Replies

1. 
   silver | Nov 28, 2007 05:50am | #1

   The cut you made at the up easing should be a "square cut in relation to the abutting piece...so you could roughly check your cut in air with a framing square and know if your cut is in the right ballpark...clear as mud?

   The balusters will take some of the twist out but it sounds like there's
   another issue...is the cut on the upeasing square(the other way now) If
   it's a degree or 2 out,it could account for the twist...

   Hope this helps...coffman has an excellent manual for rails that I would
   recommend...I did my rail apprenticeship in the early 90's...school of hard knocks

   silver

1. 
   gkecon | Nov 28, 2007 06:47am | #2

   Hi Silver,
   a few weeks ago on the way to the big box for the 3rd time that day it hit me that the cuts always have to be square, no miters. So I think I got it pretty close to square. So if the valute is "falling off" level, then I took too much off the upease right? So back to the bigbox, drop another $50 in stairbuilding tuition and try with another valute/upease and take a little less off.Sound right?

   The twist is probably the result of the forces on the bending rail as I'm gluing it up on the jigs for the bending rail. (I dont think its my cut). I guess it must have tourqued when I set it (I did it by myself, so not alot of extra hands to go around). I can remove the twist by hand (which lifts the rail abit off the treads in the middle of the staircase).

1. 
   silver | Nov 28, 2007 07:24am | #3

   a few weeks ago on the way to the big box for the 3rd time that day it hit me that the cuts always have to be square, no miters. So I think I got it pretty close to square. So if the valute is "falling off" level, then I took too much off the upease right? So back to the bigbox, drop another $50 in stairbuilding tuition and try with another valute/upease and take a little less off.Sometimes you can cheat and take a hair off the curving section or off the upeasing-or even bisect your error with a hair off both.If you cut a new one, I'm assuming you're using a pitch block...when you mark the cut,put a light directly behind the easing and mark both points where it just touches the pitch block-the cut is in the center of those 2 marks...sounds like you have the twist under control...
   good luck
   silver

1. 
   gkecon | Nov 28, 2007 07:29am | #4

   I hate touching the railing once I got it in decent trim....$50 tuition is low risk strategy. Is my interpretation of the problem correct, that is I took too much off the up ease and need to back off a bit?
   Thanks again.

1. 
   silver | Nov 28, 2007 08:06am | #5

   Buy the new part, put in position,should be able to mark with square off curved rail...compare with previous cut part and double check layout with pitch blockif verified- cut on line, life is wonderful againor add 1/8 fudge factor parallel to layout line and cut & try...it sounds like you have so much loosey goosey, it's hard to tell what is going on...in that case I always whittle away until things line upsure hope this helps,I've been there many times,silver

2. 
   gkecon | Nov 29, 2007 05:56am | #6

   Hi Silver,
   tried the bisect the cut suggestion. figured throw a hail mary pass and see what happens. Did the volute on the chopsaw, then cleaned it up with a 48" belt sander. Did the rail with a circular saw and cleaned u p the cut with my 4" by 24" belt sander. It's level now. Still has the twist but now very little force is needed to get it level in all dimensions. Cut line is visible, but not too far out. I think I'll dissassemble, glue the joint let it set up then put in place. Thanks! I think you saved me some tuition. Here's a pict!

3. 
   silver | Nov 29, 2007 06:04am | #7

   I'm on dial-up...so it didn't open.Glad I could help you out...folks here have helped me out many times...If we couldn't cheat we'd all go insane...prefer to call itTWEAKIN' so merry tweakin'silver<grin>

4. 
   gkecon | Nov 29, 2007 06:36am | #8

   lotta tweakin on this one. My first railing. Curved staircase not necessarily the way to begin one's education. btw: I tried making the pitch block, but had some question as to what tread length to use on a curved staircase. I took the middle of the tread and got something that seemed close, but I was never that confident about it and "tweaked." my way to tolerable.
   thanks

5. 
   silver | Nov 29, 2007 06:06pm | #9

   I think you found your problem...your tread length is directly below center of rail minus the nosing so net run...that's probably why you were off a few degrees...you seem to have a natural aptitude for rails-enjoy your educationsilver