bryant gas heat died at 3:00am
Well OK I don’t really know that it died at 3 but it worked when I went to bed and when I woke up freezing at 4:30 it had been off a while, but the fan was still running. When I turned it off at the thermostat the fan kept running.
When I opened it up and turned it back on at the thermostat the little red LED informed me that I had a “LIMIT CIRCUIT LOCKOUT – occurs when limit or flame rollout switch is open longer than 3 minutes.”
When I called a Bryant dealer the repair man said that it could be any one of 3 lockout switches and that he could come over but it would cost $125 to show up and time and half to work (SATURDAY) and he probably couldn’t fix it till MON anyway. So I said well OK come on MONDAY.
Now it’s dark outside and I’m cold. Any suggestions for a quick fix of a lockout?
model 383KAV036070 SERIES G
Rusti
Replies
kill the power to the unit...
turn unit off at the thermostat...
wait at least one minute and turn the power back on...
call for heat thru the thermostsat..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I did try that, the telephone tech mentioned it, but it didn't seem to make a difference.
Thanks for trying to help.
Rusti
clean the the fire sensor eye with a dry tissue....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Most gas units don't have a "eye" sensor, but a conductive flame sensor.It is just a rod in the flame. It can be cleaned by fine sandpaper.But based on his reading of the error code I don't think that is the problem..
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Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
thankyou..
or clean with a green scrubby pad...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Here's the schematic - thanks guys for all the help.
I don't normally reply to some of these threads, but some of the advice you are getting is scary.
IF you are reading the code right, either the high limit switch is tripped or the flame rollout or fusible link is fried.
Most common is the high limit. It tends to trip and reset a number of times untill it won't reset. Lack of airflow for a number of reasons, with dirty filter being on top of the list.
If it is the link or the rollout, you need to have it looked at.
You need to have the system (furnace,venting, and ductwork)checked and serviced.
You have a unsafe condition, and the SAFETY switches have done their job.
I don't know what the error codes say or what other error messages are available.So first look at notes 10-12 about what options are used on what unit.My guess are that PRS is pressure switch to indicate that the inducer blower is running and LGPS is a gas pressure switch to indicate that you have good pressure. My guess is there is a problem with those that you would have a different error code. But that circuit also has an LAS (axu limit switch) and I can[t figure out what DSS and BVSS are.My guess is that the problem is in ein FRSx (flame roll out sensor), FL (fuseable link - over temp shut down) or LS (limit switch which I suspect is on the door).The upper part of the left side show the wirings on all of those connections are REd..
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Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Edited 12/9/2006 9:25 pm by BillHartmann
can you email the wiring schematic...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!----><!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
It looks like the 383KAV is the base model number. The others are probably the size and other details.
A google on Bryant 383KAV gives lots of hits. Here is one that has the Owners manual.
http://www.gogeisel.com/geiselonline/support/Bryant/373LAV_376CAV_383KAV_395CAV_Gas_OM.pdf
It has does not have the diagnostics or the wiring diagram. But it shows the layout of the parts and shows a couple of manual resets.
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Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I found this.http://www.mailarchive.ca/lists/alt.home.repair/2004-10/2233.htmland this.http://www.mailarchive.ca/lists/alt.home.repair/2004-10/2344.htmlhttp://www.mailarchive.ca/lists/alt.home.repair/2004-10/2344.html"I fixed it by removing the limit switch, cleaning it, tapping on the switch, screwing it back in and turning the circuit back on. Working great now."Now based on that I am not sure what is going on.I think that they have a flame rollout sensor (don't have any idea of how that would work) and door inplace limit switches.It sounds like he bypassed the door limit (open) switch. But I don't have any idea of where that is.But if you do bypass anything them make sure that you still get it checkout and fixed ASAP..
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Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Look at this one. Looks like it has some better information on the limit switch.http://www.hvacmechanic.com/forums/resservice/messages/13327.htm
http://www.diybanter.com/showthread.php?t=72639
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Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I FIXED IT. It was, in fact, the tan credit card with the 2 red wires. I knocked on it with my screwdriver handle a few times and when I tried the system again it started just fine.I cannot tell you all how grateful I am to not have to spend 2 days freezing and then also have to pay a big bill for the fix.Rusti
We posted at the same time.
You didn't "fix" it, you reset the high limit switch.
Now, before everyone jumps on me, have you ever seen a system where the switch stuck closed, but the burners kept running?
tigger, if you don't want to spend the money now, spend it monday and have the system cleaned and serviced. Much cheaper than buying a new furnace.
I agree with Rich. That is not a fix.You need to get the tech to verify/fix the sensor or check the operating tempature of the unit..
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Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.