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Best Way to Paint Siding

GDH2 | Posted in General Discussion on September 22, 2009 05:28am

At 64 I am ready to paint a house for the first time. I have scaffold (ladder?) jacks and a pair of 24′ wood posts and a 16′ wide aluminum platform ($65 at a garage sale (!), all now in excellent working condition and secured to the house). I added a railing and an extra bridge to house brace – much more comfortable. I’ve done a thorough pressure wash (bleach and then rinse). The clapboard nails and trim boards and fascia have been replaced where necessary (SS nails and plastic wood). Now it’s actually time to paint.

I bought a $400 airless sprayer, I have plenty of drop cloths and masking materials, and I am using the most expensive Behr solid exterior stain on the cedar clapboards, and Glidden Endurance Premium exterior latex paint on the trim. I have read instructions, but they are always incomplete. People who do this daily have lots and lots of practical tip and answers to questions.

Is this the correct procedure?
1) Cover (ground, shrubs, deck, etc.) and mask everything (trim, doors, windows) that I don’t want to paint with the solid stain
2) Paint the clapboards first, working from the bottom up
3) Spray the stain on and then brush over it, going side to side (although I will only be doing 50% of the house width at a time because of the limited length of my platform)
4) Jack up the platform and repeat until I reach the top
5) Lower the platform to the bottom and apply coat # 2, raising the platform as I go
6) Lower the platform and paint the trim after removing any masking, raising the platform as I go
7) Clean the sprayer, brushes, etc.

As I write the above steps, I discover questions about some of the details in certain steps. And I wouldn’t be surprised if some of my basic steps have flaws. My questions are:

1A) Should I mask the trim or will the solid stain provide a better surface for the latex trim paint to adhere to?
3A) Should I feather the finish in the center of the house to decrease the possibility of a visible line where the two painted areas merge?
5A) Can I apply the second coat of solid stain after just 2-3 hours?
5B) Do I need to brush in the second coat after I spray?
6A) Should I prime all the trim? The power washing has removed a lot of paint – only the new boards are pre-primed or plastic.
6B) Do the plastic boards require priming?
6C) Should I just use a brush and roller for the trim?
6D) Is there any worry about removing any masking on the trim as soon as the second coat of stain has been applied? If the answer to question 1A is “don’t mask the trim”, how long should the stain dry before I paint the trim?

WHEW! The more I know, the more I discover I don’t know. THANKS!

Doug
The Wood Loon
Acton, MA
Reply

Replies

  1. GDH2 | Sep 23, 2009 02:08am | #1

    A paint store employee suggested I use the Behr $20 solid stain for the first coat and then use the $32 solid stain for the final coat. Can this be done without compromising the quality or longevity of the final finish?

    Doug
    The Wood Loon
    Acton, MA
  2. DanH | Sep 23, 2009 03:10am | #2

    What I did last time was to do minimal masking, roll on the paint with a narrow roller, then back brush. Went about as fast as spraying would have.

    (And I have a distaste for "stain", if this is going on smooth siding. Maybe they've improved, but the "solid stains" of the past didn't perform anywhere near as well as good acrylic latex paint.)

    As I stood before the gates I realized that I never want to be as certain about anything as were the people who built this place. --Rabbi Sheila Peltz, on her visit to Auschwitz

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