Some of you may have remembered my earlier thread of how to keep a Bobcat from getting stuck in the mud. I got so responses off of that topic and on the larger one of building my workshop. So I decided to start a new thread. Here is the status:
I figured out how to prevent the Bobcat from getting stuck in the mud…
Fire my contractor and hire another one.
I told my original contractor that he needed to complete the job and have it inspected by May 20th or I’m hiring someone else. He said he wouldn’t be able to finish it by then. So I said that’s fine, just send me back my second payment of $3900. “No problem.” he said.
So I hired a new contractor and in a week he is 3/4 done.
It is amazing. If you find the right people things get done.
Anyway, that is the update for now. You can read more about it in my online journal at http://www.theworkshopproject.com
Until next time…
JPS
Replies
30x20? Do you mind sharing expected total cost?
Cloud -Cost has been a factor. For example, I had no idea that it was going to be $5000 to send power to the shop. Luckily I have a wife that is supportive, even as the bills add up. Nothing worth doing is free, or at least that's what I keep telling myself.JPS
Cloud -I just figured out what you were asking. I was originally looking at $20k, but now it is looking more like $25k. The foundation was $11,800 and the electric is going for as high as $7k. First floor framing is another $3k... maybe it is going to be $30k?!JPS
Thank you. That's about 50/sf.I'm curious if anyone else with experience with this kind of thing, given the full plan set you've shown, has their own guestimate? Sometimes it's enlightening to see what different people say for the same item. This is the rare chance to have full plans for a simple structure and get numerous opinions.
So far so good. The foundation has passed inspection for the pour. My contractor says that the concrete is scheduled for the pour on Monday. As long as the weather cooperates, the foundation should be finished next week.
Of course there are pictures:
View Image
See all of the photos
The slab was poured. They started at 2:30 when the concrete was delivered and finished at 7:30, just before thunderstorms came. I have not inspected the finished product yet, but as soon as I do I will put up more pictures.
See all of the photos
JPS
===================================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
This weekend I got something accomplished. First I went to the Percontee gravel pit and got two loads of pea gravel for the drainage ditch. It turned out to be 3+ tons of gravel. Of course my Ranger only has a 1000 lbs. limit, so I was low-riding on the way home.I got the gravel at Percontee, because it is so cheap. Three tons of material only cost me $24 dollars. Originally I was going to buy some gravel at Lowes, but at $2.60 a bag there is no way I would get it there or Home Despot.So I unloaded the gravel in my backyard. I then continued to dig more of the drainage ditch. I finally got enough of the trench dug so that I could put in a ten foot section of pipe. Before I put the pipe in the trench I put down some filter fabric. I then laid the pipe and covered it with the pea gravel.Things to do this week:
1. Finish the trench
2. Cut off the bits of rebar that are sticking out the top of the cinder block
3. Attach the sill plate to the foundation.JPS
===========================================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
Today I finally got to work on the trimming the rebar that was projecting from the cement block. I borrowed an angle grinder from a friend (Thanks Johnny!) and bought some cut-off and grinding discs. The cutting did not go as well as I thought it would. I could not cut as close to the block as I would have hoped, because the grinder would get in the way. This left more of the rebar projecting from the block. I had a lot more grinding to do then I would have liked. I haven‘t finished all of the grinding yet - I have completed about a third of it - , but I am hoping to finish that up tonight.
I have uploaded some pictures of the drainage trench, the slab and one of me grinding away. If anyone needs to use an angle grinder, make sure you wear eye protection, a long sleve shirt, and long pants. The sparks do fly. Even with the long pants shirt I got a couple of sparks that managed to find their way into my gloves. It didn‘t hurt, but it did remind me of the potential for injury.
A couple of other things to mention. When i took the tarp off the slab the other day, I wasn‘t happy with the finish of the slab. It had a lot of bumps and dips in it. I called up Sandro from Matamoros Construction to see when he could come out to fix this. He said he will come out this Saturday to smooth it out and fix a couple of the cement blocks on the backside of the wall. Some of the grout and fallen out in between a few of the blocks.
