Okay, I’m trusting all the rave reviews here and I’m going to buy the 100″ EZ Smart guide.
My question is what saw should I get for this application. I have a 7-1/4″ Dewalt which is in decent shape but I definetely want the capability of cutting 1-3/4″ and I understand you need an 8-1/4″ saw to do this. Besides, it can’t hurt to buy another circular saw.
Amazon has 4 8-1/4″ saws (DW, Bosch, Makita, & Milwaukee) for right around $200. Do any stick out as being superior.
Is there anything else I should know before ordering?
Replies
I use a DW364(7 1/4") with my EZ guide. I'll probably buy a DW384(8 1/4") and dedicate it to full time EZness.
The awful thing is that beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and the devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man.
- Fyodor Dostoyevski
I use a DW364(7 1/4") with my EZ guide. I'll probably buy a DW384(8 1/4") and dedicate it to full time EZness.
The only problem with the DW384 (is that a front pivot?) If it is you need extra room to start your saw and the plunge isn't as good as a rear pivot saw.
You may damage the antichip inserts and edges if you don't pay attention.
YCF Dino
Welcome to thr EZ-one Jon.
The question is...how many times you need to cut 2 x materials. If you only cut 2 xs few times a year, I stay with the 7-1/4".
You can remove one antichip edge from the guide and use the guide as an edge guide.
If you're making cabinets and other fancy stuff.If you need the dust collection and still cut thru a 2x4 with a regular 7 1/4" blade and few other benefits ...like no other..I go for the Hilti WSC 267-E.
I test one yesterday...and I think is one of the best. The price is ONLY $300.00 and I bought few just in case they don't have them in stock.
Just keep in mind, this isn't a framers sidewinder or warmdrive.
It was designed to work with the Hilti guide rail system. But anything works better on the EZ.
Good luck.
YCF EZ Dino
So Dino -- you obviously like the Hilti.How about giving us a quick review of what you like and dislike about it? What do you think makes this saw worth 300 bucks?I checked the Hilti site, and their info on this saw and its features is pretty thin.********************************************************
"I tend to live in the past because most of my life is there."
-- Herb Caen (1916-1997)
Hi Nikkiwood.
The list of benefits on this beast is quite long. Keep in mind that this saw was designed to work on the guide rail.
Variable speed and electronics (smart power)
Stable in bevel cuts due to unique 3 way bevel lock. Front-back and top.
EZ to set bevels and depth of cut.
Dust port for vacuum.
More depth of cut than any other 7-1/4" CS. (cuts thru 2x on the EZ.)
You can use standard blades. (American tool-box)
Plunges from the rear and you don't need longer rails than your materials.
The guard retracts EZ from the top of the saw.
And the Electric brake. Not as fast as others saws..but at list is there. (3-4 sec.)
This is just few of the top of my confused head.
Pictures and results in few days.
YF Dino
Edit ..The question here is..list or least I think least is right.
Edited 6/29/2005 9:08 am ET by YCFriend
>>>"Edit ..The question here is..list or least I think least is right."If I understand your edit, "least" is correct.Dino, will a Hilti 7-1/4" saw cut a 1-3/4" door? I'm not super concerned about cutting 2x lumber (although if you had to do a lot of tapered studs or something like that it could be a huge timesaver) but more the ability to cut exterior doors.Of course, as I'm typing this I'm thinking to myself "how often do you have to cut an exterior door down??? Have I ever? I don't think so. I had to cut an 1-3/4" interior door down once, but that was a very unique situation.I'll have to go down to HD sometime and talk to Leo my friendly Hilti rep. He loves me after buying a DX460 PAT, PD 30 laser distance measurer, and several other items but I won't incriminate myself any further by going into detail.Dino, I do have one question. How much thickness do you lose when you install the SmartBase?
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
If I understand your edit, "least" is correct.
Thanks.
Dino, will a Hilti 7-1/4" saw cut a 1-3/4" door? I'm not super concerned about cutting 2x lumber (although if you had to do a lot of tapered studs or something like that it could be a huge timesaver) but more the ability to cut exterior doors.
For few times a year..stay with the 7 1/4" blades. If you have to..just flip the door or use the EZ Smart as an edge guide. Remove the white antichip edge and use the flat antichip insert on the smart base.
