best way to do sheetrock window returns
What is the best method to install sheetrock returns on windows? Is it essentially the same as installing outside corner bead, only around the window frame? Are there products that neatly “join” the sheetrock to the window frame itself? I have always liked the look of sheetrock returns, but I am concerned that the opening/closing and general activity around a window might make the joints crack often, and not be as durable as the typical extension jamb/casing method. Any advise is appreciated!
Replies
I would not gyproc returns. It can be done, make a neat joint where the gyproc meets the window, keep it spaced the same all the way around, caulk and paint this joint along with the return. Make a sill out of other material, don't gyproc the sill. When you figure out the cost of corner bead, finishing, and painting it might just be worth while to trim it out in wood and casing.
If the window 'weeps' from humidity it will damage the gyproc.
leave the joint at the window loose and INJECT the caulk in to resist cracking loose. high silicoln stays a little stretchy. polyurathane the gyp'll crack first.
if your worried about condensation, durrock.
cut it straight ...
cut it short ...
caulk it.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
There are probably a billion + windows in So. California with sheet rock
jambs that have been installed in the last 50 years since they went from
plaster to SR. Those aluminum frame windows had a stucco ground on
the outside and a rock grove on the inside. Of course they are never used
outside the sunbelt. There are beads made for rock jambs
Try http://www.trim-tex.com for examples.......Frank
Had a HO request SR return and I was conserned about the same thing and what I did was dado 5/4 poplar with a 1/2 dado and attached them to the windows, slipped the rock into the dados, shimmed the rock square with the frame and my rocker did the rest .
Not really convinced they saved any money but that was the looked they wanted and that is what they got.
Mike
Adam Savage---Mythbusters
I used to run green board in J channel against the window frame and still would. But I changed to hardibacker siding which will last forever. Rip it a 1/16 short and caulk.
As for the caulk, I used Alex Plus most of the time when doing paint grade finish and integrating with paint. I noticed that its elasticity on exterior died fairly quickly so I have switched to Dynaflex, hoping that it will work better. Its from the same co and about 2x as much so Im hoping it will be an improvement. Its only been about 9 months, but I havent had any calls.
If I wanted a high end caulk, Pella windows uses 'ChemCaulk' (I think its 3M), in their production, and Ill bet Big Stretch is also really good.
-zen