Lastly, I haven‘t received the second payment back from Fred Graziano yet. I called him and left a very... direct message stating that if I do not receive my $3900 by June 20th, I would be taking it to the next level.
JPS
========================================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
Glad to see uour project is back on track and progressing.
Your website is great.
Good luck on getting your money back from the first foundation contractor.
I agree with Cloud that it would be interesting to see how others would work up a cost for this project.
I invented Coke with Lime.
Having still not received the returned $3900 from Fred Graziano, I called him again on my way home yesterday. As usual, I had to leave a message. In the message I reiterated what I said on Monday, If I didn’t receive the check for $3900 by Monday June 20th, I would be taking it to the next level, meaning small claims court or civil court.
Unfortunately I still had my mobile phone on vibrate from a meeting I had early, so I didn’t know that Fred called me back. He did leave a message stating:
If I don’t get the money from him on Monday, I guess I will file papers with the circuit court of Maryland.
Just what I need, more problems.
Don't let him get away with anything. If you do, he will just nail the next person twice as bad.
jt8
A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty. -- Sir Winston Churchill
Don't erase or tape over that message, you may want it for future reference. Too bad you didn't have a recording of him saying that it was "No problem" to return the second check!
I don't understand this grinding off of rebar that you are doing. Maybe the answer is obvious to the pros, but why didn't they cut the rebar so that it stopped a half inch below the top of the block before they core filled ?
R -I'm not sure about the rebar either. I assume they need the extra bit to hold onto while they pour in the concrete. I don't know if leaving it exposed it standard operating procedure or not. Does any pro have thoughts?JPS
======================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
I am glad for you. I am trying to talk my wife into letting me build me a shop. Everytime she asks me to do something I tell her it sure would be easier if I had a shop. Anyway what I could see of your plans it looks pretty good. They were hard to see when I pulled the up. Take care and good luck. Let me know how it goes.
Wade
Wade -I got lucky. The shop was part of our agreement. When we bought our house, we each had our one wants. She wanted a garage and I wanted a shop. Mine is being built, she is parked in hers.JPS
=========================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
Well like we say in the south, Ladies first. The trouble is all the firsts keep coming and there is never time for the seconds. :)
Wade
Say, jps, that looks like a pretty good set of plans there...Do they print out to scale from the program?
Took me a while to find the exterior finish - just wondered if you considered omitting the sheathing (perhaps instead using it for the interior) and using braces plus double thickness of building paper, and topping with 3/8" strips (rain screen)? Should save a bit on materials that way.cheers
***I'm a contractor - but I'm trying to go straight!***
Pikopete -I created my plans in Adobe Illustrator. I don't know how much you know about this program, but I essentially drew each line by hand and to scale. I drew the plans at 1/12 scale. I don't think the online versions are the same size as my printouts.AS for the exterior finish, I like your idea of using the double-thickness tar paper and 3/8" strips. I think I am going to keep with the vinyl siding to make it match the look of our house.JPS
======================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
Thanks for the info, JPS. I haven't seen the Adobe before, but I do have 2 different bits of software, so I was interested in seeing how they compared. I didn' think for one moment that they would be scaled online - it was how they apperaed on paper that wanted to know.
Now, since you do not have any info on your profile I can only say that the British Columbia Building Code I adhere to requires the 3/8" strips as 'rain screen' - where you live you may have a different code that does not require this additional installation, and you may be able to nail your siding right onto the studs. And I may not need it here if I were to use vinyl siding - as I haven't done so recently I do not know if that application requires the 'rain screen', only lumber. However, be that as it may, your code will probaly require the 2 layers of tarpaper, half-lapped, and some form of bracing. I use either 1x4 cut into the studs, or the "amazing brace" brand kerfed likewise. You seem to have enough wall space on the sides and back for this.
