I’ve been looking at the BOSCH 4100-09 Table saw to use on the job site.
The Bosch is pricey compared to the others but I’m willing to pay
for a quality tool. I’m interested to have any thoughts from others
about this saw.
Thanks
I’ve been looking at the BOSCH 4100-09 Table saw to use on the job site.
The Bosch is pricey compared to the others but I’m willing to pay
for a quality tool. I’m interested to have any thoughts from others
about this saw.
Thanks
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Replies
I have the 4000-09. The wheeled stand is very easy to use. Getting it in and out of my pick up is a one man job once you get the hang of it.
Look at Gary Katz's web site for his impression of the saw.
http://www.garymkatz.com/ToolReviews/bosch_4100_table_saw.htm
I've had a 4100 for about 8 years....great saw! Great performance!
I would suggest buying/making a closed type of blade insert to go along with the stock insert. Great assist when ripping leaves narrow waste or production parts.
It also keeps small offall out of the sawdust chute exit.
I recently bought the Bosch 10" compound sliding miter saw....it sure is sweet!
........Iron Helix
Edited 12/23/2008 7:26 am by IronHelix
IronHelix,Can you give any feedback about how this saw handles with plywood
sheets of material?What about sawdust blow back?In other reviews I've read negative comment on the above two items.
For plywood cuts you'll need a large table area to nestle the saw in-even if cutting with help. The portion of blank table b/4 the blade is as minimal as all portable saws.
I work alone and have my horse height (by sheer chance) with chop saw cutting box (homemade) the same as the boschw/stand. This allows many full length rips solo.
Since have acquired the ez guide and festool cutting systems, so no pre-cut-down sheetgoods to managable widths.
I have one of the first 4000's. The dust bag is pretty much a waste. With a vac-good collection (with a sealed box below). Seems blade thickness has something to do with it. This blade-chips and dust almost totally contained. The thicker blade I usually use will clog the shut when using with the bag (not with a vac). Also-some blowback occurs most often with thicker blade.
The fence system has held square forever. Operation is smooth.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
I definitely echo your input. I bought the Bosch a year and a half ago to install an onsite built staircase. I got it rebuilt from CPO Bosch. It worked great. I used a combo blade, and it ran terrific. I also have a thin kerf crosscut blade for finish ply cuts. I use the Festool system as you describe to cut down stock and run finish cuts as necessary. There was a point with this saw, where it would not go one. I posted that here in this forum and a few guys said it was a controller that tended to go bad. It has not happened now for a while. Anyway, I love the saw.
At its most basic level, capitalism offers people the freedom to choose where they work and what they do � the dignity that comes with profiting from their talent and hard work. � The free-market system also provides the incentives that lead to prosperity -- the incentive to work, to innovate, to save and invest wisely, and to create jobs for others.� -President George W. Bush
In other words, free-market capitalism is the best path to prosperity.
It has performed very well for me as well. I had heard of a soft start issue I think. Thought mine had the problem a month ago. Slow (almost thinking I'm gonna burn something out) moaning startup. Shut it down and figured I'd clean it all out-motor area undersaw/blade shute etc. Something came up as I finished and I didn't restart for a couple weeks.
Used it and no moan, no slow-soft start worked like day one. Beats me, glad nothing-but there's that faint worry it'll #### out on a "big day".
I think I've had it now and well used for a good long time. Purchased shortly after they came out. Man, memory is a funny thing.
But then again, I'm an old leftist-you never know what might happen.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
But then again, I'm an old leftist-you never know what might happen.
Does that mean you are left-handed???? <g>
At its most basic level, capitalism offers people the freedom to choose where they work and what they do … the dignity that comes with profiting from their talent and hard work. … The free-market system also provides the incentives that lead to prosperity -- the incentive to work, to innovate, to save and invest wisely, and to create jobs for others.†-President George W. Bush
In other words, free-market capitalism is the best path to prosperity.
I work mostly solo. As much as possible I use the saw in my shop and prefab. The shop has a sawdust exhaust system.
I can do 4x8 full sheets by myself with the assistance of the saw table extensions. It also helps to have an additional mobile outfeed support to catch the end of the 8 footer.
For cutting finish materials from whole sheets where a "straight-line" edge is needed I use an 8 foot shooting board/skill saw/horses, etc. Then cut maller pieces on the Bosch.
On-site the saw dust blows out the back fairly nicely. A metal conduit sweep ell will direct the SD into a 5-gal bucket nicely, but the fines still drift into the site. This saw, even with an exhaust vac is not designed to be used in an existing finished interior....too dusty. Set-up in the garage/basement/outside. In shop it doesn't matter since it is a dusty environment anyway.
The follow thru of the blade on the cut throws SD onto my workshirt, even with the vac on.....but I've never owned a TS that didn't do that. I do not use the blade guard system that came with the saw....todays models with a rive knife would be more to my liking as one can readily "see the mark"!
The fence system is superb. The full extension of the table to the right allows one to insert a shop built router table that uses the Bosch fence for routing tasks.
The motor shaft length and blade cowling limit the use of dado or cutter heads. I modified the cowling to allow for easier changing of 10" blades.
I also down size my blade diameter to 9", 8-8-1/2", and 7-1/4" as needed for certain projects.
I like the "constant power" to the blade when under load...smooth and easy!
I would buy another...........Iron Helix
If you have the older bosch saw, Gary Katz website has a video of how to make a riving knife out of the old style gaurd for the 4000. I have a 4000 made the riving knife and like it. It requires butchering the gaurd but I wasn't going to use it anyway.
I second the advice of making a zero cl. insert. The one bosch supplies is flimsy and dangerous.Webby
I still have the guard in the attic storage....it's a nasty day outside, good time to piddle! Thanks for the idea....do you have a link to Katz's video?
