Hello All,
I’m a newbie so be gentle…In the August/Sept issue of Fine Homebuilding there was an article on Box-Beam Ceilings. The dimension for the 2X6 backing was listed as ripped to 4 1/2 “wide. Is this correct? Shouldn’t it be 4 3/4” ? The beams are made up of, 1X4 sides, 1X6 bottom, with a 3/8 rabbet on the bottom of each side for a 3/8 reveal. I want to be sure before I start ripping and end up with a bunch of firewood…
Replies
the blocking should be ripped a 1/4" smaller than needed to allow for expansion. otherwise the final assembly would blow apart with humidity
also dont butt the blocking cross members too tight, allow an eighth each side
Thanks, I thought the dimension was off 1/4" but wasn't sure why. I've got a lot to learn! I'm an Industrial Electrician by trade, but love to do remodeling and wood working projects. I appreciate the tips and fast replies. Great Forum!
I use plywood for interior blocking. Minimal shrinkage and expansion.
Think about a 3/8" dado held 3/4" from bottom edge of 1X4. This will give a 3/8" vetical reveal. This sound like a nice project. Post pics.
Chuck S
live, work, build, ...better with wood
are you going to put halogen cans in the beams as in the article?
Adventures in Home Building
An online journal covering the preparation and construction of our new home.
Yes, That was my plan. I'm not sure if I'm going halogen or incandescent.
I had posted an earlier Q in the FHB Feedback folder when the article came out, but did not get an answer.
Those 3" lights get very hot and I doubt they are IC rated. The installation on most only indicate that they are to be mounted in DW or Ceiling tiles with 3" air clnc all sides.
I want to do the same thing, but I am concerned about the heat. I did find some small cans that need to be placed in metal boxes to make them IC, but the boxes will require the beams to be about 10" wide and 8" deep.
http://jhausch.blogspot.comAdventures in Home BuildingAn online journal covering the preparation and construction of our new home.
Thanks....I'm looking at several options and I'll post what I came up with.
I'm still confused however over the dimensions I mentioned earlier. If I am using a 1X6 for the bottom of the beam and use the dimensions from the article, I'll have a 5 1/4" channel to place the 5 1/2" 1X6 in?????? I want to start ripping the backing tomorrow. Maybe I'm just being dense???
I haven't reveiwed the article, but I for one don't rely on stock lumber to be the size it's advertised to be on a consistent basis.Perhaps he ran the 1x6 through the table saw and ripped it down to 5-1/4"?
Assuming a 1x6 is used for the bottom (5.5") and the sides get a 3/8 rabbet, then you'd need a top nailer 4.75" wide. Go with that and stop over thinking it.
The guy talking about the humidity and the blow out has me stymied. The 1x6 is sitting in rabbets and the part that might expand is 4" away and (theoretically) would pivot the rabbet opening into the 1x6.
http://jhausch.blogspot.comAdventures in Home BuildingAn online journal covering the preparation and construction of our new home.
Thanks again...I thought I was right, but being an amatuer I thought I had better make sure. I have done a fair amount of woodworking, but have also made my share of chips,sawdust and firewood!!