Need some help with picking a wood floor to go over radiant heat on top of the subfloor. We are looking into wesbo type radiant heat to go over a subfloor and to be finished with a hardwood floor. I figured I would use Mirage 3″ wide by 3/4″ thick natural finish birch, but I’m concerned about hitting the tubing with nails or staples. Does anyone have any advice that will aid me in this quest for a natural looking floor with radiant heat? Also, what wood type is most stable for this application.
Thanks much, turtle boy
Replies
Turtle, check with your heating contractor or heating wholesaler, there's a slick system on the market that has the recesses for the tubing already let in. Just lay it on the subfloor, install the pex tubing and put the finish floor o'er top. I think that it even comes with instructions for installation instructions for the finish flooring. You might also check the radiant panel assoc. website.
The Wirsbo overfloor system is called Quik Track. It consists of plywood strips attatched to an aluminum reflector plate. Pieces are 7" wide by 48" long with a channel for the tubing in the middle. I've installed about 6000 sf of it. Seems to be a decent system. Great for remodelling aplications, because it only raises the floor level 1/2". Can be carpeted directly over , I believe. As for hardwood, if flooring is running perpendicular to tubing, nailing is easy. If parallel, care must be taken where nailing aligns with tubing. Sometimes requires face nailing to avoid tubing. Care must also be taken at ends, where tubing turns the corners. A few issues to be aware of:
Heating output is limited due to fixed spacing of tubing (7" O.C.) Some rooms of large volume and glass area (Heat loss) require supplemental heat. This can be done by tracking wall surfaces, where possible. Double check the system design, as the one I did was inadequate. Fortunately , I was wary of the system because it was the first one in my area, so I caught it before installation began.
If track and tubing must be installed, where much work remains unfinished, it should be protected. We needed the system running for heat in winter, so covered it with a glued & screwwed layer of 1/4 luan. If done , tubing locations must be mapped accurately on the surface, to avoid later penetration. Doesn't hurt to take pictures of odd areas. Also spray paint warnings on floor to let unknowing subs ,that tubing is present.
Finish flooring on 3000 sf of this job was 5" hard maple . Nailed, face nailed where necessary, and glued with construction adhesive . Been in place about 18 months, with no problems, in a heating climate. Also done heart pine this way. Birch should be ok.
The system responds very well, but took some work to get there. This was first application for the heating contractor. Balancing of the system at the manifold valves is crucial, as with wood flooring, lower water temps are desired, so flows become more important.
On a final note, the tracking, once layed out properly, can be laid by the carpenters, who are generally more experienced with the basic materials and their application. I.e, more efficient installation.
Sorry to get off the subject slightly, but this system is relatively new, and must be designed , and installed properly. Experienced contractors may be hard to find, and knowledge and training are required.
Best of luck! Brudoggie
Edited 6/15/2002 6:46:36 PM ET by BRUDOGGIE
I think you guys hit the nail right on the tube, i mean head. Thanks a lot for all the information, and you were right on with the fact that this is still new to mant plumbing and heating contractors. The sound of the voice changes when you say you are interested in the radiant heat.
Well thanks again, Turtle boy
Turtle,
If you plan on using the Mirage flooring be aware that I was told by my Mirage rep that they may not warranty the flooring if it is 3/4 but they will warranty their engineered product which is a hardwood floor that is bonded to a plywood material giving you a much more stable floor.
If anyone out there knows different from what I have been told please reply as I am doing the same system on a new construction and I do not want to make a very costly mistake.