I made my zero clearance blade insert from a very sweet piece of seasoned vertical grain red oak with "machined & modified" screws for the holdown hardware.
http://www.highlandwoodworking.com has some phenolic insert blanks that can be milled to fit the Bosch.
Another homemade item of importance is good sled for the non-t-slotted guides. As well as feather boards that mount to custom drilled and tapped holes in the aluminum saw table top.
.............Iron Helix
http://www.garymkatz.com/ToolReviews/riving_knife.html
It is an excellent step by step article. You basically take the gaurd and remove the splitter piece then shape it into a riving knife shape. It works well, better than nothing. I have to adjust it every now and then.
I bought a zero clearance insert blank from peachtree woodworking, but I gave up on it after I used it twice. It wont stay flat. it bends up at the ends. This one was uhmw plastic the slick stuff. Phenolic would probably be better.
I need to build a crosscut sled. I have been using the rockler mitre slot holddowns.
Webby
Edited 12/23/2008 2:26 pm ET by webby
Edited 12/23/2008 2:26 pm ET by webby
Edited 12/23/2008 2:32 pm ET by webby
check out this puppy:http://www.coptool.com/blog/2008/12/around_the_world_bosch_table_s.html
Very cool! But I'll bet it ends up being a lame Miter saw and a lame Table saw.
Love the concept thou.
Looks neat but I agree, the only thing I bet it would be good for is laminate or engineered flooring.Webby
very good with the table and out feed extensions
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
"Some days it's just not worth chewing through the restraints"
Jake,
Earlier this year I bought a Skil folding table saw stand, model 80092. It's made to accept most portable 10" table saws as drop-ins. It more than doubles the table size and is very solid. The fence is at least 8" longer than the original and is a big improvement.
It's almost like having a shop sized saw on site, a very large advantage over the usual portable table saw.
It takes about two minutes to set up or to separate the saw from the stand and fold up the table. I'm using an inexpensive aluminum frame saw with a strong motor and a top quality blade. I can carry it with one hand, like a tool bucket. Same with the table.
When I have a wheelbarrow available, I put both pieces in it. One more trip for my tool box, the chop saw, cords and other power tools.
Read reviews here: http://www.amazon.com/SKIL-80092-Folding-Table-Stand/dp/B0007DFX34
Goggle: Skil 80092 folding table saw stand for other sales outlets.
Edited 12/23/2008 7:43 am by Hudson Valley Carpenter
check out this cool video: site built out feed table
http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/videos/index.aspx?id=101562&c=2"...craftsmanship is first & foremost an expression of the human spirit." - P. Korn
bakersfieldremodel.com
Huck, I'm on dial-up so videos don't work but thanks anyway.
I do have an adjustable out feed stand with folding legs and a long roller on top. It does a better job than most paid helpers. :-)
good choice...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I have the 4100 but I use it at home, not a jobsite.
What attracted me was the reputation of the Bosch work site saws, particularly the motor and the blade guard/riving knife set up... it's slicker than snot. Probably the only blade guard many of you pros here would consider not relegating to the dustbin because it actually works and can be removed and reinstalled in a snap for when you need it out of the way (non-through cuts).
So far, I really like it. Fence is rock solid, the folding stand, while a little hinky to operate at first, is smooth once you figure out the action, the motor starts up soft and maintains power all the way though the cut. Chaning blades is also a snap - even though I don't have a second blade for it (yet).
The dust collection is.. average... which I guess is similar to probably every other portable saw out there. This is with a shop vac attached. It was particularly messy cutting MDF... but then again, when isn't MDF messy?
The stock blade is okay. I'm considering laying out the money for a Forrest blade for it.... we'll see. I'm just about to start up a project - making a large fireplace surround/mantel - where I could sneak the purchase of the blade into the budget so that the client (my wife!) would not notice the cost of that individual item.... snicker.
She can blow $100 on an outfit she wears maybe 10 times total and considers that good money spent... while a $100 blade I could use for years is "ridiculous".
Women! Sheesh.
The table top does feel a little small for ripping full sheets... I'm building a set of tables for infeed/outfeed (saw a nice design in a FHB article using MDF and pocket screw joinery... going to replicate those) for ripping the 3/4" birch ply I'm using to build the mantel carcass. Once done ripping my parts I will then use them as an assembly platform for putting the mantel together... on the jobsite you're going to want rollers at a minimum... or break down sheet goods with a guide/circ saw for easier handling.
All in all it's a bomber tool that I expect I'll have for a very long time... much like the Bosch 1590 EVSK I have... just a super solid, well built, well thought out design feature tool. Makes me want to buy more Bosch stuff.
p.s. I bought the Bosch zero clearance insert but I have yet to take it out of the package... I'll be a little disappointed if it's as crappy as others say it is.
oh... they also make a plate for use with dado blades.... looks to be of the same material.
Edited 12/26/2008 9:58 am ET by GraniteStater
Edited 12/26/2008 10:00 am ET by GraniteStater
I'm on my 2nd one. The homeowner bought my first one after my job last summer and I got a newer model.
The newer is an improvement over the 3 years-ago-unit, better table, better controls, better base, better guard (if you use it), has built in riving knife which I now use and works really well to guide material etc. Soft start and smooth motor operation are excellent non breaker tripping... saw is powerful. Dust collection works well on it out the 2" exhaust...tilt works better onthenew one...
both on gravity rise stand, which is a must for me--work alone mostly--wheel the thing anywhere.
Both of mine were purchased with the gravity rise stand and outfeed supports (extras) for 459$ total at the local yard's 'bosch tool event' where they have the reps there and sell all selected tools at discount prices.
If you can locate one of these promotional 'tool event' sales, you can save tons of $$.