We just finished some brick barell ceilings in central texas, bent 1/2 inch drywall to a 31 3/4″ radius, took about 5 minutes a sheet to bend. attached pictures.
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so, attach already
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
patience, i got side tracked
a couple more, a brick dome and the brick barells
In the picture dsc00347 right behind the man, it looks like someone cut over half of a roof brace out to get the metal arch in. Shoot the @$$!!! I can't stand it when some sub thinks they can cut or remove braces just to make their life easier. Do they think we enjoy putting them in?
Something about looking UP at bricks makes me very uneasy.
you can wear your hard hat if you want, but they stay very nicely. they are set with mastic and you have to tear-up the drywall to get them down.
I work on old (100+ year old) buildings, and I assume that all adhesives fail eventually. Most plywood and OSB products have a 20 year guarantee. Not nearly long enough, in my book, especially when used overhead and exposed to roof/attic temperatures. But that's just me. I rely on the nails and screws to keep things up there, after the adhesives fail.
There is -- or at least was -- a product called RealBrick (http://www.realbrick.com) that's actual clay brick, fired but VERY thin and light. I might try that overhead. I've seen it, but never used it myself. The web site is inactive, at the moment.
I had not heard of Realbrick. But back in the 70's, when everybody wanted that Brady Bunch look, you could buy "Z-Brick". As you described, it is real brick, just thinner.
Z-Brick is still in business. I was able to order it in case-lots from the local Ace hardware store. I learned by contacting the Z-Brick company that Ace is the only authorized distributor.
Unless you're the lead dog, the view just never changes.
Where in Texas is that project?Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Salado texas, near temple.
they are real clay brick, slices that are any where from 3/8 to 5/8 of an inch thick, they are all set tight to each other so all would have to fail in order to be able to fall. they each form an actual arch and are bound up at the bottoms of the arches.
Living in earthquake country, I don't care how good the glue is - still makes me nervous having masonry over my head! Looks great though - glad it works in Texas, and thanks for sharing.
So how do you do the brick dome? Is it mortared as they go up ,or glued and pointed later?
Cool stuff , What you been doing working a bunch ? haent seen you here for a spell.
Looks to me like you were not using a drywall gun or did you have that round screw stopper on the portable gun? be careful, you break the paper of the rock and those screws don't hold. Next time use heavy drywall glue on the steel and a minimum amount of screws..that way the integrity of the curve remains.
Were waitinnnnng!
I get inspired every time I see your newest creations.Noticed in the pictures you are using a metal track. Is this track something you are bending yourself, or buying from fast arch of Texas? I've done some domes, groin vaults, and a wooden bell, but it is time consuming in wood, the metal could be an easier option.Thanks for taking the time to post the pictures Greg in Connecticut
greg; I am bending the metal studs myself, the ones for the barells were 20 guage 3 5/ 8" studs. They are great for curved work but dont do well for groin vaults.
Gonna be a brick lampshade?
Joe H
smokestack for a brick choo-choo..
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Fantastic.
What are you using to crimp/bend the metal studs, and do you use a template or something to get a consistent radius?
I have a track bender, about a 4500.00 tool with all of the extras. It is pretty consistent, and I adjust to a template after the bending process.