Will need to remove interior and exterior doors, windows, cast iron waste pipes, galvanized water lines, sub-flooring, plaster and lathe walls, roofing penetrations, etc on 90 year-old house that was last updated in..umm, let’s see, 1915.
Comments on 3/4″ versus longer length, and pros and cons of buying used on ebay; also best brand of blades to use and is a quick blade change a good feature?
Thanks!
Replies
Go with a Super Sawsall the 15A professional model. Buy it and don't look back. With just the smallest amount of care it will last a very long time under the heaviest use.
Milwaukee blades are good. But nothing special among other good blades. DeWalt blades don't IMHO seem to last quite as long but they are cheaper so as far as cutting inches per dollar it might work out roughly the same. Only blades that impressed me a whole lot are the few Starrett blades I have used.
Usually on demo work and larger jobs the thicker demolition/rescue blades are worth it.
One of the issues with a powerful saw and a good, aggressive blade is that it can cut too well. Anything within reach is at risk. Plumbing pipes and electrical cables you were not intending to cut, cabinets on the other side of the wall. All are at risk.
Lennox seems to have their act together...
proud member of the FOR/FOS club...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forgot about Lennox. Haven't used many of them in reciprocating saw blades that I recall. Don't remember any I used as being remarkable. Probably as good as any. I can testify that their drill bits and hole saws seem to hold up better than most even under job site abuse.We were drilling holes in the bottom plates of heavy I-beams. We rigged a long bar to hang from a rope on one side of the drill. the bar goes through the spade handle of the 1/2" drill. A second electrician used this as a lever to apply pressure to keep the bit cutting.Reading that it sounds extravagant to use two electricians to run one drill but we could drill the holes something like five times as fast. At considerable less risk of the bit binding and throwing someone. As strong drills used on ladders are prone to do.Do you agree that going with a professional grade saw is best or do you think a cheaper saw, one still capable of getting through this renovation, would be best?
as far as the cheaper saw...
go with the best ya can afford...
after this job there'll be another...
I vote Milwaukee...
proud member of the FOR/FOS club...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
If you're willing to spend the extra money, I'd get the Hilti WSR 900 PE
http://www.us.hilti.com/holus/modules/prcat/prca_navigation.jsp?OID=-16125
they now have an inline model they didn't have when I bought mine which may be worth a look if you don't like the "odd" design of the other
After a little use I think the shape of the one I suggested is easier to use then the traditional inline shaped recips. This one has power to spare and operates smooth as can be.
I've used a bunch of different recip saws, this one would be my first choice if I wasn't shopping for price.
That said, if the super sawzall is another solid tool for about 70 or so dollars less. I can't remember exactly what I paid for the Hilti, somewhere around $260.
The articulating Porter Cable Tiger Paw recip saw is amazing. Gets into corners that nothing else can. One of those features that looks like it would be useful occasionally but turns out it gets used constantly. Well made and easily up to contractor level abuse.
Quick change blade is darn near indispensible IMHO. All the good quality saws have it now anyway.
Good luck with the reno,
Wally
I second the Porter Cable Tiger Saw.
"I was glad that when everything finally hit the fan I was holed up in a little beer joint in Robstown, Texas called the El Gato Negro."
"The articulating Porter Cable Tiger Paw recip saw is amazing. .................Well made and easily up to contractor level abuse.,"
Yeah, but what are you going to do if it breaks after a year?
The PC one year warrantee isn't even close to what you get compared to the LIFETIME Milwaukee warrantee. I wonder why? One of the reasons Milwaukee still doesn't have one on the market.
My observation has been that Milwaukee makes the most rugged and smooth operating tools on the market, often times (but not always) at the expense of performance or a neat feature.
Took them almost two years of field abuse and redesign to get that HD Orbital Sawzall up to their standards.
WSJ
Haven't needed the warranty yet Jon. That PC recip saw is 3 yrs old and has done 2 reno jobs 3-4 months each plus general framing use the rest of the time. It's eaten a lot of drywall dust, sand and sawdust in that time and keeps on cutting. We've had excellent service from all the PC products we've got. The only one I've seen that bit the dust was a 19.2 V drill that popped a bearing after 2 1/2 years of major abuse, including two or three falls from heights that I know of, plus a few more the guys probably didn't tell me about.
I know a lot of mech contractors and the like swear by Milwaukee but our company has gone off them. We have 275 employees so we buy a lot of tools. The purchasing guy says Milwaukee, Hilti and the like aren't worth the money - yes they last longer, but not long enough to warrant the extra cost. Supers have an allowance to buy key tools that stay with each super - everything else we 'rent' from the company's tool yard - so I do get to buy a few things. I chose PC circ saw, PC recip saw, Bosch hammer drill and Makita 18V cordless. Although I could have bought Milwaukee on the company tab, I chose not to because I find their saws and drills to be too ponderous and heavy. Admittedly, I don't have to pay for replacements should something go amiss, but very little has.
Until you use the PC bendy saw you won't appreciate the usefulness of the articulating feature. Being able to get between studs and joists changes the way you use a saw, as does being able to see the cut line instead of it being obscured by the saw body. And if it does burn out someday, I'll go right out and get another.
WallyLignum est bonum.
"as does being able to see the cut line"--posted by sly_karmawhat cut line?! with a sawsall?? i've got to get one of those bendy saws! it never occered to me that pencil marks and sawsalls were compatable______________________________________________
--> measure once / scribble several lines / spend some time figuring out wich scribble / cut the wrong line / get mad
You forgot to mention how heavy it is. It is a great tool though. I keep it in the truck for those special hard-to reach areas.
