hi everyone,
my wife and i are redoing our bathroom and i have a few questions for the experts out there….
1. easiest way to take out a cast iron tub?
2. how to bridge where my hardi backer ends and my greenboard starts? also if i have an outside corner where one side is hardi backer and the other greenboard…how do i finish this?
3. anyone ever put laminate floor directly over tile? we have a strong old style wet bed floor and instead of tearinf it up im thinking of going over top?any thoughts?
thanks…all input is appreciated
Replies
1: Sledge hammer, long pants & sleeves, some good ear plugs and serious eye protection. (Lots of really sharp shrapnel.)
2: Outside corners, I usually just run a DW corner bead over the corner and tile up to it with a bullnose.
3: Floating floor? Should work fine over the foam underlayment. I'd think twice about using this in a bath, tho'.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Everything fits, until you put glue on it.
thanks alot...i hear the sledgehammer makes quick work just messy and loud
so you run the cornerbead over the hardibacker as well??and tile over it?
i keep hearing differing opinions on the flooring...some people say laminate is great if you silicone the edges and other say not to use it? the only plus would be that under it is solid tile so if water does get under it it wont rot the subfloor..or so my plan goes...lol
"so you run the cornerbead over the hardibacker as well??and tile over it?"
Yes. I mud the DW leg, but not the leg on the backer. That'll get covered by thinset anyway.Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PAEverything fits, until you put glue on it.
1. easiest way to take out a cast iron tub
sledge hammer...
mind the flying shards... we safety gear..
2. how to bridge where my hardi backer ends and my greenboard starts?
mesh tape and WR mud..
if i have an outside corner where one side is hardi backer and the other greenboard...how do i finish this?
conventional DW corner bead...
3. anyone ever put laminate floor directly over tile?
not me..
laminate floor and water do not get along very well...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Some of them are made for wet areas. The Formica brand display at the yard here has had water on it for a couple years now.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
never saw that around here...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Throw a wet blanket over the tub before you start pounding.
You didn't mention if the tub is free standing (like a clawfoot tub) or built in. If it's the former the easiest way is to give it away. Lot's of people looking for them, will come and take it away for free. If it's an especially nice one they might even pay you something for it.
About the backer/drywall joint, tape and/or cornerbead as usual. Only difference is I would use the original Durobond for anything in a wet area.
I wouldn't use laminate flooring in a bathroom, better to go with tile.
~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.net
See my work at TedsCarpentry.com
I've never been able to crack one w/ a sledge. The old steel sometimes has been happier to take out the plaster wall its nested in than come loose from itself in my dreary bathroom experiences. I cut them in half w/ a diamond blade and sawzall....might not be tools in your arsenal though. Last one took me about 20 minutes to the curb. Don't know if it's the smartest way but it makes me happy. I cut the lip of the drain and peel it off before I pull out that half. eye/hearing protection same absolute must. Just a back-up option if the sledge doesn't work out too well. Maybe I'm just a sissy...
I have gone over the old tile but I sand it quickly and level it off w/ a self-leveling mix first. Easy and provides a great smooth surface. Same as the others... laminate is not my first option. I used those resilient vinyl planks that self-adhere to each other in my own bath. Kept the height down, 25 yr warranty (whatever that does) and is waterproof. However, you have to get past the "resilient vinyl" and decide if you like the look... it is easy to install and only adheres to itself ("floating" floor).
"The old steel sometimes has been happier ..."but he is asking about cast iron, not steel. Cast will break fairly easy with a sledge hammer. Steel just makes noise talking back at the teacher.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
That is true.
I was thinking of how I have shown up at several bathroom remodels having been informed that the tub was cast... and it sure talked back.
I was figuring that most people w/ one or two tubs in their house don't always know...
just wanted to thank everyone for their input...i should be starting in a week or two....here goes nothing..lol
wife still wants wood look in the bath....nto sure what to do about that
As others have noted.....
Kill the tub with a heavy sledge hammer. It will take a few of your best swings before it starts to crack. But once the crack starts, you're on the way. Also as noted -- hearing protection is an absolute must, as is eye/face protection.
When it's in chards, use a shovel. The chards are amazingly sharp, and WILL cut you.
Tape the joints between hardie and rock; corenerbead the corners.
And be sure you buy a laminate that is made from polymers, and not from MDF. The MDF (most of the laminates are made from wood dust) products will last about a month in a bathroom.
The polymer versions -- like that mentioned by Piffin -- are impervious to water.