Of course, as I'm typing this I'm thinking to myself "how often do you have to cut an exterior door down??? Have I ever? I don't think so. I had to cut an 1-3/4" interior door down once, but that was a very unique situation.
Look above.
I'll have to go down to HD sometime and talk to Leo my friendly Hilti rep. He loves me after buying a DX460 PAT, PD 30 laser distance measurer, and several other items but I won't incriminate myself any further by going into detail.
Dino, I do have one question. How much thickness do you lose when you install the SmartBase?
5/8" with the saw on the guide. 1/4" using the ez as an edge guide.
http://www.eurekazone.com/images/gallery/multiplecutlayouttable.html
Thanks.
YCF Dino
Edited 6/29/2005 3:34 pm ET by YCFriend
jon... that Hilti sounds interesting.. today we used our EZ to trim a set of french doors...
these were 2/0 x 6/8 10-light Morgan Marquis..... $800 for each ...$1600 for the pair
used our Bosch 8 1/4 for the cut.. here's the set up and a pic of the Bosch at full depth on the 1 3/4" door..
perfect cut ... first time
View Image
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 6/29/2005 8:40 pm ET by Mike Smith
For on site work, I go for the 8 1/4" Bosch. The best feature is the remote guard handle. (on the top of the saw) Mike, do you use this feature?
Hilti offers the same feature.
And I see that you're using a framers blade.(on $1600 doors?)
I'm taking the picture for our site.
And I need the other pictures that you have from the steps.
YCF Dino
dino..... ya caught me.....
yup...
using the blade that came with the saw... too bad... the cut is only about as good as i could get with a planer blade... even on $800 doors..
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Time to race the prices?
By the way...I don't trust that blade for continues work on $1600.00 doors.
YCF Dino
Edited 6/29/2005 10:11 pm ET by YCFriend
don't worry... any day now i'll buy a Marathon blade for tiMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
here's those stair pictures...
View Image
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 6/30/2005 8:29 pm ET by Mike Smith
and more....
View Image
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 6/30/2005 8:32 pm ET by Mike Smith
and to finish the series...
View Image
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 6/30/2005 8:36 pm ET by Mike Smith
Thanks Mike.
I will keep this pictures "safe" in our site.
In case you lose it.
YCF Dino
Sounds like it is Hilti's answer to the Festool. Would you sum it up that way?Gene Davis, Davis Housewrights, Inc., Lake Placid, NY
Metabo-Bosch- Dewalt-and others,have better saws for "their" guide systems in EU. " edit. not better than others, just better saws for the guides)
And all systems in EU are "designed" after Festool???
The Hilti guide guide rail is similar to all other European systems.
But the Hilti Circular saw is unique in many respects. Same with the ATF.
I don't think this is Hilti's answer to ...another Company.
And the same goes for the EZ. We never think how to make the EZ "better than the others". We just make it better.
Have you seen the Ez Repeato yet?
See you.
Thanks. YCF dino
Edited 6/29/2005 4:23 pm ET by YCFriend
Jon, I just dropped a grand on Festool's large saw and four different size guides, plus a few other extras. I've spent this week ripping trim from 3/4x4x8 sheets of Azek and I can tell you that the guide system (no play) is impressive, but I am even more impressed with the saw. It isn't cheap, but it has all the bells and whistles you could ever need. And it's designed for their guide system. It cuts noticably better than my table saw.
Just another option.
How's the price of the Festool compare to YCF's stuff?
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
55" guide with AT 65 saw is $525. I bought the 106" guide for $190, 32" and 48" guide, though I can't remember how much they were, maybe $60-80 each.
The saw's cutting depth on the guide rail is 2 7/16" perpendicular and 1 3/4" on 45 degree bevel. So the AT 65 will cut 2x material. The smaller AT 55 cutting depth on guide rail is 1 15/16" perpendicular, and 1 7/16" on bevel.
The smaller saw kit runs $410, and the saw is about 4.5 pounds lighter (10.6# as opposed to 15# for the AT 65.)
Both have soft start, speed control, push button depth control, and neat LEDs to tell you what, I haven't had time to figure out. Runout is nil. Plunge action is smooth, and a riving knife (splitter) is included, but must be removed to plunge cut.
