*
Breaktimers,
I have a situation I need to tackle this summer and need your input.
I have a 2nd floor bathroom which has a serious moisture problem. Although there is a window in this bathroom, the painted ceiling is peeling badly,
and the drywall joints are starting to come undone. It appears I need to install a bathroom vent fan. The roof above the bathroom is of very low slope (about 1 in 12). The distance from the bathroom ceiling to the top of the roof is about 12-18″, so it appears to be a straightforward job. Did a search here for fans and read some positive comments on the Panasonic units-I’m looking for a good quality, quiet fan. It appears these units fit the bill. Now, Here’s the questions:
1. The roof is not an EPDM roof nor is it roll roofing. It possibly may be hot mop/TAR (?) since there are no visible splices, it’s black (weathered), and contains many small cracks. What type of flashings/materials should I apply around the vent pipe?
2. How tall should the vent pipe be and what material should I use for the pipe?
BTW, The location is NE Ohio
Thanks – Jim
Replies
*
Jim
You can get through the wall fans.
*Jim, I agee with Jim, Go through the wall if you can. also use a timer type switch so it will continue to run after the user has finished. Luck
*Jim , You can exit threw the roof very safely and feel secure by just following some good directions. First of all there are various types of roof kits for this application that come to mind. But most are geared for better/steeper slopes. First of all make sure you use a baffle, so you dont lose any heat when its not in use. Second, pvc for exterior and the flexable dryer pipe for interior is fine with an elbow downward of coarse once outside. and 2 foot off the roof is fine. You could start by installing the pipe and using 100% silicone around its base, go ahead and use the whole tube if you want you wont see it afterwards. Then install a standard roof boot around the pipe. Now the rest is up to you , you could either Install a piece of Modified Bitmen torch down, cut to fit about 1' past all seams and for insurance, Tar and Mesh when your finished. that's three lines of defence. No way that leaks if done right. Also some aluminium coating after a day or two of curing would do wonders for longevity. Or you could skip the M.B. and just two layers of tar and mesh with the aluminium coat would be fine. Use primers made for the products.You will be fine. As for location sooner it gets out the better is always my 1st choice when dealing with these vents. By the way get your whole roof coated with the same type of roof coating its a must if you want it to last. First find out if the roof is in good shape or you will just be wasting your money. It sounds like its "getting there". Do you know how old it is?
*I've got even money this leaks if you go thru the roof. Odds a little better if you re-roof the whole roof. Silicone, tar, amateur torch down.....all equals patch job....and patch jobs don't cut it on a flat roof. Me, I'd go thru a wall. Jeff
*Wow, in 15 yrs I have seen god only knows how many things come threw my flat roofs. I wish every job I worked on was built by you, make my job easier. Silicone was just for hell of it. Rest is Industry standard. Amateur Torch Down "15 yr product".
*I have installed at least 4000 pipes in this manner and have had no problems as long as proper coatings and primers are used, maybe Mr Buck has a problem with going out the roof, but its not a shared feeling for the millions of commercial roofs out there today. I am not here to call anyone into a war of words, but when a product with a good track record which is widley excepted is called amateur I must speak my mind. No disrespect intended to Mr Buck. Thanks Ron. PS> If going out a wall is just as close and easy enough, by all means do so, its a safer and easier job dont get me wrong, but if your using 15' or more of tube to get this done simply because we dont know the industry standards for the job then ask someone who does know as Mr Jim T. has done.
*Jim,If you go though the roof, hire Ron. Or someone with his experience.Luck
*Thanks for all replies.Going through a wall is definitely an option which I did not think of. Seeing how the current roof is pretty old, I won't have to mess with it and risk leaks. Of course, what I'd like to do is strip the roof, sheathing, and then add new rafters to increase the pitch to about a 2 or 3 in 12. If I can get it to a 3, I imagine I can use shingles with maybe Ice & Water underneath for insurance. It's a pretty small area, about 15' x 15'.Thanks again-appreciate the input.
*If that is an option, you most likely can just leave the flat roof the way it is with little prep. work and install a gable roof right over the top, but go to at least a 5/12 pitch. Most Ice/Water manufacture's don't suggest using more than 9' from eaves with the product.
*Going through a wall is usually better, but no guarantee against leaks. If you have an overhang and can place the vent high, that'll protect it somewhat from falling rain. The bigger the overhang and the higher the vent, the better it'll be protected from wind driven rain. But Murphy's law applies very strictly to anything involving leaks.-- J.S.
*Well in my own self serving way I will venture an opinion that you have 2 problems. The vent and the roof.1) run the vent out the sidewall.2)hire me to install a seamless rubber roof on your small 15X15 roof. I am in AKRON,and your roof is small,so how much could it all cost?PS we love doing those small rubber roofs,and rubber is definitely the material prefered for this situation.How is that for a blatant,self-serving plug?good Luck All,Stephen
*"Way to go" Stephen, you forgot to draw your logo. If you mean epdm or something like it, thats a great product, one peice, no seams on this job would be great. Good Luck all. Ron
*Ron,I love seamless rubber(epdm).I am always willing to waste large pieces of it to insure that the job stays "seamless". Even on an "L" shaped roof where a short splice would save a lot of material I will waste the cut-out to maintain the "seamless" benefits.Also ,the newer water based adhesives are great for eliminating wrinkles and minimizing bubbles.this roof sounds like it probably has one wsf penetration so a witches hat would probably need to be spliced in anyway.BTW,I only wish I was smart enough to post my logo here ,but with my dumb roofers brain it is a challenge to even remember my password to log on here.It's good to see another roofer here ,although most of these guys are ok even though most of them are carpenters.They haven't thrown me out yet,so I imagine they will let you hang around also.( we probably help them meet some quota)good Luck All,Stephen
*
Breaktimers,
I have a situation I need to tackle this summer and need your input.
I have a 2nd floor bathroom which has a serious moisture problem. Although there is a window in this bathroom, the painted ceiling is peeling badly,
and the drywall joints are starting to come undone. It appears I need to install a bathroom vent fan. The roof above the bathroom is of very low slope (about 1 in 12). The distance from the bathroom ceiling to the top of the roof is about 12-18", so it appears to be a straightforward job. Did a search here for fans and read some positive comments on the Panasonic units-I'm looking for a good quality, quiet fan. It appears these units fit the bill. Now, Here's the questions:
1. The roof is not an EPDM roof nor is it roll roofing. It possibly may be hot mop/TAR (?) since there are no visible splices, it's black (weathered), and contains many small cracks. What type of flashings/materials should I apply around the vent pipe?
2. How tall should the vent pipe be and what material should I use for the pipe?
BTW, The location is NE Ohio
Thanks - Jim