Volute on curved railing. Ok I read all my fine homebuilding working with standard railing parts, also the excellent article on building a curved railing of a few years ago. Got my rake set, railing set, follows the curve. But my railing has a bit of a twist to it, and it is not level. I can get the twist out of it, but the fact that the outside radius of the volute is low (1/4 to 3/8″) looks bad. (just to be clear, this “low point” I’m talking about is in line with the line of the railing.) Does this mean I have my angle on the upriser of the volute off and I need to remove it and buy a new one and take less off the upriser? (I’m starting to call the dead stair parts/railing parts, “stair building tuition). Also how much can I rely on the ballisters underneath the volute to take the twist out of the railing.
Thanks
GKecon
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
A standardized approach, quick-to-install hardware, and a simplified design make building custom casework cost-effective.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Replies
The cut you made at the up easing should be a "square cut in relation to the abutting piece...so you could roughly check your cut in air with a framing square and know if your cut is in the right ballpark...clear as mud?
The balusters will take some of the twist out but it sounds like there's
another issue...is the cut on the upeasing square(the other way now) If
it's a degree or 2 out,it could account for the twist...
Hope this helps...coffman has an excellent manual for rails that I would
recommend...I did my rail apprenticeship in the early 90's...school of hard knocks
silver
Hi Silver,
a few weeks ago on the way to the big box for the 3rd time that day it hit me that the cuts always have to be square, no miters. So I think I got it pretty close to square. So if the valute is "falling off" level, then I took too much off the upease right? So back to the bigbox, drop another $50 in stairbuilding tuition and try with another valute/upease and take a little less off.Sound right?
The twist is probably the result of the forces on the bending rail as I'm gluing it up on the jigs for the bending rail. (I dont think its my cut). I guess it must have tourqued when I set it (I did it by myself, so not alot of extra hands to go around). I can remove the twist by hand (which lifts the rail abit off the treads in the middle of the staircase).
a few weeks ago on the way to the big box for the 3rd time that day it hit me that the cuts always have to be square, no miters. So I think I got it pretty close to square. So if the valute is "falling off" level, then I took too much off the upease right? So back to the bigbox, drop another $50 in stairbuilding tuition and try with another valute/upease and take a little less off.Sometimes you can cheat and take a hair off the curving section or off the upeasing-or even bisect your error with a hair off both.If you cut a new one, I'm assuming you're using a pitch block...when you mark the cut,put a light directly behind the easing and mark both points where it just touches the pitch block-the cut is in the center of those 2 marks...sounds like you have the twist under control...
good luck
silver
I hate touching the railing once I got it in decent trim....$50 tuition is low risk strategy. Is my interpretation of the problem correct, that is I took too much off the up ease and need to back off a bit?
Thanks again.
Buy the new part, put in position,should be able to mark with square off curved rail...compare with previous cut part and double check layout with pitch blockif verified- cut on line, life is wonderful againor add 1/8 fudge factor parallel to layout line and cut & try...it sounds like you have so much loosey goosey, it's hard to tell what is going on...in that case I always whittle away until things line upsure hope this helps,I've been there many times,silver
Hi Silver,
tried the bisect the cut suggestion. figured throw a hail mary pass and see what happens. Did the volute on the chopsaw, then cleaned it up with a 48" belt sander. Did the rail with a circular saw and cleaned u p the cut with my 4" by 24" belt sander. It's level now. Still has the twist but now very little force is needed to get it level in all dimensions. Cut line is visible, but not too far out. I think I'll dissassemble, glue the joint let it set up then put in place. Thanks! I think you saved me some tuition. Here's a pict!
I'm on dial-up...so it didn't open.Glad I could help you out...folks here have helped me out many times...If we couldn't cheat we'd all go insane...prefer to call itTWEAKIN' so merry tweakin'silver<grin>
lotta tweakin on this one. My first railing. Curved staircase not necessarily the way to begin one's education. btw: I tried making the pitch block, but had some question as to what tread length to use on a curved staircase. I took the middle of the tread and got something that seemed close, but I was never that confident about it and "tweaked." my way to tolerable.
thanks
I think you found your problem...your tread length is directly below center of rail minus the nosing so net run...that's probably why you were off a few degrees...you seem to have a natural aptitude for rails-enjoy your educationsilver