Good going with the structure...looks like fun. Sorry if it looks like l'm 'teaching you to suck eggs', but I always reckon someone else who doesn't know might find this of interest too.
cheers
***I'm a contractor - but I'm trying to go straight!***
Edited 6/19/2005 10:26 am ET by pikopete
On Saturday Monty and Joe came over to help me finish digging the drainage trench. It took us about two hours to finish the digging. Once the trench was dug, I layed down the filter fabric and the drain pipe. I then covered it with the pea gravel I bought the other week. There is still a small amount of gravel to put down. Then I’ll cover the gravel with some topsoil, then that part of the job will be done.
JPS
=============================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
Heres a thought
When I put in our French drain I covered the gravel with landscape cloth so our fine dirt didn't sift down and clog the pipe
Stef
Stef -
I am using a filter fabric to wrap the pipe and gravel to prevent sediment infiltration. I wanted to wrap all of the gravel with the fabric, but it was near to impossible to keep the fabric from falling into the trench. With patience, I was able to contain approximately half of the gravel in the fabric.
View Image
View Image
View Image
JPS
===================================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
This weekend I managed to do some work on the shop. I cut the sill plate, pre-drilled for the bolts, laid down the sill sealer, and inserted the bolts.
I had some problems once I got the bolts into the holes. Some of the bolts just didn’t grab in the holes. I would turn the nuts and the bolts would just keep rising without grabbing. Sometimes the bolts would just turn and turn in the holes along with the nuts. I will need to solve this problem soon.
Here is my guess with what is wrong. I think the holes might be a little too wide. I think there is some runout in the drill. This made the hole too wide and then the sleeves don’t grab in the holes.
I have some pictures that I will upload soon.
UPDATE: I have uploaded the photos from Monday..
JPS
==============================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
Edited 7/5/2005 8:54 pm ET by JPSzcz
Sorry for the long delay in posting, but here is the latest on my workshop:
Saturday was a big day. Two of my friends - Monty and Jon - came over and helped me build the South wall. The first section of the wall took a couple of hours to assemble and lift into place, but the second section only took an hour.
JPS
============================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
Looking good. Somehow I missed this thread before. Nice project.
Always trust your cape.
http://www.hay98.com/
Wonderful job on the workshop and the website...
What a great way to share your experience with others around the world. We do appreciate it and I can't think of a better way to document a project that you will look back on for years.
My wife and I are thinking of flipping our property once I finish the renos on our place. I've already indicated that if we do the one condition I have is a shop. Our current property has a nice shop and I just couldn't imagine not having one.
Thanks again and keep up the posts I'll be lurking all the while...
Cheers
Byron
After hearing a couple of people say that the bracing of the wall might not be significant enough - and hearing that we might get some gusts from the remnants of Tropical Storm Ophelia - I have added some additional bracing to the South Wall.
JPS
======================================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
Hard to tell from the pictures but did you have a vapor barrier under the wire mesh? Gravel?
The plans were too small for me to read when I tried to view them.
Arrowshooter -I did not have a vapor barrier, but there is a wire mesh.Did you click on the pictures? The ones on the page are thumbnails that you can enlarge.JPS
==================================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
I like to put a six mill black poly vapor barrier between the gravel and the wire mesh and re-bar in all slabs which will be inside a building.
This prevents ground moisture from coming up through the slab which will interfere with floor covering if you ever want it.
The pictures are great.
I'm jealous!
Will it be heated, and if so, how?
The Breaktimer formerly known as "Steve-O"
"Preach the Gospel at all times; if necessary, use words." - St. Francis of Assisi
SteveinCleveland -
The shop will be heated, but how is sort of TBD. About a year ago, I bought a woodstove on clearance from Lowes. I felt pretty good about the purchase. Then I talked to someone, and he asked "couldn't the flames from the stove ignite fumes from finishes?"