On the weak side, they nickle and dime you to death on the accessories (guides don't come with clamps, you must buy them separately, which I highly recommend, and the fence that attaches to the saw requies an adapter that must be purchased separately. ) Also, owners manual and accessory literature are also weak, or nonexistant (no accessory as any literature, that I've found anyway.)
Dust control should be great, but I have yet to hook mine to a vac (adapter required?). As Quicksilver pointed out to me, the amp draw on the big saw coupled with the current from a vac will probably trip most 15-20 amp breakers if both a run on the same circuit.
The saw alone is a sweet tool to use, and I bought it exclusively to use with the guide system for cutting doors, sheet stock, etc.
You can order direct from Festool America (888) 337-8600, or order on the web at http://www.festoolusa.com
I never met a tool I didn't like!
Nick, if you ever have a question they (Festool) have an excellent tech service department. The phone number is on every tool. After cutting a bunch of birch ply I noticed the plunge didn't go back all the way causing it not to be able to lock. I couldn't figure out what the hell was going on. I called and a little bit of saw dust had gotten in there and was causing the saw not to seat. It was easy to fix. Point is the tech guy knew exactly what I was talking about, probably common. To be honest I can't remember exactly what I did to fix it. I think I removed the blade housing cover and cleaned the seat a little right at a pivot point. I'd have to look at the saw to remember. Another point, I love the stuff, but Festool is not infallible. When I saw someone post that the Hilti 267 will take a standard blade I thought that was a good point, but I also think the quality of the Festool blade coupled with their engineering makes for the finest cut I've ever seen bar none. Did you see the post with the picture showing the wafer thin cuts where you could read the label writing from through the cut side? Was that you? Cause that was certainly a fine cut Festool or not I think it was an EZ guide. The guides really have the potential to help improve the quality of carpentry in general. Sort of like the slider did back in the late 80's and early 90's. I was part of that generation. I never thought it would go but then came that 12'' everybody seems to like. And now all the sliders are beasts. I still have an old Dewalt 1707, nice and light, that works, when I use it rarely, its like I dinosaur, but back then they (sliders) were the ####.
We just entered sheetrock stage this week and I'm looking forward to putting the Hilti rough stuff away and breaking out the Festool. Those damn Germans when are we going to start competing. I guess when Home Depot stops driving the market.I have the AT55 by the way. And ya those guides add up. Careful. Using it on the jobsite, try to keep clutter free. It's easy to get a little over confident, that thing will jump. My rails got a few nicks. Also I was clamping everything at first. But those rails hold on line without the clamps. I know you'll have to get to that point yourself. But as you experiment you find the clamps come into play less and less. I'm looking forward to buying that cut table. I'll keep you posted.
The 106" guide already has a chunk bitten out of it from kick back. My own fault, it wasn't supported well and the sole plate wasn't centered right and when I squeezed the trigger - WHAM. All I could think of was, man, there goes 190 bucks. But it still works fine. I use the compressor with a blow gun on the saw prior to putting it to bed. I cut some wafer-thin Azek today, transluscent almost. Unreal the quality.
Thanks, I've been thinking about that table as well, but it seems more of a shop type thing than a field tool, although I admit I haven't really looked into it.
I never met a tool I didn't like!
Well I saw it as . . . . an extension of what I've always been after. Bringing shop accuracy to the field.
When I saw someone post that the Hilti 267 will take a standard blade I thought that was a good point,
Hey. That was me.
but I also think the quality of the Festool blade coupled with their engineering makes for the finest cut I've ever seen bar none. Did you see the post with the picture showing the wafer thin cuts where you could read the label writing from through the cut side? Was that you?
No. That was me again. This one was with the ATF on the Ez Smart and the standard Festool blade.
View Image
And this one was with the PC 325 MAG with a freud blade (Diablo)
Cause that was certainly a fine cut Festool or not I think it was an EZ guide. The guides really have the potential to help improve the quality of carpentry in general.
Not only quality.Speed-safety- Versatility-portability-affordability and all the good stuff.
A guide rail is like a "Manual" CNC.And ALL guide rail users are
Smart and la-ez.
Lazy.
YFCF Dino
A PC with a diablo. I would have never guessed.
I told my co-worker, a carpy I've been working with for a long time, about your paper thin post with the PC, the diablo and th EZ. His response, "I want one ."
Meaning the EZ
. You're the first official festoolian who recommend the EZ.
