I’m helping a friend paint inside walls of the new condos he’s building. I’m the cutter, he’s the roller.
Load it up, brush it out to within about 1/4″ to 1/2″ of the edge you’re cutting to, then reload, position the brush, take a deep breath, keep steady, and start and then bring the cut right onto the edge, then do the drag. Straight, right in there. Gallon after gallon.
For latex, what brush do you find works best for this? A guy let me use his brush once, it was a big one, slash bristle ends, not straight cut, had an oval ferrule, probably held half a quart of paint. It was great. I could cut from full outreach back to in front of my eyes and then halfway over the other side, and still be cutting wet.
I can’t find a brush like that now.
Replies
Well ya, now you got me wanting one.
Bob,
Try a Purdy 4" all paint.
KK
I dunno 'bout latex..I gots a boar hair shellac brush just like you decribe..cost 40 odd buks 15 yrs. ago..can't read the handle any more..might be a Purdy?
Stay away from nat. bristles with latex..go poly/nylon.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Latex is so easy to clean that a brush will last years, therefore, buy a top of the line synthetic brush and your job will be so much more pleasant. I'm not a professional painter, but I like an 1½" angled brush for cutting in. Wet the brush and shake it out before each use. That will minimize dry paint sucking up high in the bristles.
Purdy or PPG.
Tim Mooney
Tim,
I know you're an experienced painter. Somebody here mentioned dipping the brush in motor oil to keep it from drying out. Is this a good tip or a fantasy?
Jon Blakemore
Ive never done it . I like soaking them in reguvinator, or brush cleaner over night.
Tim Mooney
Purdy says that causes the bristles to separate from the ferrule. I'll take your word over theirs.
Jon Blakemore
It does swell the bristles around the ferrule if its left too long .
After a while a purdy gets stiff if its not conditioned . [synthedic bristle]
I normally use a brush soak in conditioneer for 4 to 8 hours. But thats an old brush normally that needs it. Brings back the flex it had when it was new. If a brush gets stiff I dont have a lot of use for it because of the way I use it. I flex the brush into the cut . Ive left brushes in brush cleaner too long and it always swells the heal over 8 hrs . But I normally dont have any thing to work with in the first place if Im using brush cleaner . I didnt have a brush I would use before the cleaner was used on it.
I have used kerosene soaks which would resemble motor oil, but I seem to get too busy. Good idea though and it would be the same effect with motor oil I would imagine. Just a little harder to get out of the heal. A brush thats been soaked in kerosene wont stick paint in the heel , thus making it easiar to wash out when using latex and it dries on the heel. That happens easily out side in the sun . I usely use a rag over the bucket to prevent it. But stuff happens and kerosene is insurance and so would motor oil be.
Tim Mooney
What brand/type of conditioner do you use ? I've started using "Brush Stuff" - same company that makes the Floetrol - makes a fair amount of difference..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
I use Clean Strip, stripper, conditioner , & brush cleaner .
Tim Mooney
I'll look for that one and read its label. I use Poly Clens for a cleaner - does that well, but there's no conditioning component.
PS, I've change to a conditioning dish detergent for that phase of bush cleaning; doesn't do much for the bush, other than clean it, of course, but I have to say that this has been far better for my hands..
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
Jon... I'm probably the guy that suggested the motor oil trick. I use mostly Purdy's... the are just the best in my book. I have never had any problem with the bristles separating (or anything else go wrong with a Purdy)... even though I do use a little motor oil on 'em. So far, I have found little use for brush rejuvinator/cleaners... I almost never need them. Painters on my crew have to buy their own brushes, so they quickly learn to take care of them too. I'm just telling you what has worked for me for over thirty years. I'm sure you will find other ideas out there too.
--- BRICK
"They say that there is a fine line between genius and insanity. I like to color outside the lines...and then eat the crayons." ~ Me
Edited 6/10/2004 2:43 am ET by Brick
I don't think I would dip my brush in motor oil. Just doesn't seem right to me. Although, I have dipped my brush in linseed oil before using oil based paint.
I was talking to a painter the other day, and he said to mix up some fabric softner and water to wash out brushes and rollers (for latex paints only). Said that it coated the bristles and left them nice and soft for next usage. I need to give it a try someday.