DOH!
So now I am thinking of using a direct-vent, sealed propane heater. It should workout well. I briefly looked to see how much they cost to have installed, and it looks like somewhere around $3000.
UPDATE: here is a picture of the additional bracing
View Image
JPS
================================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
Edited 9/13/2005 9:55 pm ET by JPSzcz
It is a little late now but radiant floor heat is the best way to go for a woodworking shop. The sealed direct propane is another way, wood dust or chips are best kept away from any open flames. Seems you have had some slow ups, looks like the foundation was done back in July and ready to frame so your last picture only shows one wall up? Well keep at it get it dryed in before winter.
Jeff
Edited 9/15/2005 6:20 pm ET by jeffwoodwork
Jeffwoodwork -Radiant heat was an idea that came too late. Plus the cost was just too much for me.I've had some hang-ups - Contractor problems, problems getting the sill plate attached, finding time during a busy summer. I am going to keep at it. I would like to have it closed in by November.JPS
==================================
http://www.theworkshopporject.com
This was a BIG weekend.
On Saturday my family came over and we got up the West wall. On Sunday three friends came over and we got the North wall. Three walls up, and one to go.
View Image
JPS
========================================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
The fourth wall IS up! I had two friends come over on Saturday to help me out with the last wall. My wife also helped when the little one was sleeping. I built this wall in three sub-assemblies. One for each door and then one for the middle section. I still need to add some sheathing to the last section.
This weekend I am going to try and finish the drainage. I want to get that done, plus I need to wait until I can get the money for the next floor.
View Image See all of the photos.
JPS
=================================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
This past week I had 6 yards of gravel delivered to the house. My wife managed to sweet talk the guy into dumping the gravel right in front of my shop instead of 200 feet away at the road.
On Sunday I had some friends come over and helped me shovel the gravel into the drainage ditch. We managed to do it all in about two hours. I still need about another yard or two to finish up, but the bulk of the work is done.
View Image See more photos
JPS
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
========================================
On Sunday my wife Alice and I finished the sheathing while our little one napped. With the sheathing done I can now start working on the second floor. I'm not looking forward to carrying 31 2x12x20', but every reward has its price I guess. I also need to figure out how to get them up to the top of the wall. Any ideas?
If you had to do it yourself, because I might, how would you get a 2x12x20' up nine feet in the air without killing yourself? I have a friend who is into boats, so he has some block and tackle. I might ask him his thoughts on it.
Here is a photo of the finished first floor framing.
View Image
JPS
================================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
Well it's coming along. Have you looked into TJI's Trus Joists? They are much lighter about 2.5-4 lbs /foot for the 2x12's I think the ones you need are about 3lbs/ft so you are looking at about 60lbs. Pretty easy for one guy to handle.
One way is to bring the joist inside the gargage stick one end up on the wall plate, take a ladder to the other end and walk that end up and set on top of the wall. Takes time and some effort but it can be done. Once you have a couple up you can stack two together support mid-span with a 2x4 post stick the ends up on the outside of the garage and walk the wall, grab a joist walk backwards across the plank dragging the joist to the other side. Repeat this until all 31 are up laying flat, start at one end and roll them up. It can be done by one guy but sure would be nice with 2 or 3 people, 2 on the walls rolling and one feeding joists.
Good luck, Jeff
This past weekend my friend and my wife helped me put up the joists.
View Image
View Image
See all of the photos
JPS
==================================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
I haven't posted any progress in the last month, but it is not because of a lack of progress. I have completed a couple of things since my last posting:
1. Joists and blocking are done.
2. Second floor decking is glued and nailed
3. Ridge beam is up and ready for rafters.
4. I have a date to take my original foundation contractor to court.
Unfortunately it has snowed, so I missed another goal, but oh well.
View Image
View Image
View Image
See All of the Photos
Read the entire journal entry.