Thanks
YFCF Dino
I tried to put a tag on my post, but i couldn't figure out how to do it exactly.
It said' the proof is in the pudding' This would be a case in point.
quick-
If you click open your profile and open 'my prefs' you can then scroll down to a box that says 'personal signature' and type in your tagline.
Then continue scrolling down and click 'submit'.
Cheers
A person with no sense of humor about themselves is fullashid
I did that. Problem was I couldn't get it to be on the bottom of the page like a signature. It kept coming right at the end, like it was the last sentence, rather than some smart #### credo. (trying to be funny) If you have further advice I'm all eyes.
After you type in your tagline place the cursor at the beginning of the tagline and hit the Enter key.
Hit it how ever much space you want between the bottom line of the text and the tagline.
Cheers
A person with no sense of humor about themselves is fullashid
I thought I tried that, but I'll check again, thanks
Quicksilver
Last time we sent a Forrest blade back for sharpening, we sent a Festool blade too and it came back just like new for less $$$ than they cost new. Forrest has their sharpening down to a science. I have seen a pic of a Festo crosscut guide, but I think it might be part of their table system?
Dino
Keep us up on the Hilti saw performance . Love your open-mindedness about the different systems, love the Festo (my Dad's) and have my eye on EZ smart w/ table for my truck. I have two miter saws, why not two saw guide systems? Well, other than money at the moment.
My understanding is that the cross cut guide can be used separately from their work table. I've been told it works well, although the guy who told me is in sales and has never used one beyond the display they have set up in their store. I hope to have purchased one by the end of July. I'll post my feelings about it.Oh and I almost forgot. The same guy has been suggesting that I take my blades in for sharpening. Do you send them? Can you give me an address? Thanks.
Edited 7/1/2005 10:31 pm ET by quicksilver
Keep us up on the Hilti saw performance . Love your open-mindedness about the different systems, love the Festo (my Dad's) and have my eye on EZ smart w/ table for my truck. I have two miter saws, why not two saw guide systems? Well, other than money at the moment.
Hi BradR.
The latest on the ..."Best Saw for Ez Smart."
Yesterday I use the Hilti on the EZ for few hours.
Nice saw with unique benefits.
1. Plunges EZ and straight without any side movement.
2. From Hilti." Uniquely positioned on top of the tool, the lower blade guard release is designed to be operated in one fluid motion" works good. Same feature can be found on the Bosch CS 8-1/4"
3. The smart power and the variable speed is good to have.(you never know).
4. EZ to set and cut bevels . (very nice)
5. Ez to set depth of cut.
6. Ez and safe to chance sawblades. (very unique design )
7. Ez to connect the vacuum hose with good dust collection.
But...Not as ez to use all day long as the regular sidewinders. The top handle is the only drawback. Not at the right place.After cutting 2x materials for few hours ...I grab the PC Mag 325 in order to get a brake.
And while testing different saw blades ..I can't use the Diablo. But this is something that can be corrected Ez with a simple washer.
And the electric brake. Not as fast as the Mag. 325. but not a problem because you can lift the saw while in use without damaging the plastic edge of the guide.
(With the base still on the rail and the depth knob lose) Like a plunge saw but without the spring. That I think some times is better because you don't have to apply pressure in order to keep the saw down and have limited cross cut capacity.
For on site work..I go with any sidewinder. For shop work...the Hilti is a good choice but not before you play with it. (the top handle)
Before I forget. The Hilti on the EZ cuts thru 2x materials with a regular 7-1/4" blade.
Time for the Dinuts. And to post an Ez Smart Special for our 4th of July weekend.
See you guys.
