Hello All,
I would like to install wainscoting in first floor bi-level remodel that is underway. In a recent Fine Homebuilding article on blocking, the author, Justin Fink, recommended adding blocking to better attach wainscotting at the bottom and up top where the chair rail would go. My problem is that I’m not sure what height the blocking should go as I don’t know what height the top of the wainscoting and chair rail should be. Is there a “standard” height? Is it defined by bottoms of windows or perhaps other features. I like the built-up, raised panel style of waincoting and not the bead board style. Do I even need a chair rail if I go with a raised panel look?
Thanks,
Geoman
Replies
Well Geo, I think the height is kinda up to you IMO. I've done wainscoting from 36" to 80+". 42" seems to be a common height. The 80+ incorported the door's head casings as it went around a mud room. I've seen 72" with a wide top band and pegs for coats. You might want to take a ride and look through some new homes in the area to see how the local builders are doing it.
I've seen guy actually sheath a wall in 1/2" ply if it's going to get wainscot. That'd be instead of the blueboard or drywall. Nice, flat, solid, and good nailing/glueing. Gotta pick your height first though.
It's not so important that the blocking be exactly at the top and bottom, as long as you know where the blocking is when you nail the boards. the top rail will be nailed to the studs.
I also like Deisel's idea with the plywood.
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Edited 6/14/2008 7:11 pm by Ted W.
i agree with diesel on this, pick the height you want the wainscotting to be and put 1/2" ply up to 1" below top of wainscotting.
that way seam of ply and drywall is just under the top of the trim of your wainscotting detail.
Segundo,
Thanks for your reply. It is much appreciated. With yours and others I think I got a better handle on this task.
Geoman
I recently did a built-up frame and panel waiscote (paint grade) on a project. Instead of drywall, I installed 1/2 inch birch plywood up to the height of the chair rail (I think it was 32 inches from the floor). Plan out any plywood seams to land under a stile.
Rail and stile frames were applied over the plywood. Then I used pine nosing for a cap on top of the top rail.
I think I attached a photo here. Will see for certain after I post this message.
sweet, that came out looking like a million bucks!
i am curious if it all worked out for you or if you had to add a stud/backing for a seam here and there where a stile would be?
No extra studs or backing were needed, I just got lucky on this one. Sometimes you have to eat some plywood to be sure all the seams land under a stile. Sketching everything out in advance saves a load of headaches.