JPS
====================================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
In 25 degree weather, Alice and I tented the shop last night, because the weathermen are calling for the dreaded "wintery Mix" on Thursday. To do this, I bought some spring clamps and some more plastic. We cut the plastic into two long sheets 20x35. We then used the spring clamps to affix the one long edge of the plastic to the ridge beam. We then put more spring clamps on the other long end. These clamps are acting as weights. We then tossed the loose end over the sides of the shop. Lastly, we took some plastic that was already cut from before and placed it as much as we could to protect the ends of the shop from rain/snow/sleet.
View Image
JPS
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
Checked out your plans. My question is ,if your planning to do this professionallyy why didn't you Build the shop bigger. Your floor plan doesn't leave much room to build anything?"The purpose of life is rapture. Here and now"
Artman -
Wow. Most people I talk to say something like:
"600 sq. ft.... That's big."
The size of the shop is a balance between cost and size. If you see from my shop layout, I started with the stationary equipment that I thought I would have and laid out any necessary clearances that they would require. Then I essentially placed walls around that area. I then adjusted the size where necessary to make construction easier.
If I made the shop much larger I would have needed a center support for the second floor joists, assuming I didn't go with engineered beams, steel beams, or trusses. Those would have dramtically raised the cost of contruction.
Granted it would have been nice to have a separate finishing room, storage room, assembly room, area to pull a car in, kitchen, bathroom, game room, media center, bar, conservatory, ballroom, wine cellar, and hall of the Presidents, but I had to draw the line somewhere.
:-)
Everyone that has a shop that I have talked to always wants to have more room, but I have read about professional furniture makers working out of one car garages.
I don't think lack of space is going to be a problem. The largest "empty" area is going to be 10 x 12'. That should be plenty of room for assembly and such. If it becomes too small, I can always put the stationary tools on rollers for those times when I need more space.
JPS
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
Having gone your route,I still say your too small.
Most makers that have worker out of a garage are makers that really only make one specialized piece at a time. Like rocking chairs. If you want to do this professionally you don't want to be rolling things around as you need them. Its just a waste of time and space.
I understand the cost concerns. But I'll lay money on the fact you'll be building an addition on soon. Either that or swearing alot."The purpose of life is rapture. Here and now"
I got a quarter of the rafters up on Wednesday. I followed the formula in my book to find out how long the rafter needs to be, but it just didn't work. Solving for triangle, I measured the height or the roof first from the deck, but that didn't work. I then tried measuring the height of the triangle from the top plate, but that still didn't work. Lastly I tried the subtracting the height of the bird's mouth cut from the height of the traingle, and that still didn't work. I just went to a trial and error method, and I finally got a template that would work. There were small adjustments that needed to be for the different rafter placements, but it wasn't too much additional work. Measure twice... cut once.
View Image
See all of the photos
JPS
====================================
I finished installing the rest of the rafters this weekend. The installation kept getting easier as I went through it, and I only had a few mistakes that were easily fixed. I did manage to ruin five rafters in all. I went through three in making the first template, I messed up a cut on a fourth rafter, and the fifth one was a bad board. It split straight down the middle. I'm actaully glad that happened. I wouldn't have wanted a rafter that could give way at any moment.
View Image View Image
JPS
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
=====================================
Looks like a very nice shop and good planning went into it.
But you better get those rollers ready. ;)
This past weekend, my friend Jon came over and he helped me install rafter blocking at the ridge beam and at the top plates. This past weekend we had some rain with some very windy conditions. There were sustained winds of 30+ mph. Needless to say, the plastic that was covering the shop was ripped to shreds. Tonight, the wife and I put up some new plastic. Hopefully this round will last longer.JPS
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
=============================
This past weekend I started on the west gable end wall. I only got up a couple of studs, but the wife put on some of the hurricane clips. I also managed to get a couple of books to help edu-macate myself better. The one that I wished I had earlier was "Working Alone: Tips and Techniques for Solo Building". The author has so many good ideas.