LA-EZ Dino
YC I thought maybe you'd like to see this. I posted it in Gen Disc under a thread I started about range meters. Maybe you could enlighten me about something: the plunging mechanism of the 267 I didn't quite get and the rep was just learning about the saw too. Actually because of you I knew more about it than he did. I know my report was a little negative as far as the 267, but I got the feeling I didn't get the full effect. He didn't have a rail so I didn't really get to see it as compared to my saw but really only got to look at it from comparison with a regular saw or a wormdrive. Man that thing truly looks like the Mazaratti of circ. sawsThe Hilti rep came by today and gave me a demo of the two new circular saws and two of the range meters. Both saws were very impressive But the less expensive one the 167 I believe seemed like a better field saw for framing at 15 amps it was plenty strong and smooth.As for the range meter, I asked him to shoot from one stud wall to another - 181.8 he said. I asked my guy to check 181-3/4 +. Dead on. Then I went outside and asked him what to do when I can't see the beam. He said wait, and went to the truck and got the pd-32, which has a little lens portal on the side. I looked through it and measured a car 150' feet away, laser as bright as anything. The I tried to measure a city block. I could see the beam perfectly but couldn't get a reading. He said let me try and while he was fiddling I noticed I could see the beam without the aid of the portal plain as anything again. But the meter was out of range.The way it worked is that you hold it against something set it to measure either form the front, back or and extension used to take an angled measurement from an inside corner. On the down side you press the button to turn on the beam and press it again to take the measurement. Anyone who's ever tried to shoot a target over a good distance knows that steadying and slight adjustments are time consuming. And it you twitched at the last second, easy to do when you have to press a button, you could get a bad measurement. But in its defense like anything else with practice I'm sure it could be mastered. Actually I was duly impressed with all of these products. But least of all with the more expensive circ. saw the 267. I have the Festool and although this one would allow itself to be used as a regular saw in the field, either the guy didn't know enough about it to show me all the bells and whistles or they compromised something to make it a hybrid. Although nice and super cool looking it ain't no Festool
Maybe you could enlighten me about something: the plunging mechanism of the 267 I didn't quite get and the rep was just learning about the saw too.
I think is better to plunge the saw from the back. (for many reasons)
And I don't think is better to apply pressure all the time in order to keep the saw down. That minimizes the reach of cut and makes it harder to work all day long. The tilt lock by Milwaukee haves an advantage here. Or even the warmdrives. The PC Mag is the next best thing for ezness.
The Hilti 267 (with few minor modifications on the handle) can be the answer. But on the other hand, the Mag is a winner.You have dust port for vacuum hose.You have the strong motor and electric brake.You have the best handle and balance..you have it all there. And is only $149.00. And you can use it on and off the guide rail without the need to buy another dedicated saw.
But again. It ain't no F or H . This other saws have other benefits that ..if you need them...the better choice... for you.
Both saws were very impressive But the less expensive one the 167 I believe seemed like a better field saw for framing at 15 amps it was plenty strong and smooth.
Yap. The Mag 325 in red colors. but without the dust port.
But least of all with the more expensive circ. saw the 267. I have the Festool and although this one would allow itself to be used as a regular saw in the field, either the guy didn't know enough about it to show me all the bells and whistles or they compromised something to make it a hybrid. Although nice and super cool looking it ain't no Festool.
I Think the 267 is a dedicated saw. Yes you can use it off the guide rail but is awkward to cut 2xs with the handle on the top and with no sight at the cutting line.
Until another carpenter like me and you find the time and money to design "the best CS. We have to use what the marketing jennies think can sell EZ.
La EZ Dino
.
Forrest Co Inc. 1-800-733-7111
Had very good luck with them.
Just another option.
It's good to have options. And you can't go wrong with your system.
One thing I may suggest. Use a vacuum or at least a blower to clean the saw every few cuts. (don't ask)
If you ever need some EZ Smart features like,
Repeatability (down to 1/10.000") and narrow stock cutting capacity (down to 1/4") Or antichip on both sides of the blade on and off the guide rail...(just to name few "ez only' stuff) you don't need to buy another saw. Your saw works nice on the EZ.
And here is the latest from the EZ-one.
View Image
View Image
Another first from eurekazone. First time ever in woodworking history... Repeatability on the left, repeatability on the right side of the guide. Repeatability on the left side of the saw blade (keeper side), repeatability on the right side of the blade (wasted side). What else is next? Available September 1st with a few other ez smart jigs and gadgets that will make woodworking easier, safer, faster, better, and why not more affordable than ever before. see The EZ Repeato in action demonstrating the dead wood concept
NickNuke'em. Please. Don't take this like another F vs E debate.
The more options we have..the better EZit. And we're working on making our stuff available to all. Regardless if you own the E ,the H or the F system.
The idea is to find a better way.
YCarpenterF Dino
Thanks for the info, there are a few items you have mentioned that might be worthwhile.
