Hi,
I’m looking at putting together a price for building a saltwater float and wondering if anybody has experience with this–and whether there are some drawings out there (web or book) I can refer to as a design guide.
My understanding is that ACQ is not marine-rated, but .06 CCA is. Anybody hear different?
Would prefer to use rough-sawn non p.t. on decking–what would be the preferred choice for longevity?
This is a light-duty application–replacing an old 12 x 16 foot float. Occasional summer use May-October.
Thanks,
Ed
Replies
.8 CCA is marine rated.. .6 is burial rated...
Who ever invented work didn't know how to fish....
helped build one a few years back - - 55 gal plastic drums captive in the frame - white oak on the top -
I'd think about Trex decking, if not required for structural considerations.
BTW, some lakes (especially those that are reservoirs) have restrictions on the use of PT lumber when it contacts the water. Might ensure it isn't a problem now. (It might not have been when the float was originally built, but once you build new, you may be required to comply.) Just a thought.
Just hike on down to the waterfront and study what is there.
A lot of the guys herre like to use plain old spruce because the PT is so much heavier, you need more foam float bellies to support it and then it still sets lower in the water. Use .* PT for the 4x4 corners and main nailers and then do the strapping and deck with spruce. It is replaceable as it rots off. Cedar might be a choice too, though I haven't heard of using it.
Are you on fresh or salt water with this?
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Hmmm--interesting idea to minimize the p.t. Hadn't thought about the weight factor. Spruce preferred to hemlock?
What about fasteners? I suppose stainless would be ideal if cost were no object.
This is salt water, by the way--island over in the east bay.
Next time I'm down in the village I'll have a closer look at the town floats stacked up over on Cove Street. Seems to me they're p.t. throughout--I think maybe Prock built them, not sure about that. Much heavier duty than what we need, but at least I can get a design figured going.
Much heavier duty than what we need, but at least I can get a design figured going.
Careful on what you might think is overbuilt. I built a 12' cat walk and and attached it to a 10'x10' dock that I built in a fresh water lake with power boats. These thing take a beating. These were in a cove so somewhat sheltered from boat wakes but I think the cove got the brunt of storms.
There are places to get dock building hardware and fasteners. I'm sure a few of the ocean/island dwellers can attest to the need for heavy duty building when it comes to docks and such.
Eric
Edited 2/7/2004 9:19:33 AM ET by firebird
Good point, well taken. This float sits in a relatively protected harbor, but it's fairly exposed to the northwest and gets slapped around pretty good when the wind kicks up from that direction.
In general I agree. Last fall I built a timber bridge on my property across a brook--I deliberately "overbuilt" it (granite abutments, a dozen 6 x 14 stringers spaced 12" o.c. for a 16 foot span) because I wanted the peace of mind. It's rated for over 35 ton load, so I can have a truck loaded with 7 yards of concrete come in and not have to worry about him going in the drink!
The harbourmaster or townies must have the spec and design sheet for those ones. It would be a matter of public record, but getting anyone to dig them out of archives will be your challenge..
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Taunton University of Knowledge
FHB Campus at Breaktime.
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Excellence is its own reward!
Hamilton Marine over on route one in Searsport may be able to help you out too..
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Taunton University of Knowledge
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Excellence is its own reward!
There is a company on Lake Champlain that builds, installs and maintains most of the best docks and floats on the lake. Since the lake level fluctuates 4-6 feet in height over the course of a year and since the lake freezes over most of its surface, there is yearly removal of most of these docks. They use a galvanized steel tube frame fastened to foam-filled plastic floats and either cedar or trex decking. We have used their system and made our own decking and have built our own docks using similar floats and a light wooden frame. We bolt our decking to battens, lay it on the frame and hold it in place with a bungee like cord. These cords allow the decking to move slightly with high waves to reduce the strain on the frame. The frame needs only be strong enough to hold the floats together, ie, very strong at the connections but the floats are well distributed to support the weight.
A 10x10 swimming float, frame and floats cost us $1200 five years ago, the cedar decking by ourselves another $400. A float with 150# buoyancy costs around $100. These floats are a vast improvement over barrels which we have also tried. They deform over time unless the weight is evenly spread over the barrel.
These floats are a lot of fun to build and if you are building them without to much of a tested plan, you will learn humility.