carola

   
   

   ---

   Edited 1/20/2006 11:52 am ET by Framer

1. 
   edward3 | Jan 20, 2006 11:06pm | #3

   Somewhere along the road, I picked up this rule of thumb that holes in joists aren't supposed to exceed 1/3 the joist. I am looking to be told otherwise.

1. 
   pickings | Jan 20, 2006 11:42pm | #4

   Well then....here goes.

   Your rule of thumb is correct........for joists that are clear spanning between beams, walls etc.

   The hole cutting rule does not apply to rim joists since they rest CONTINUOUSLY on an exterior wall. They do not carry weight like a regular joist, their main purpose is to align and hold vertical the joists that are fixed to them, and provide a solid continuous nailer for the subfloor, and wall plate above.

   Hope this helps.

   BTW, there are 3" venting kits out there, look around.

1. 
   FR | Jan 25, 2006 11:05pm | #8

   Everyone, 

   While you're on this issue, I thought I would piggyback my question.   I have the same issue with a range hood that requires a 7 inch round or 3.5 x 10 rectangular duct.   I was going to run it between the joists in the kitchen ceiling and out the exterior wall, but I would have to put a big hole in the rim joist.    As an alternative,  I was going to run it along the top of the cabinets and out the wall below the rim joist.   I would hide the duct with a built up crown on the cabinets.   I just want to confirm that a hole that size in the rim joist is a non-starter.

   Thanks. 

   Frank R.

1. 
   Piffin | Jan 25, 2006 11:50pm | #9

   confirmed 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   FR | Jan 26, 2006 12:03am | #10

   Thanks.  

   Frank R.

3. 
   Framer | Jan 26, 2006 01:22am | #13

   Mike Hennessy brought up something about a stud being in the middle of the bay which it shouldn't but with that said you might want to make sure that there's no solid posts or something above like a beam that's has solid posts or multiple 2x's holding it up.If it was framed right you would see solid blocking there in between the joists but sometimes there's not. Try to check before you cut a 10" hole out of the box.Joe Carola

4. 
   FrankR | Jan 26, 2006 06:09am | #14

   Thanks Joe.   This will be part of a kitchen remodel so I will have that wall down to the studs and I can see what is there before I start cutting a hole in the sheathing.

   Frank R.

2. 
   jeffwoodwork | Jan 20, 2006 07:47pm | #2

   Should be fine , just add some extra blocking there if you are concerned.

   Jeff

3. 
   Piffin | Jan 21, 2006 12:07am | #5

   Nothing unacceptable about that in my book.

    

    

   Welcome to the
   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
   Excellence is its own reward!

4. 
   edward3 | Jan 23, 2006 06:11am | #6

   Thanks everybody, Sometimes I hesitate when it comes to chomping holes in a house. Plumbers ( no offense ) seem to be more comfortable with "aerating" structural timbers, If this was a 100 year old balloon frame of old growth, I would have complete confidence in the structure, but this house is 5-months old, and oh the stories I could tell. eg., Romex, ( a 50 amp feed to the kitchen ) in the basement ceiling, that was missing five feet of outer jacket, and wrapped with more electrical tape than was probably used in the entire development. I had the couple bring in an electrician to unwrap and OK the line. I hope the rough-in "electrician" saved a lot of money, but I doubt it justified chancing the safety of the owners and their 4 children ( the oldest is six )

1. 
   FR | Jan 23, 2006 04:24pm | #7

   Everyone, 

   While you're on this issue, I thought I would piggyback my question.   I have the same issue with a range hood that requires a 7 inch round or 3.5 x 10 rectangular duct.   I was going to run it between the joists in the kitchen ceiling and out the exterior wall, but I would have to put a big hole in the rim joist.    As an alternative,  I was going to run it along the top of the cabinets and out the wall below the rim joist.   I would hide the duct with a built up crown on the cabinets.   I just want to confirm that a hole that size in the rim joist is a non-starter.

   Thanks. 

   Frank R.

2. 
   MikeHennessy | Jan 26, 2006 12:13am | #11

   You may want to position your hole so it is not directly under a stud. Probably no big deal either way, but still, it's nice to have support under supporting members!

   Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA

1. 
   Framer | Jan 26, 2006 01:15am | #12

   "ou may want to position your hole so it is not directly under a stud. Probably no big deal either way, but still, it's nice to have support under supporting members!"The studs should be stacked on top of the joists not in the middle. If the joists are 24" centers and the studs are 16" centers than that's a different story.Or he has a point load from some beam above.Joe Carola