Best way to install drywall on plaster
Best way to install drywall on plaster?
Best way to install drywall on plaster?
There are a number of ways to achieve a level foundation and mudsill.
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Replies
remove everything down to studs before hanging the DW.....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Yes, but then it wouldn't be on plaster.
so piffen screw it on and thwn float the snot out of it and make jamb extensions and relief the mouldings and.......
but you will have the DW over plaster...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
yep, ugly as it be.
be
so should I have just said....
don't....Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
yep, don't.
Seen some really ugly baseboard configurations after drywall over plaster attempts.
be spelling u-g-l-eeee!
meet me there....
we'll give him a class and get the OP to buy the beer and munchies...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Could be a she.
You get to paint.
snorK*
yup to both....
gotta roll.. Denver awaits...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Don't take it down to the studs. The old lathe and plaster stiffens up the walls, and this can be necessary when the studs are spaced closer to 24" than 18.George Patterson
right...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Greetings bobbyg123,
As a first time poster Welcome to Breaktime.
Most secure method is to locate and mark the wall studs so your screws will penetrate into the 2xs and not just into the plaster and lath.
To really finish it tight a panel adhesive can be spread on the wall before the drywall is screwed, much to the bane of a future laborer in the event he/she is attempting removal.
drywall goes much smoother if yer NOT plastered.
.
.
Pants???
I Don't need No Steenking Pants!!!
but it's so much more fun...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Like we've all said bobby, Welcome to Breaktime!
View Image
Edited 8/9/2007 2:09 pm ET by rez
ya think he went away???Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Why are we not taking the plaster down? It makes life alot easier!
You're joking, right? I can think of only a few things in the world messier than taking down plaster.
D-Mix instead.You get out of life what you put into it......minus taxes.
Marv
There's other options too. There is a covering you can put on the wall, similar to wallpaper that gives a smooth texture and crack resistance. Its meant to be painted. I understand it was used in the pre drywall days, so there is some actual historic basis for it.
I'm quoting a job now that has crappy plaster in a large 3-outside-walls master suite (24' X 32'), but new blown-in and new paint on the outside - I'm gonna' HAVE to go over it. I think I'll fur it flat; add 1" EPS foam, and then DW pretty normally. Built deep new trim.
Forrest
I did our first house with 1/4" drywall over plaster. I buttered up the back of the 1/4' with all purpose drywall mud before I stuck it on. I used 1/2" core? screws to hold it on while the "glue" dried. Worked great.
Insatiable urge to only use half your a$$?
Take down the plaster.
Edited 8/9/2007 6:24 pm ET by MSA1
Taking down the plaster is way to much work and other negative things. I think I'm gonna go with the drywall solution. Any more comments?
Edited 8/9/2007 7:11 pm ET by bobbyg123
Mostly depends on what final look you will be content with seeing on the job.
A room somewhere you just want to cleanup a bit then 1/4inch drywall will make things much easier and probably can get away with just screwing thru the plaster into the lath and doctoring the trim.
If you can't find 1/4 then 3/8s can suffice. Idea as IMERC mentioned earlier is the complications dealing with the trim.
How rough is the shape of the plaster now?
Another consideration is bypassing the drywall idea and applying a skim coat of a drywall paste mixture over the old plaster which is fairly easy and goes rather fast.
Thanks for the advise. What did you do with the electrical boxes though? Since I'm adding a layer of drywall the electrical box is going to be under the layer. So these are my options unless someone has another option:Cut a hole and unscrew the screws in the electrical box and try to pull it up but I need a better way. Any ideas?
Edited 8/9/2007 7:48 pm ET by bobbyg123
Yep, cut a hole.
If you're sold on doing it then there are box extenders sold for that specific reason.
Or you can buy the cheapy Depo/Lowes blue electrical boxes and slice the desired thickness needed on your mitersaw then use longer screws to reset the receptacle screwing thru the receptacle, box extender, and back into the original box.
use an extension sleeve...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
You can, of course, use j trim around existing woodwork and against
walls and ceilings you are not redoing.
Yeah. Abandon the old wiring. Put in new boxes and new wiring.George Patterson
Actually bobby, he makes a good point here.
If you have old knob and tube or questionablable wiring there this is an ideal time to update as any damage to the walls involved in new installation will be covered by the drywall.
Just a thought.
But watch it or yer end up tearing out the plaster lath anyhow after being so attentive in trying to dodge the issue.
be happens all the time
I've just found it easier to strip the wall first. To me its more a PITA to go over.
I rocked over the plaster in my first house, 25 years ago. Couldn't afford the time, debris, or disposal demo would have caused. Sold it after 5 years. I was in it 2 years ago and it looks as good as the day I finished it.
Basic order of things,
1. Remove all the trim.
2. Locate all the framing where you want to laminate and mark it well. Old homes aren't always 16" on center.
3. Take an 8 foot straight edge to the walls, a good 1x4 is sufficient. Check them horizontally and vertically for depressions and high spots. Note these on the wall, -1/2" for example.
4. Remove all outlets and switches and add extensions to electrical boxes.
5. Get ready to rock. Old studs are very hard. You don't want to use too long a screw. Whatever length gets you 3/4" to 1" in is good. For me it was 2 1/2". Also use fine thread, not the usual coarse thread. They're much better/easier in hard, old wood. You'll also need buckets of joint compound on hand.
As to the rock itself, I put 1/2" on the ceilings and 5/8" on the walls. Thicker rock bridges imperfections better.
6. Put lines on the rock for all the framing behind that sheet.
7. Put a golf balls worth of joint compound on the wall, every 10" or so. Any spot with a depression gets more, baseball sized if needed. Then quickly...
8. Put the rock on the wall, wiggle it a little to mush it into the compound so there's good contact and screw it off. Don't screw where there were low spots, you'll just suck the rock down to it. Let it float and screw around it. Repeat, repeat....
9. Be sure to hold the rock back enough around the windows and doors to put the extension jambs on. Also a good time to foam around the windows if needed.
10. After it's spackled, vacuum up the place, trim it out, paint and install new outlets and switches.
Then after lunch, start on the kitchen. ;-)
One thing to note, if the walls have gloss paint, don't use compound, use a construction adhesive made for drywall.
That's about it. It may sound like a bit much, but it actually goes fast. Helps alot having a partner to work with.
I wouldn't hesitate to do it again, good luck with yours...buic
Drill thru the plaster (masonry drill), find where the studs are, attach drywall(use long enough screws so you get to the studs) , tape, mud, finish sand. Doo it all the time.
Edited 8/10/2007 6:50 pm ET by Frankd479
Why don't you just repair the plaster? Be a lot easier and less expensive.
(Somebody had to say it; might as well be me.)
Dinosaur
How now, Mighty Sauron, that thou art not brought
low by this? For thine evil pales before that which
foolish men call Justice....
To late now I applied the new drywall over it and almost finished. Thanks for the advice guys :)
Great. View Image
What did you decide to do handling the outlets and trim?
With the outlets we did an extension. Thanks for the advice everyone I finished the job :)
How'd you handle the trim?
What is the reason for applying drywall over the plaster?!