FWIW, I didn't view this thread as a camparison between any product; Jon wanted to know about saws for the guides, and, being very impressed by the Festool, and considering you don't need the larger saw - which might defray some of the cost, I figured he might like to know about it.
After using the Festool a lot these past few days, there are a few things which can be improved upon. I would like to see a T-square type of guide for square cutting. Also, I've cut a lot of thinner stock for column and beam wraps and always have to remember to burn the width of the blade when marking the stock to cut. (Sometimes I pass it thru the table saw after cutting, but the cut is not nearly as good right of the guide.) Wider cuts are no problem, as the guide rests on the piece to be cut. Any ideas on how to make cutting thin pieces easier?
Thanks
I never met a tool I didn't like!
Thanks for the info, there are a few items you have mentioned that might be worthwhile.
FWIW, I didn't view this thread as a camparison between any product; Jon wanted to know about saws for the guides, and, being very impressed by the Festool, and considering you don't need the larger saw - which might defray some of the cost, I figured he might like to know about it.
I recommend Festool tools every day. I Use them and I like them. Some times Festool can be the best choise.
After using the Festool a lot these past few days, there are a few things which can be improved upon. I would like to see a T-square type of guide for square cutting. Also, I've cut a lot of thinner stock for column and beam wraps and always have to remember to burn the width of the blade when marking the stock to cut. (Sometimes I pass it thru the table saw after cutting, but the cut is not nearly as good right of the guide.) Wider cuts are no problem, as the guide rests on the piece to be cut. Any ideas on how to make cutting thin pieces easier?
You meant narrow pieces. To solve this problem you need to keep the good piece under the guide rail. You can extend the clamping capacity down to zero if you make something similar to the "smart clamping system."
1.You need to use another piece of wood (scrap)of the same material thickness that you're cutting. Then use another piece of wood to clamp the scrap and the good material. You can get an idea here.
http://www.eurekazone.com/products/detail/scs.html
We will make a similar smart clamping system for your guide rail.
But until then just use two pieces of scrap wood.
I hope that helps.
YCF dino
Ooooooooh... Time to make some more room in the toy box.
Does that EZ Repeater mount to the table or to the guide? When will it be available for purchase?
If we fail to catch a cosmic fish it may be a trillion years before the opportunity comes again
Ooooooooh... Time to make some more room in the toy box.
YES
Does that EZ Repeater mount to the table or to the guide?
Slides under the guide. This way you'rent limited to the length of the table. Actually you don't even need a table for cutting lumber.
The EZ REPEATO (not repeater) becomes the table legs for the EZ Smart. In case you don't have the room for the smart table or saw horses.
When will it be available for purchase?
Sept. 1st. And not a day before Sept 1st.
Thanks Kevin.
Edit. Time for the dinuts now. Talk to you later.
YCF dino
Edited 6/30/2005 9:46 am ET by YCFriend
Cool, that gives me time to come up with a plan for convincing the Dear Wife that she can't live without it!
So how many dinuts will I need to send you on Sept. 1st to get a return package with one of those babies in it?
If we fail to catch a cosmic fish it may be a trillion years before the opportunity comes again
Is funny how a name comes alive for something.
I like the REPEATER better than the repeato.
So, the EZ REPEATER will be in line $$$ with other ez stuff.
No idea yet how much Dinuts.
That was a spelling mistake. I meant Donuts.
Thanks K.
YCF Dino
I figured "dinuts" was short for "Dino donuts." Now I don't know what "dinuts" look like but I figured if they are anything like the EZ guide, and it's price, they are sure enough sweet and very easy to swallow.
If we fail to catch a cosmic fish it may be a trillion years before the opportunity comes again
Oh come on Dino
You tease us by showing us a new gadget, and then say we can't have it until Sept?
thats 2 whole months away!
Sign me up for one anyway.
Oh come on Dino
You tease us by showing us a new gadget, and then say we can't have it until Sept?
thats 2 whole months away!
Yap. This is the.... D-Revenge.
YCF Dino
The guys who are helping me build my house all have the Hitachi 8-1/4" saw. It's lightweight, and has better apparent balance than the Bosch. The sole plate on the Bosch seems to be a bit too flexible as well. FWIW, most of my tools are Bosch, but maybe not a future saw purchase. I am looking at getting an EZ-Smart guide too.