Replies

1. 
   oldhand | Dec 03, 2011 06:57pm | #1

   a different route

   This isn't the answer you seek but when I build jambs from scratch I cut weatherstrip kerfs with a standard width carbide blade on the table saw (1/8"]. Works great.... . but

   I  make applied stops having  never been a fan of rabbeted jambs. 

   I suppose you could do the same on rabbeted uninstalled factory jambs if it was feasible to take them apart and the saw blade would elevate high enough for the jamb width.

    I'm looking forward also to hearing more informed answers to the question as  asked but my suspicion is the bosch base won't get close enough  into the corners. 

2. 
   DanH | Dec 03, 2011 07:17pm | #2

   Kerf.

   And with any scheme you're going to have trouble getting into the corners, unless you take the frames apart.

   I suppose a Dremel style tool with some sort of a fence/guide, running a slotting blade, would let you get the closest to the corners.  Note that you don't need to get all the way into the corners -- the seal will be "adequate" if stopped an inch or so short (and the seal will shrink that much over the course of 5 years anyway).  To use a router bit you'd have to have a REALLY long bit.

3. 
   loose_ends | Dec 03, 2011 11:37pm | #3

   Mayber you could use a slotting cutter in your Bosch router for most of it & something else in the corners.  BTW if I am not mistaken  you may not have room to use that style of weather strip.  A company called Resouce Technology  has silicone weather strip proprietry cutters even a modified router type tool to do the job.  Good luck IMHO the Bosch Colt is a awesome little router

4. 
   kenackr | Dec 04, 2011 12:10pm | #4

   Thanks for the replies !

   I'll have a look at the resources tech device, thanks for pointing it out.

   There's always "V" weatherstrip, but the kerf tubes look very unobtrusive in comparison and they are easily replaced as well.

   Oldhand, I still have an old radial arm saw lurking in storage that could cut the kerf from the top perhaps. The only disadvantage to that is it doesn't give me any excuse to buy the trimmer router, since the old one grew legs & walked off.

   In any event, I might be able to return the jambs with the integral stops (no wonder they were so cheap) and go with applied stops if neccessary.

   I'd still be curious to hear from anyone who's had a go at with a router though.

   Ken

5. 
   DanH | Dec 04, 2011 04:22pm | #5

   It occurs to me that one could use a "multitool" to get the slots all the way to the corners, after finishing most of the slot with a small notching blade.

1. 
   kenackr | Dec 04, 2011 07:17pm | #6

   I might have mislead every one by not stating that the jamb sets are 3 individual boards which have never yet been assembled. I was scratching my head on the "corners" but only just put 2 + 2 together that you all thought they were assembled.

   It's like 3 blind men groping different parts of the same elephant, they couldn't figure out what the heck the other guys were describing!

   Radial arm saw here we come.

   Ken

1. 
   DanH | Dec 04, 2011 08:58pm | #7

   When you insert the gasket, "stuff" it -- cut it longer than will fit and squeeze it together as you insert it.  The stuff always shrinks over time, so you wan't to get it as long as you can to start with.

6. 
   joeh | Dec 05, 2011 01:57pm | #8

   Make a practice piece

   If you have a RA you can dummy up a piece to match what you bought. I think I'd try putting the kerf into the side of the jamb as close to the stop as you can get it rather than holding it up and trying to get it into the stop if that's your plan.

   If you're using the round stuff like resource technology sells it should work if kerfed into the side (I think, maybe not)

   That tool from RT is pricey and something you better plan on using a lot to get your investment back. One of the guys at BT Classic had one for sale awhile back.

1. 
   kenackr | Dec 05, 2011 06:30pm | #9

   JoeH & Dan,

   I downloaded

   JoeH & Dan,

   I downloaded the weather seal catalog from the (Resource) Conservation Technologies site. It looks like their best product for the jambs I have is the WS 15. According to them, the flap type seal has a broader range of sealing gaps than tubular seals and it doesn't have to have to go into the corner of the rabbited stop. They also say since it is beefier than the tubeseals, it will last longer and is easier to install.

   The picture from their catalog is attached.

   No fancy machine required to groove with, but I just might buy the Bosch Colt kit anyhow.

   Happy trails to all,

   Ken

   
1. 
   joeh | Dec 05, 2011 06:35pm | #10

   Table saw for that one

   Set up some good feather boards to hold the jamb against the fence, raise blade until it's into the stop about 5/16" and you're good to go.

   Joe H

2. 
   DanH | Dec 05, 2011 07:14pm | #11

   Yeah, that looks like a good choice.

   Note that you want to notch the stop, not the flat body of the jamb.  A little tricky, since the blade of whatever you use will be running right up against the jamb face, so you need to spend a little extra effort on the jig.

3. 
   calvin | Dec 05, 2011 07:24pm | #12

   You'll have to experiment

   Binding the hinge side is one possible problem when doing weatherstrip.  MIGHT be a good idea to bevel the hinge edge of the door also, to limit the possibility.  Dans mention of not doing the jamb I think a good one, otherwise it would change the "lay" of the strip, unless it is meant to go there.

   What's the catalogue detail say about placement-jamb or stop?  You mentioned it didn't have to go into the corner of the rabbited stop-not sure what you meant by that.

1. 
   DanH | Dec 05, 2011 08:04pm | #13

   Actually, the hinge side often gets different gasket from the rest, because the door edge does come sort of "sliding in".  For the hinge side you might actually notch the jamb proper, if you use the same type of gasket.

1. 
   calvin | Dec 05, 2011 08:36pm | #14

   Dan

   Why don't you show him some examples, it might help out in the procedure.

2. 
   kenackr | Dec 05, 2011 09:02pm | #15

   Guys,

   Here's the diagram from the Conservation Technologies weatherseal catalog.

   Pictures - so I don't have to type 1,000 words.

   
3. 
   DanH | Dec 05, 2011 09:25pm | #16

   Yep, that shows how it should be for the latch side and top.  For the hinge side you may want to flip the weatherstrip over to the jamb face, though.  (Think about how the door would close on the weatherstrip.)

4. 
   kenackr | Dec 08, 2011 08:05pm | #17

   Dan,

   I understand what you're saying about the hinge side and you are correct. On the jamb side when the door closes, it compresses the seal right on the "head" where the door face bears against the stop.

   On the hinge side, trying to put the seal in the stop would subject the seal to a sweeping motion from the door edge and wear it out quickly. In order to get the same angle of attack as on the jamb side,  the groove must move to the jamb face. ( sorta sounds like the shin bone connected to the ankle bone song).

   Thanks everyone, your help is greatly appreciated!

   Ken

5. 
   DanH | Dec 08, 2011 10:45pm | #18

   With factory-installed seals you'll often see the kerfing the same all around, but a different style of seal on the hinge side -- one with more of a triangular profile.