Replies

1. 
   Lisa | Apr 03, 2000 03:39pm | #6

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   Forest, you may very well have lead paint - actually, you almost CERTAINLY have lead paint.

   DO NOT USE HEAT! Lead fumes are deadly - especially in a confined (indoor) space! Also, unless you really want to become conversant with the inside of a courtroom, DON'T sandblast, or even sand. Even if you protect yourself - you won't be protecting the neighbors. Trust me - been there done that - from the neighbor end! Our daughter was exposed and now has almost dangerously high lead levels. Another neighbors kid had to go to the hospital. Even if you don't mind disintigrating your own internal organs, don't risk your clients, children, or neighbors, PLEASE! For one or two rooms, or trim or some such, I would suggest one of the paste chemical strippers, like Peel Away. It will work well in a ceiling and does a great job even in the nooks and crannies. It will be less mess and safer than any of the other suggestions. By the way, can you (as a (sub)contractor legally do this - or are you required by code to sub out to a hazmat team? You might check...)

   S Horn, I expect that you have way too much to be able to discretely deal with (as a homeowner). It may be well worth the (ulp!) expense of getting a professional abatement team to tackle your project. Cheaper than hassles with the inspectors, community, legal buzzards, etc, and probably more timely as well. But if you do it on your own, try the paste stripper, the results I have seen were great.

   Good luck and don't let your gaurd down, this stuff is going to end up being a worse nightmare than asbestos.

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 03, 2000 07:41pm | #7

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   I would never try to remove the "bords" as one poster put it. This stuff is T&G, nailed through the tounge, and will not survive the most carefull removal. Trust me, I do historic home remodling, and have stripped about 10,000 square feet of this stuff.

   The best answer yet was Tim's.

   I use both a heat and chemical process. Heat is easier on flat surfaces, but chemical stripping is better on any dimples or corners.

   1. Get either a heat gun or torch (I like heat guns, but torches are faster, just be very carefull);

   2. Grind down a 4" stiff putty knife to the width of one of your boards. Put a nice edge on it, not razor sharp, but definitely an edge.

   3. Go to work.

   4. Get some Methyline Chorlide. They ususally make a thicker version for walls. Ceilings might not be the most pleasant experience for this. Wear rubber jacket and hood, and goggles and rubber gloves. Smear the stuff on, and let it work, per the directions. Usually about 1-2 hours. Remove with a putty knife or coarse steel wool. Rinse with plain water. This will remove whatever was left from the heat stripping. May require 1-3 different applications.

   5. Sand in place.

   I get day laborers for the stripping. It just doesn't pay to use your own crew. Get organic masks for them with lotsa protective clothes.

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 04, 2000 03:51am | #9

   *In light of the last two posts I have decided to edit my suggestion a bit....1. Number bords CAREFULLY. 2. Take bords down CAREFULLY.3. Stac bords CAREFULLY. 4. Go to county courthouse and CAREFULLY get a liscence to do hazmat work. 5. CAREFULLY build dust safe facility. (You may luck out and be able to rent a bit of space at a hard drive or cpu manufacturing facility.) 6. Contact greenpeace CAREFULLY and find out what is the safest grit of sandpaper to CAREFULLY use on the bords.7. CAREFULLY put on full hazmat suit.8. Sand bords.. CAREFULLY.9. CAREFULLY renumber bords.10. CAREFULLY tear down remainder of house. (It's undoubtedly full of asbestos, lead paint, carved ivory from extinct species, and concrete boring flatulent spiders.)11. CAREFULLY fit pieces of cieling together.12 CAREFULLY build new house around Beautious new cieling.I have now submitted the easiest, most helpful, earth-concious, CAREFUL and concise response yet. You are welcome.

3. 
   Guest_ | Apr 04, 2000 03:51am | #8

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   Some clients with an 1836 house have some rooms with 1X8 T&G board ceilings that they will keep. What's the best way to remove the old paint prior to repaint (I want bare wood)? I have the Porter-Cable clapboard grinder, but not sure overhead. I've got one 18 X 18 room to do soon; thought about chemical stripping. . .

1. 
   Guest_ | Mar 30, 2000 03:18am | #1

   *all the stripping i`ve done that gave the best results were with heat gun and scraper; yes it is longer sometimes but well worth the investment.You must work with the layers of paint, take it one at a time and the results are great.Good luck,Mike

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 01, 2000 05:24am | #2

   *I stripped some trim (6" to 12" wide) with 100 years of paint on them. I tried the heat gun method. It does work but found it to be slow. Chemical stripping alone works but is also slow and messy. What I found that worked the best, but not necessarily the least toxic, is to use a torch and a putty knife. The torch heats the paint fast and if you are careful you will not burn the paint or the wood. Once I removed most of the paint with the torch I use a chemical stripper to clean up the rest. I would keep and extinguisher on hand just in case!I don't know if this is a great idea for a ceiling because of the fire risk, but it works for removed trim and moulding.tim

1. 
   Guest_ | Apr 01, 2000 06:24am | #3

   *Sandblasting will give it a different look that some people like. You could say it raises the grain, it attacks the soft spring wood and leaves the hard bands raised. Lots of little fingers and whiskers left too. Forget about brushing or rolling after sandblasting. I had a 2x6 T&G ceiling that had been stained a dark walnut color. When I took out some interior walls leaving an unstained strip, added some new sections, and closed in a porch that had weathered, the sandblast made it all look the same.I doubt if it would look good in your period house though.

1. 
   SHorn | Apr 02, 2000 01:26am | #4

   *I've been reading the paint removal thread with interest. I have a 1939 schoolhouse with 3/4 inch beadboard ceiling and walls. Need to peel off the peeling/flaking paint so I can repaint - bare wood is not reqd. Cannot heat gun - lead based paint. Plan B is the Porter-Cable paint remover model 7403. Sounds like you have experience with it. Does it do a decent job? Plan C is sandblasting. Not so fond of Plan C. Is the P-C worth the investment - got a lot of schoolhouse to paint remove?

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 02, 2000 01:53am | #5

   *1. Number bords.2. Take bords down.3. Sand bords with 20 grit sandpaper.4. Number bords agin.5. Put bords back up.6. Using more 20 grit sandpaper, sand off numbers.I trust this has been the most helpful response yet.You are most welcome.