I have been quite interested in purchasing the Bosch 4000 for use at home and I was wondering if any of you could give me any feedback on the saw? It would be primarily used for general around the home carpentry and building cabinets.
Thanks.
I have been quite interested in purchasing the Bosch 4000 for use at home and I was wondering if any of you could give me any feedback on the saw? It would be primarily used for general around the home carpentry and building cabinets.
Thanks.
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Replies
I've had mine for 4-5 years now and have been very happy with it. Make sure you get it with the left side and outfeed extensions - they've been very handy to have.
Check out this discussion - I posted some pics of a router table insert and cross cut table for the 4000.
http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=65062.1
JT
Wow!. I really like the router table insert. Do you have a set of plans for it?
Thanks.
No plans, but you should be able to come up with it just by looking at the photos. I got the idea from the thread mentioned and just made it up from there. The top is 3/4 Baltic Birch plywood laminated both sides, it's just sitting in the space between the tables and the rails on two pieces of Oak 3/4 stock. The Oak pieces are wedged into the recess in the inside of the rails and rabbeted to about 3/8" at the ends to fit into the recess. The Oak rails just sit there on either side, and the top just sits there as well - it's "clamped" in between the two tables and the router weight holds it down pretty well. I did make the table a scinch less than the space between the table's so that you could "clamp" it slightly and lock it in there.If you need any further pics - let me know.As for the cross-cut sled - after using it a few times, I already know what I'd do differently, so if you have any interest in that, let me know and I'll give you a few tips from what I learned building mine.JT
Great job! I've got the 4000. was planning to build a router table in the near future.....not now.
See -- I told you your idea should be written up. I am futzing with duplicating your system, but for me, there have been a few glitches. I want to use the Rousseau router plate, but only because that's what I use in my shop. I used the leveling system sold by Woodhaven, which unfortunately, will not work with the Bosch TS (not enough space between the saw table and the extension.So, here's my question. I know you used the Woodpecker insert, and as I understand it, they use leveling screws right on their plates. I spoke with someone at Woodpecker, and they would be happy to sell me some of these screws, but they have no idea if they could be made to work on the Rousseau. Could you describe how they are affixed to the Woodpecker plate -- or if it is not too much trouble, take a photo or two of them?The Rousseau plate is 3/8' phenolic, and mounting it would be a whole lot easier if I could use those Woodpecker leveling screws.I know this is asking a lot, but I would be very grateful for those pics if you can manage them.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I'd have to look, but it seems to me the leveling screws are nothing more than allen-head set screws. So if your plate is 3/8", I'd get 5/16" long set screws, maybe a 1/4-28 thread or something just a bit smaller and the corresponding tap size and drill for the tap.You should be able to drill, tap and thread the set screws at each corner and in the middle of each edge. You might use a thread sealant that allowed for removal - that's ensure that once calibrated, it's stay.The other feature of the Woodpecker plate is that it has spring-loaded "ball-shaped" catches on two sides that grip the inside edge of your top - that way as the season's change - it stays tight with the insert.I'll be happy to post or send you pictures of any or all of the components if you'd like - let me know.JT
Thanks for your advice on making my own leveling screws. I will pick up some of the allen head set screws that match my tap/die set.BTW, I happened to see your thumbs down review of one of the Panasonic impact drivers. I think you may have had an isolated, bad experience. I have been using Panasonic stuff for years, as have many of my friends, and for me, they have been really stellar performers. The batteries are particularly good -- run time between charges, and longevity. I get 3-4 years out of a battery that is used daily, and that seems way better than the performance I have seen from other manufacturers.********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
I've had mine for about 2 years and like it. I like the fence on the dewalt better though.
It's a good saw, with a sharp 24T ripping blade I had no problem ripping down 2 1 /4" oak so it's has a good strong motor.
As mentioned the outfeed extension and side extension are must haves. I'd look at the one with the gravity stand also, I have the knock down stand it had when it first came out, it's nice, but wheels would be better.
The older I get Im really liking wheels.
Tim
Love my Bosch 4000 with the wheeled stand, but those wheels are worthless on stairs (meaning every job that has a front porch to negotiate on the way in). The wheels are too small and the supporting frame gets in the way, so you have to lift it over any steps. Could have been designed better. Other than that, a great tool.
Ive got a 4000 Onan generator and the thing is very heavy. I noticed Walmart sells a kit of wheels and handle but Im assuming it isnt "real" as you state for the wheels on the Bosch stand . So I continue to use a dolly and ramp to the trailer .
