Ok, I’ll hazard opening the proverbial Pandora’s box and ask for opinions on Jeld-Wenn versus Andersen. I lean towards the Andersen from experience of which I have none with Jeld-Wenn. Specifically, a 9′ bow is what I’m installing.
Oh, does the Jeld-Wenn “Auralast” wood treatment take stain?
That said, now for part two: Andersen’s specify a cable-turnbuckle suspension system from the mullions to the header. I’ve done that and was called back on three out of four. On the three we even cut an access hole into the header to tighten the cables’ turnbuckles but they were already tight. The fourth, I built a structural closed-in knee braces underneath (see attachment). Now all my bays are done that way. Besides, it looks much better, too. But I can’t do that on a bow easily. We’re doing a pair of bows and I’ll be boxing in the bottoms unless someone has a better idea.
Pascanale
Replies
Pascanale
I've used Andersen successfully I've also used another brand (weathershield) and went back to Andersen.
you sound like you've got it covered..
Thanks for the reply--you were the only one to respond. But no comments about the suspension cable installation or framing/closing in the bottom of a bow window?
Pascanale
I have never put up a jeld wen bay or bow. My fealings about the andersons is too much dependence on the cables. If I was to install a bay or boy window, I would use braces under the window.
As you read in my post, I've had a bad experience with cables and don't anymore either. Besides the finished effect is much better with a closed in support under neath. I tried to attach a pix of such but nothing showed up on the post. Don't know why. The instructions are pretty straightforward. "Attach Files" button, "browse" for file, select, "upload", "done".
You are asking the wrong person, sorry.
My company installs a lot of JELD-WEN windows, mostly wood. I just recently set some of their bay windows, they came with no extra hardware/cables and no instructions. We were opening the whole wall anyway so we framed a support shelf for them to sit on. My experience with their windows has been fairly good but pretty much whenever you order any kind of ganged windows or bays they always come put together a little out of square or parallel or out of plane with one another. The Auralast wood can be stained but our painters hate doing it. All the wood has to be lightly sanded and pre-stained/conditioned to get good results.
Auralast finish is what I suspected it would be...some prep to get the stain to take. T
And, again you favor like the others, to build a shelf for support rather than the cable thing. It seems best since without the closed in bottom the window looks bad just hanging out there.
Thanks,
There are 2 problems with cables and ANY brand bow/bay unit. First the cables stretch over time to a point. Well it really isn't stretching, it becomes more tightly wound, smaller in diameter over time (the strands get tighter). I overcome this by installing the unit with the seatboard out of level by 1/8"-1/4" high side to the ext.
Second, the cables run through the mulls. this presents a few problems. the cable should be attached in line with the exit holes, this uses the shortest amount of cable. The other problem is that the cables go through holes in wood. The weight on the cables crushes or wears through the wood/ cable intersection. I take the mull caps off on the interior (on some models) and place tee nuts in the cable holes to prevent the crushing. On other models, the tee nuts have to be installed directly to the top of the headboard and bottom of the seatboard.
I hope all this helps.
"It is what it is."
Mike.... all the andersen cable systems come with cast metal anchor points and bearing /wearing surfacesnone of the installations we done with andersen had cable to wood wear or bearing poitswe try to get them installed and leave them open so we have access to the bottom adjusting nuts for several daysthe cable system is our primary.... but we always frame in knees as additional support
which is kind of hard because we also have foam insulation under the seat board so we have to allow for good bearing and good insulationMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Sorry, I haven't seen an Andersen in a while, I work with Marvin most of the time. My preference is to have framing support the bay, but I still install it 1/8 to 1/4 high. I find that even an open miter in the framing below will make it sag, There is a lot of weight out there. You can see the sag in DH units more than casements, but w/ casements, if the sag is too far, the sash will not open.
"It is what it is."
Well, you hold the same opinion as I do but apparently, Andersen has addressed the issue(s) in the more recent models. Still, I'm most comfortable building a structural system under the window for both aethetic and support reasons. I'd attach a pix of such if I was able to but for whatever reason it doesn't show up in the posting when I follow the "Attach" button steps.
As for the cable system, I immediately suspected cable "stretch" and instead used solid wire that was tightly bent so there was no give at the bends to lenghthen. But, this was on old Andersens before they incorporated the better attachment points to the mulls.
Back to the other question--Jeld-Wenn windows, any experience with that brand?
Sorry, no experience w/ Jeld Wen.
"It is what it is."