I’m in the midst of remodeling my bathroom and due to a change in plans I unexpectedly need a bathroom vanity. I’ve contacted a few local cabinet makers but the lead time to have a cabinet made is longer than I’d like. Are there any quality on-line stores where I could order the components and assemble the cabinets myself? I’m looking for a place to order doors, drawers and face frames ( I can build the boxes myself). Walzcraft has what I need but they only deal with contractors. I’m unable to find anyone who will make face frames ( beside Walzcraft).
Any suggestions?
Thanks,
Matt
Replies
http://www.scherrs.com/
Why not take the opportunity to build the face frames as well?
I may have to. It's mainly a matter of time (not enough of it).
Thanks for the link to scherrs, but I don't think they make face frames ( or am I missing the link?)thanksMatt
Not really sure if they do face frames or not so you probably are not missing a link., sorry. Buy the doors from them and then find the time to make the face frames after you make the boxes :)TFB (Bill)
I'd be surprised if you find kit face frames. They only take about 5 minutes to make.
Rip the stock, cut to length, add a couple of pocket screws at the corners. Done.
Depending on the vanity design, you may even get away without using pocket screws. Just fasten the parts directly to the cab front.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
What's the basic width for the rails and stiles of a face frame cabinet? Walzcraft list 1 1/2" as the basic width for their face frames. I have a Taunton book on furniture design and it list 1 3/4" as the the starting width for rails and stiles with partition pieces at 1 1/4", and the top rail at 2 1/4". What width are most face frames? Are all the pieces the same?ThanksMatt
Matt
I use the 1 1/2" for my normal FF material width.
I think you'll see thats pretty common.
Doug
1-1/2" is pretty common, but this is not set in stone. For example, you might want to use wider rails on the bottom if you are planning on undercab lighting.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Well, looks like I'll be making the frames myself. The cabinet is for a bathroom vanity. What height (from floor to counter top) are they usually? I've mocked it up and I'm looking at 33". Sound OK?
How thick is the counter top? I'd like to use marble and I've seen everything from 3/4" to 1 1/2" mentioned for thickness.
Also, any door, drawer manufactures that anyone likes?Thanks again,Matt
Stone (as opposed to fake stone) thickness is usually in centimeters. A granite kitchen counter generally being, IIRC, 3cm. thick. Best plan is to pick out some stone you like and go with what's available.
Vanity height is at your own discretion, especially if you are making it yourself. 33" should be fine. Things you need to look out for: Watch your drain rough-in height -- you can make your sink higher easier than lower if you're dealing with an existing rough-in. If you are using stone, you'll probably be having it cut by a fabricator. Purchase both your sink and your fixture and take it the the fabricator. Avoids those "DOH!" moments later and they can include fabricating the mounting while they're cutting the stone. You may also want to figure in the sink/fixture layout when you are planning on your cab depth. (And don't forget to allow for the counter overhang.) (DAMHIKT.) The sink depth can also affect drain planning -- an extra-deep sink can send you back to the drawing boards on your rough-ins as well.
The order I usually do this in is: 1) Purchase a sink and fixture. 2) Take them to the stone yard and pick out some stone, and figure the sink/fixture layout with the fabricator's input. Don't forget to plan on a backsplash and side splashes if you want 'em. Note the measurement for the drop from the bottom of the counter to the bottom of the sink. Order the stone. 3) From the layout you have now planned, figure your cab width & depth. 4) Figure cab height based on preference and drain rough-in. (This is where you need the figure for the drop of the sink.) 5) Build and set the cab while the stone is being fabricated. 6) Pick up the stone, drop it and hook up the plumbing. Done.
Door/drawer mfgrs? Dunno. I make 'em myself.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Thanks Mike.The plumbings being moved so rough-in shouldn't be a problem.Anyone have an idea what a marble counter top goes for? I'm looking for a white (carrera?) marble - 21" by 53". I've just started looking for a dealer so I have no idea what this cost. Any opinions on poplar vs pine for the frame (it's being painted). One last question. I'm trying to determine the orientation of the tub. If I keep the drain on the left ( see picture ) I have to use an acrylic tub (it's a whirlpool fyi). If I move the drain to the right I can use cast iron. I'd rather use cast iron but I don't like the drain on the right. It just "feels" wrong. Opinions?Thanks,Matt
Edited 1/16/2008 2:57 pm ET by mattt19
Mike
I think WalzCraft carries kit FF, its pretty easy to make so I've never considered buying it out but I do think I have seen it in their catalog.
Doug
My first concern would be that depending on materials, finish etc that the face frames would match everything else precisely enough.
If you have the experience and equipment to build the boxes and such can't take much to make the face frames. A Kreg jig and?
Just my .02...
PaulB
I do cabinet work, but don't really make much of the stuff myself. I outsource all that's needed as components, buying carcases from a CNC shop, fronts from Walzcraft, Conestoga, and Keystone, and hardware and specialties from jobbers to the trade.
One of these guys may be of help to you. They are both part of the Thermwood CNC production sharing network, which means they cut parts for folks like me. They may be willing to take your specs and make your boxes, then refer you to the right sources for your other stuff.
Brian Shannon, Custom Wood N Cabinets, 805-344-4805
Matt Wagoner, CNC Direct, 951-712-1394
The Thermwood eCabinets software is flexible enough to produce any type of construction imaginable, so you can have it your way. My preference is for frameless construction.
Here is an image of two large bathroom vanities, one at 60 inch width, the other at 48. Your round edge shelf arrangement would just be another module.