I use the DW cordless a lot too.
My all-around tool is my old PC Tiger Saw.
whele ok! there ya have it.. all narrowed down..(jk)
I've used both the pc bendy one and the milwakee.. i think the milwuakee is a slightly higher wuality tool but the bendy-twisty feature is great.
I think its worth going with th PC. its a good saw and you cant beat that feature..
______________________________________________
--> measure once / scribble several lines / spend some time figuring out wich scribble / cut the wrong line / get mad
Another vote for the tiger saw. And then , go buy a 18volt recip with a quick change.
Tim Mooney
I have a 15 year old Milwaukee basic saw, about 6 Amps I think. Short stroke, allen wrench blade holder. The short stroke can be handy cuz it doesn't reach out quite as far to grab things you didn't want to cut. The allen wrench holder works well, but it's a pain to use. Somehow I have managed to retain the original wrench.
Magazine tests have "proven" that the longer stroke cuts faster. Ok. But keep a decently sharp blade in plac e, and the differfence isn't much. I have not used the PC but I can sure see that being able to shorten the saw body would be real handy.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
The Hilti hands down. Try it and you'll agree.
Sorry, I don't agree about the Hilti. Our company has recip saws of all the different brands and the Hilti is not one of the favourites. The shape is awkward to use and the blade axis is too far from the edge of the body in all directions - it's hard to cut down flush to another surface because of this. Also, the toolless blade chuck is prone to jamming if debris gets in there.
I can't argue about the quality of the tool - Hilti products are extremely durable - but the concept needs more thought.
Wally
Lignum est bonum.
Edited 2/1/2005 8:50 am ET by sly_karma
which model do you have?
I noticed on their website they have any inline model now, don't think they had it when I bought mine.
but I like the odd shape of the wsr900 anyway
I have the WSR 900PE or something like that. Sure is a pleasure to use.
I did see those inline models and they seem to have a ton of power.
Same one I have, and I agree, it is a pleasure to use.
The proper tool for removing cast iron waste pipe is a big hammer. Big chisel helps too, if you want more precision.
Cutting cast iron with a saw is no fun.
I thought the correct cast iron tool was a chain cutter.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
"I thought the correct cast iron tool was a chain cutter."
Sure, if you want to reuse some of it.
or do a quick clean job...
proud member of the FOR/FOS club...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
"I thought the correct cast iron tool was a chain cutter."
I thought it was a 3 lb. sledge hammer....works great for me.
I have a tiger saw and I think it is pretty good. I have bought probably all the different blades available in my area and the Lennox demolition blades are remarkably better.
PC articulating saw is the way to , with a 3 tpi Starrett blade. Those blades are da bomb!!!!!!!!!
I cut through sheathing, 1 layer of wood shingles, 2 layers of asphalt and a ratty blue tarp, front and rear roof of a barn...............one blade! And it still cuts!
Milwaukee sawzalls make grat anchors, as do Dewalts.
Just my opinion
Rod
I bought a Makita years ago, and its still going strong. The key feature that I like in this saw is that the blade is reversible. You can put it in with the teeth up, or down. Milwaukee doesn't allow that, and some others too. Its an important plus, because with the blade in upside down, you can cut almost parallel to the surface you're working toward (If you can't, then you're stuck with about a 15 or 20 degree cutting angle). Great for cutting out bottom plates, and about a thousand other applications. In fact, I never use mine the other way.
You will go through the blades doing demo, buy several packs. Get a variety of teeth options, fine teeth for the harder materials, bigger teeth for wood and pvc.
If you buy on ebay, pay with PayPal or your credit card, so you have a stop or refund option. I think PayPal has a satisfaction guarantee that you can pay a little extra for: do it. And go with a seller with a strong feedback profile. I usually email a ques. or two before I bid, to see what kind of customer service (response) I get. Used tools are generally not the best option, because if they're selling them, they're suspect. But I'm sure there are plenty of good deals out there that will prove me wrong.
i diddnt realize that you couldnt put the blade in upside down with the milwuakee.. thats a bummer. I do that all the time.. infact more often the not its in there upside down (on my old PC)______________________________________________
--> measure once / scribble several lines / spend some time figuring out wich scribble / cut the wrong line / get mad
My Milwaukee swings both ways.(not that it's not a manly kinda saw!)It's a quick-change but I think my old (ancient unknown brand) did too.Alan
"Milwaukee doesn't allow that,"
Well don't tell my old Mil or it might stop doing it!
translation ... yer wrong!
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
Hi All
Anybody used a bosch sawzall? Don't see any posts on them. I just bought one since bosch and milwaukee are about on the same playing field as far as quality (MHO). My Dad has a PC, regular none of this twisting garbage, and we have beat that thing up one side and down the other. Its a good saw for demo and some finer things. Once you buy a sawzall you never want to use a hack saw again so make sure you buy one that works smoothly. You don't want to be cutting a door track with a saw that jumps all over!
AJH Ren
hmmm...that's two in your favor... But my point wasn't that ALL Milwaukees don't, but really, it was to make sure the saw he buys DOES allow the blade to go both ways, since some saws I've tried don't (guess it wasn't the same model you and the other poster have!).
Me, too. All 3 of the Milwaukees I've owned over 24 years would take the blade either way. I can't imagine them changing this feature for the worse.Bill