best size waste water pipes for bathtubs
We’re building a new/forever home and want to solve the problem of slow draining bathtubs by upsizing the waste water pipes (rather than trying one useless hair-catcher after another, then digging out the yuck every week with needlenose pliers). So, how big can we go and what material is best for pipes?
Thanks!
Replies
I know this isn't what you're after, but I've finally found a combination of hair-catchers that works, at least for a tub with a pop-up drain stopper that only gets used as a shower.
1. Remove the pop-up stopper.
2. Insert one of those metal basket shaped catchers with the round holes, inside the drain where the stopper normally goes.
3. Put one of those plastic floppy-brimmed hat shaped hair catchers with the fine holes on top.
Clean the plastic hair catcher before and after every shower.
At the first sign of any slowing of the drain, or once a month, check the metal hair catcher. Remove it, take a Q-tip to clean it out and wipe any remaining scum with a Kleenex, and replace it.
Very, very rarely I will find a couple of hairs in the drain below the metal catcher, adhering to the metal cross-piece or the rod that lifts the popup stopper.
I haven't had any more clogs in over 2 years since initiating this regimen. My fiance and I both have long hair that tends to shed in the shower.
Rebeccah
Rebeccah, thanks so much. I haven't tried the metal basket beneath the plastic floppy one, but I will now. I still have to live with the current situation for a good while before the new house is built. And I don't know if there's even a different solution then. So, thanks much.
You're welcome. Of course, now, having made this brilliant recommendation, I find the drain is running slow. :(I don't see any hair down there, so I'm trying one of those "natural" septic system cleaners. The plumber left it when I had some major leaks fixed when I first bought the house and mentioned the slow tub. At that time, it seemed to help a little but then the drain slowed again a couple of months later. That's when I got out the big guns and went after the presumed hair ball with a caustic liquid, and started on the two hair-catcher routine I use now. I think I've done the septic system cleaner thing maybe one other time since then.Rebeccah
Don't you just hate when that happens?! I read that those enzyme things don't hold up under rigorous testing, but if it works for awhile ok. So does my remedy of 1/4 cup baking soda, 1 cup white vinegar, wait 5 minutes, then flush well with very hot water. But I really think it mostly cuts any soap/skin oil/greasy stuff in the middle of the pipes. I'm resigned to an occasional professional plumber cleaning-out. Only had one done in 17 years here, so it's not so bad. But if I didn't keep at the drain constantly I'd be hauling in the plumber. Surely there's a better way. I'm off this weekend to find my metal inner basket though. Thanks, again.
New house?
Ya know, I'm getting tempted to think, if you have the room, to use a two inch dia. P-trap and if a 2nd floor with possible access from beneath via a vent cover to use a trap that has the screw-in drain cap at the bottom of the U and be done with the whole escapade.
I'm with Rebecca. Our slow drain problems went away when I started using a SS mesh drop in basket (as opposed to the plastic floppy hat).
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Getting back to your original question, I also think you should be fine with 2" (not 1.5")plastic drain pipe (PVC or ABS, whichever is used in your area) properly sloped, plus the required venting. You want the inside edge of each fitting and piece of pipe to be filed smooth before they are solvent welded together. Tiny bits of PVC sticking out will catch one strand of hair, then two, then ..... until you have what some plumbers call a 'ponytail' inside the now slow-running drain.
How you will convince your plumber to take the extra time to do this, I have no idea.
Thanks so much, r. I've printed out your advice. It will go into the specifications for the builder. Some custom builders around here put the specs into contracts with their subs, which is helpful. Then there's only a question of inspecting the work afterwards and having it redone if not up the spec. I guess if it feels smooth it is??Best way to ensure it is to be onsite, so IF there's any possibility of getting notification of when the plumber will be doing this we will be onsite to discuss it with him.
BJ,
You,ve recieved a lot of good advice in this thread.
My wife and I both have long hair, and over the years we've lived w some drains that always clog, and some that never clog.
A couple more suggestions. Don't install a D&W w the pop up drain, install the type that you put in a stopper to fill the tub. The pop up has a rod that protrudes into the drain and will always catch hair. As was pointed out, careful pipe fitting ( no burrs, no extra glue ) make a difference,,,,,,, as will 2" pipe. Oddly, showers are plumbed w 2" pipe,,,,, tub/shower units are usually plumbed w 1.5",,,, never could figure that one,,,,, guess there is a reason though.
Also, not cheap, but I reckon properly soldered copper pipe would be the least likely to clog,,,,, nice smooth insides.
Happy Showering
Oddly, showers are plumbed w 2" pipe,,,,, tub/shower units are usually plumbed w 1.5",,,, never could figure that one,,,,, guess there is a reason though
2" for shower pans because they only have a capacity of 5 or 10 gallons before they spill out of the pan. Also because a shower doesn't have a overflow drain like a tub does.