About 6 months ago HD had those 3" or 4" XL-Pip brushes on clearance. Was marked down to $7 for a $26 paint brush. I bought two. Haven't used them yet, but man that is a big sucker. Looks like it could hold a quart of paint.
Eric
"A brush thats been soaked in kerosene wont stick paint in the heel"
That is pretty much the same idea as my using mineral spirits with a little oil added to it for final wash of my brushes. I sling most of it out anyway with a brush spinner before I store the brushes away. Kerosene would probably work just as well. Only, I usually have spirits and motor oil on the truck... I don't "dip my brushes in motor oil"... I think that would be overkill and cause some problems. --- BRICK
"They say that there is a fine line between genius and insanity. I like to color outside the lines...and then eat the crayons." ~ Me
I'm no painter....and I hate painting....
but when the wife gets loud enough...
or I get drunk enough (kidding)
I'll cut with a 2 1/2" Purdy sash brush. Synthetic. They seem to last a long time when cleaned properly and hold their shape well. Some of the cheaper brushes seem to "fray" or spread out some after awhile.
You're a good friend to help with painting!
They seem to last a long time when cleaned properly and hold their shape well. Some of the cheaper brushes seem to "fray" or spread out some after awhile.
I've found that if you keep your brush in the container that comes with the brush
that it will hold its shape and not "fray"
I have been using Wooster 21/2" angles sash brushes to cut in for 20 years now. unfortuneately i notice the quality seems to be slipping on them------the handles are getting skinnier and are not finished as well as they formerly were
Brush maintenance should be basic and consistent.
Before using, I give the brush a dip in solvent for the paint that I'll be using. As others have said, it makes it easier to clean the ferrule afterwards.
Paint.
Then use a few rinsings of solvent, combined with a brush spinner, to clean the brush. A brush spinner is the best investment you can make to preserve your brushes. It cleans them better, and faster, than you could do otherwise (overnight soaking, shaking, wiping, etc) and it gets them cleaner while using a fraction of the solvent that you'd use with other methods.
I have three covered coffee cans with covers that I keep spirits in. The paint solids will settle out over a few days, and after the solids settle you can decant the now clear spirits off the top and allow the solids at the bottom of the uncovered coffee can to dry out. I then dump the layer of dried solids out of the can, toss them, and reuse the can for the next decanting. Really reduces the amount of spirits you use.
I usually dip and spin three times, then I'll put a little solvent on the bristles, comb it, wrap it, and put it away. Cleanup takes about 2 minutes per brush.
What do you wrap your brushes with?
Jon Blakemore
Usually a simple wrapping of kraft paper, held on by an elastic around the ferrule so the elastic doesn't deform the bristles.
you should keep the carboard protector that came with your brush. Dont discard them, they keep your brush pretty.
I've used Purdy brushes for quite a while until I found the brush that works the best (my opinion) a 2 1/2 in. Corona sash brush...works like a charm.....Also, if properly cleaned brushes won't fray out in the middle....don't load your brush up that much when painting and never leave your brush in the bucket while taking your break...keep it moist and hanging during breaks.....When cleaning, try to stay away from the wire brushes they seem to pull the bristles out or stretch them in different directions...take the extra time, use a bucket or slop sink and keep the water running or new and clean." Looks good from my house!!"
I was advised to use a Purdy XL-Glide 3" sash (angle-cut) for "all paints" brush - works for me.
Phill Giles
The Unionville Woodwright
Unionville, Ontario
View Image
I have the Purdy on the left. Synthetic 3" with a beavertail handle. Comfortable. Oval copper ferrule. Chisel tip, it cuts in well and distributes the paint nicely.
That big oval ferrule Purdy is what my painter guy let me use. I seem to recall it having a chisel point, though. But maybe not.
I can't get the Purdy site to work for me when I try the "catalog" link. What model name do they give that one you have?
It does have a chisel tip.
Goes by the model name of "pippin" or "pip".
They make them in Nylox (latex), black china (oil), or the Elite which is latex/oil.
Worster brush makes several variations of that brush...
Check with SW paints.
Steal Rez's...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming....
WOW!!! What a Ride!
ive been disappointed with some of the purdy brushes(synthetic bristles) ive bought lately, something just different about them. Purdy does make some fine natural bristle brushes.
Ive been impressed with SW line of brushes, and some woosters.
Best investment with your brush is a brush comb. That 5 bucks will make sure you clean up your new brush just right.