I have a bowed stud that needs to be aqdjusted. It can’t be replaced. Interior non-load bearing wall. I have access to both sides of the wall, no sheetrock yet. Which side do I cut, and how deep?
I’m sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
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Bearing wall?
" Interior non-load bearing wall."I miss at least one of these details every month.
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I love these games.
That it can't be replaced is the imaginary part that intrigues me. You probably could cut on either side, but if you cut on the inside of the curve ( concave?) I think you would tend to get a split in the length of the stud.
I would probably cut at an angle on the convex ( Outer curve) of the stud, force it straght, and then nail it to itself after the kerf closes. That might eliminate the need for a sister to hold it.
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Yes, it probably could be replaced, with more work than I want to expend, but I don't want to and I think (key word) that it would be easier to cut-straighten-sister. It bows into the room, so I'll cut a kerf on the front side and push it back into place.
Thx for the input.
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
"Yes, it probably could be replaced, with more work than I want to expend, but I don't want to and I think (key word) that it would be easier to cut-straighten-sister"Ed,I'm not getting why it would be so hard to take the stud out and replace it. If this is a precut stud it will take you two minutes to rip the stud out and nail a new one in. What's the problem?Is this a balloon framed stud?Joe Carola
Romex.I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Why can't it be replaced, do you have wires and plumbing running through it?
I sometimes plane the convex side straight, and shim the concave side. I usually use 30# felt to shim, mainly 'cause I have a roll around most of the time.
The framer I worked with would cut a kerf with a circular saw about half way through the stud on the convex edge. I think, but am vague in my memeory of this, that he then nailed a piece of plywood to one side after pushing it straight (closing the kerf). Since it's not load bearing, you are mainly looking at something plumb to nail the drywall to.
If its bowed toward you cut a kerf and drive a nail through it. If its bowed away from you cut a kerf, stick a shim in it then drive a nail
Back during the 80's building boom when the studs had leaves on them the week before, we used to do this all the time just before drywalling.
Set your skill saw to it's full depth and cut into the stud from the inside of the curve at the worst part of the bow. Keep a firm grip on the saw because it will have a tendancy to kick back as the stud pinches the blade. Then push the stud into position using a straight edge across the adjacent studs. This will open up the kerf on the opposite side. Slip a shim into the kerf and snap it off clean. Then scab a 3 inch by 16 inch plywood or OSB patch along one side, glued and screwed. If it's a bearing wall scab both sides.
Sounds good, except that Piff thinks cutting the concave side will cause a long split. Is that a real problem?
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
"Sounds good, except that Piff thinks cutting the concave side will cause a long split. Is that a real problem?"
Not a problem my friend, just run some drywall screws in tight to close the split up. Right Piff?
Why didn't I think of that!
I'm sorry, I thought you wanted it done the right way.
Do they make a 3-1/2" drywall - oops - piffin screw?
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