I had open heart surgery and Im limited to lifting 35 lbs but Ive done 50 easily standing up but no bending over. This has caused me to take different approaches to doing things and it can be done with thinking behind it . The latest problem is 80 lb quickcretes instead of the old 40s. So far the dolly and ramps are doing it but wont stack it , so the thinking goes on. I have the dewalt with the scissor stand and it works as long as I dont set the saw on the ground. When the time comes Ill be looking for a set up with real wheels . Hopefully that will be an option at that time.
Just a note for some to consider that health can change things just like accessible houses. You dont just quit working , you find a way to do it .
Tim
Tim I just used an old 3 wheeled bicycle stroller to move a portable craftsman tablesaw and it worked so well I think I am going to try an incorporate it in to my tool moving by making a shelf and using old tool bags to load all my tools at one time.
Pretty amazing how light weight a cart it is but still strong enough to carry a heavy load and I see these on the trash pile because the fabric decays with the uv exposure.
ANDYSZ2 I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.
Remodeler/Punchout
Great post, really got me thinking. Every day at work's end I make umpteen trips back and forth with my bazillion miscellaneous tools, and I often fantasize about some kind of cart to throw everything in, and just make one or two trips. Tried a little collapsible wheeled box from the Big Orange Box, but it was too lightweight and flimsy for everyday use with heavy construction tools. I'm gonna look for those three wheeled baby buggys at yard sales, and see if I can get one cheap, and rig it to haul stuff back and forth.
If it is just for home use, and you have the space - you might want to consider getting a contractor or cabinet saw. You get a little more saw for the money, I think, if you don't need the portability.
If you go that route - don't forget to check reconditioned or even used. Again - more bang for the buck.
Just more to think about.
The Bosch 4000 is a great jobsite saw. But its not a cabinet saw. It'll do in a pinch, but if you're not toting it from jobsite to jobsite, then I'd look at stationary saws. Just my opinion. I have a Bosch 4000 and love it.
Mostly, I think people buy these as portable, job site saws.
You need to think about whether it would be better for you to invest in a heavier duty saw, that would be more powerful and versatile for use in a home shop.
The Bosch sells for about $500, and for double that amount, you could get a really nice contractors saw.
If you are just occasionally ripping boards, etc., the Bosch would be a fine choice.
********************************************************
"It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."
John Wooden 1910-
Also, For the last few months, HD has been clearing out some Delta contractor saws for apprx. $299. You might check around - they normally sold for close to $500.In my area, I have about 6-8 HD's I could check with, so it's easier to latch on to a deal like that with a bit of calling around.JT
I think the Bosch 4000 is an outstanding portable saw. The stand is the best available right now from any of the major manufacturers. Easy single-action fold and set up, large pneumatic tires roll easily over rough ground. The folding stand makes it a nice choice for occasional home use because it takes up so little space. I know several posters have mentioned that a stationary saw would make more sense if you're not planning to move it, but if space is an issue, a folding-stand portable could be a good option. Some of the key limitations of such a saw - small table width and depth - can be overcome by building auxiliary surfaces that can be mounted as needed.
The fence is accurate once it is calibrated, although it takes some getting used to reading the measurements backwards for wider cuts. On the plus side, when the table is extended for ripping 13-25 inches, there is still ample table surface next to the fence for large sheets to rest on. We have a DeWalt portable at work and I find its flip-down rest to be too narrow to be much use when ripping plywood. However the DeWalt's rack-and-pinion fence is very deluxe.
For power, most of the major portables have 15A direct drive motors, so you'll find them all similar; ie, underpowered compared to a shop saw. A good quality rip-specific thin kerf blade will pay dividends in increased motor and bearing life.
The company I work for owns Makita, DeWalt and Bosch portables, plus several Jet and Delta contractor saws. I've used all of them on jobsites, and had a fair chance to assess them in tough conditions. I bought a Bosch for myself last year.
If you have the space, save yourself some money and get a stationary saw. There are just too many things moving when you turn the crank on a portable for them too be accurate enough for cabinets, trim maybe, but not cabinets. Also I do not like the wheeled gravity stand that comes with the Bosch, it wobbles. Put a cup of coffee on the saw, bump it, and just see how long it takes the thing to stop shaking. Imagine that when you are on the first or last 6" of a plywood cut. Also the fence locks off 90º when there is sawdust on the rail. Maybe its just the Bosch 4000 I've been using but I have to double check the pain in the ars fence before every new cut.
Also I like to clamp a 4' level to table saw fences when running sheets of plywood, helps me keep the sheets straight. Its easy to run plywood slightly off with the short fences you find on portables. I can't do this with the Bosch because at full extension there is only about 1½" of table extending under the fence.
Accuracy is a sacrifice we have to make for portability. Time is money when you move from house to house, job to job.
My two cents.
Gord