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I an article (last year I think) the author made his own flat beaded casing from MDF. I like the look of flat casing vs the same old colonial casing, and was going to use this style. I was going to rip the stock from MDF sheets and use my Porter Cable router/table for the beading. Anyone ever try this? Should I cut a relief on the side casing? The head casing and apron will have exposed ends.
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My biggest concern would be the weakness of the beading...
MDF can tend to chip or have chunks break off (vs wood simply denting) if the beading is in an area subject to getting knocked around. High-use door casings, windows around the kitchen table (getting knocked by chairs, etc). There are casing applications that would be "safe," I'm just throwing those ideas out as something to consider.
The MDF just doesn't have the inherent strength that the cellulose structure lends to wood.
It can work, but do consider the potential for abuse...and failure.
*I made over 100 feet of casing just as you described for window, door, and baseboard on a screened in porch a few years ago-so far mostly ok, but Mongo raises some valid concerns. I dropped a chisel and chipped off part of one bead. Then there was the time the person I did this for left the window open and some of it got wet (not backprimed-big mistake) so I replaced that. I routed a relief on the backside of the casing used to straddle the wall studs between the windows.The other drawbacks of working with MDF (dust, etc) are well documented in the archives.If you decide to go this route consider making some spare lengths.
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thanks, what did you use to mill the casing Rick?
*thanks, what did you use to mill the casing Rick?
*thanks, what did you use to mill the casing Rick?
*thanks, what did you use to mill the casing Rick?
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Joe,
Jittery fingers...a little less caffeine!
Thought I'd jump in...I do all MDF milling with carbide bits. Throws up a lot of dust, so save your lungs and eyes with dust removal as Rick alluded to.
When priming/painting, I've had a few large milled edges (usually just with raised panels) get a bit bumpy from uneven coating absorption...kind of like raising the grain on wood. I now treat these milled areas with a coating of paste pore filler. Let dry, then sand, prime, and paint. Gives a much better surface for paint. Not a procedure, just a technique...
You could relieve (similar to making a shallow cove) the back side of the casing by running your flat casing across your table saw blade on an angle.
Regarding the "delicate" beading...obviously, a 3/8ths or 1/2-inch bead would have more strength than a 1/4" bead...I'd be very concerned with the latter, less so with the larger two.
*Joe:I used an Amana carbide bit with a DeWalt router in a table. Like Mongo said wear some good eye, ear, and brething protection.He has probably been at this much longer than I so both of us can benefit from his finishing techniques. I've read about cutting coves on the tablesaw but have not tried it yet.
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I an article (last year I think) the author made his own flat beaded casing from MDF. I like the look of flat casing vs the same old colonial casing, and was going to use this style. I was going to rip the stock from MDF sheets and use my Porter Cable router/table for the beading. Anyone ever try this? Should I cut a relief on the side casing? The head casing and apron will have exposed ends.