View Image
JPS
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
========================================
On Monday I framed out the second floor window. My friend Monty finished insltalling the rest of the hurricane clips. I have a couple of studs to install on the East gable, and then I can install the second floor sheathing. My back is not looking forward to that.
View Image
See all of the photos
__________________
JPS
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
========================================
This past weekend I got the sheathing up on the South wall's second floor, thanks to a couple of friends. I borrowed a block-and-tackle from my sailing friend Bryan. It worked very well. I had my friend Dave work the line, while I climbed on the ladder and nailed it up.
View Image
JPS
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
I finished the second floor sheathing this past weekend with some help from my friends. Once again, we used a block and tackle to lift the sheathing into place. I am so glad I borrowed it. Next on the list is to finish installing the nailers for the roof venting, installing the fascia, and then the ROOF!
View Image
See all of the photos...
JPS
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
========================================
Over the last three weeks I have finished up a lot of small items that need to be completed before I can start the roof sheathing. These included:-Installing blocking for the wall sheathing
-Installing the spacers for the roof venting
-Finish nailing the sheathing
-Installing the eave's fascia boardsThe last thing I need to do before I install the roof sheathing is to install the rake fascia... I think. That is the question I have. Do I need to install the rake fascia before I install the roof sheathing or can it be done afterwards?Also, if I am going to install vinyl siding, do I install a spacer board in between the wall sheathing and the fascia board to accomodate the thickness of the siding, and allow the fascia board to overlay the siding, or is something else done to make sure water does not run behind the siding? Sorry if I am not explaing this correctly.JPS
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
========================================
Bet ya already feel like you need to double the size....
<G>
Live the Good Life in the Permian Basin.
Nothing in it, still looks huge.
Joe H
Interpidcat -I would like to double the size of it, but I wouldn't like to double the cost :-)JPS
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
===========================
.....to double the cost :-)
Pretty sure that we all know that feeling.
<G>
Live the Good Life in the Permian Basin.
OK, you gonna tell us about that Stop Work order? What's going on?"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
Huck -
The stop work order was because my permit expired. I hadn't had an inspection in six months, and that is past the time limit. I didn't think I could just have an inspector come out to take a look without having a real milestone for them to look at.
But after all of that, I have some good news to report. I can start working on the shop again. Two Fridays ago, May 5th, I went back to the P.G. County Permits Office and got a new permit. Unforutnately it cost almost twice as much as the original permit, $151 instead of $80. When I asked the woman handling the issuance about the different she said "New codes. Each time there are new codes, the fees go up." But the money did not stop there. I also had to pay a $50 "investigation fee" for my expired permit.
After I got my new permit, I immediately called to schedule a "Lift of Stop Work Order" inspection. An inspector came out on the the 11th and said "So why am I here?" Great. He checked my permit and removed the stop work order. The inspector then stated "You can continue to work on the workshop."
Last Saturday, May 13th, Alice and I started to put on the Typar housewrap around the first floor. I ran out of time to put the wrap on the second floor, but I can finish that off next time. I am just gald that I can work on the shop again.
View Image
JPS
==================================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
JP
Nice work, For a homeowner with minimal experience in the trades, I am impressed. It gives you a sense of pride in knowing "you" built it. If your furniture building has same personality you displayed throughout reading this thread, things will go well for you. (positive even during the tough times).Good luck with the whole build and hopefully you have enough dough to outfit that shop like you plan to after all is said and done. You might want to sub out the roofing. That's a steep roof and could you get into trouble (bodily injury) real quick if not careful.Judo Chop!
"Judo Chop!"
LOL! :-)
Thanks for the kind words... and the laugh.
JPS
===========================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
These past three days had a small event, and a large one. On Saturday, the small event occurred. Alice and I managed to cover the East gable end with housewrap. Not a big deal, but another small step to the finish line.The hardest thing about working on a task like the house wrap, is constantly needing to move the ladder. I will need to have the ladder up high, then low, then on the left, then in the middle. Even though housewrap is light by itself, lugging, lowering and raising the ladder all the time tires me out faster then I would like.The second event that happen, just occured today. I went to court. As some may have read, I had some problems with my original foundation contractor, Fred Graziano. He never completed the foundation and never returned my second payment. Long story short, I had to take him to court. Today, was the trial.I showed up at the courthouse, not knowing whether or not Mr. Graziano was going to show up. You see, for small claims court (this might apply to any type of court) the defedent, Mr. Graziano, is supposed to send in an "intent to defend" notice to the court. Once this occurs, the court then notifies the plantiff, me, of the intention. I never recevied a letter from the court stating the Mr. Graziano sent in the intention to defend.Not wanting to take any chances, I still went to the courthouse. When the judge called my case, I was up at the front by myself, without a defendent. The short version of the story is that the clerk swore me in, the judge asked me to tell my story. The judge listened to my story and asked to see my contract with Mr. Graziano. She then ruled in my favor in the amount of $3900, the amount I was suing for.Sweet! Of course this was not the last step. Now I need to actually collect on that ruling. Who knew that in this project I would get an education in law as well as construction.JPS
========================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
This past weekend I installed some roof sheathing on the North side of the roof. Instead of starting with the row of sheathing at the eave end, I squared and snapped a line where the second row would start and laid down the second row. This allowed me to install a stop on the line for the sheathing to rest against. This way, I could focus on squaring the sheathing to the roof and not have to worry about the sheathing sliding off of the roof.
Now that I have the rest of the sheathing installed, I can come back and install the first row of sheathing. I plan on mating the first row of sheathing to the bottom edge of the second row, nailing it off, and then cutting the rest that overhangs the eave flush.
A few words about installing the sheathing. The biggest challenge I had this past weekend was just getting the sheathing up onto the roof. At first I thought it was going to be easy. I was going to use the same block and tackle that my friend lent me. I hooked it to the ridge beam and ran the other end down the roof to the eave. I ended up not using the block and tackle, because I just could not get the line to pull effectively. I think it was because of the angle.
When I used the block and tackle to install the second floor sheathing, it was a straight vertical lift. Everthing went smoothly. This time, since it was at and angle, the catch that would stop the line from moving kept holding on to the line, preventing me from being able to move the line.
I then tried holding the sheathing on my back. I was able to walk up the ladder fine, but I could not transfer the plywood from my back to the roof. The only time I tried, I had to give up and let the sheathing fall onto the ground.
The method that worked best for me, was essentially the brute force method. I would lean the sheathing against my ladder, so that it was standing vertically. Then I would lift the sheathing enough so that I could get my hands underneath the sheathing. I would then start to climb the ladder - one hand on pushing the sheathing from the bottom, the other hand holding onto the ladder. I would continue to climb, with the sheathing sliding up the ladder, until I got to a place where I could place the bottom edge of the sheathing onto a lip or a catch. For the first row, I placed some spring clamps on top of the fascia board to act as a catch.
After the sheathing was stable on the catch, I would then continue to climb up the ladder and rotate the sheathing on the rafters until it was in the proper place.
At one point, Alice was able to give me hand on some of the higher pieces - she would slide it up the ladder, and I would muscle it the rest of the way. All in all, it was not too difficult, but it sure was tiring.
View Image
See all of the photos
JPS
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
========================================
Build a small table about 4 feet high on the ground. Stack your panels vertically on it. Climb on the roof and grab the edge that protrudes above the roof and swing from side to side until you can clear the fascia and then just set it on the roof. It is more about leverage than strenth.You can also clamp a c-clamp to the long edge and drag it up behind you on a ladder.
A long time ago...
In a yard just behind my house...
A workshop was being built, and it still is.
Well it has been a while since I have made an update on the site, so here is where everything is:
I have quit my 9-5, and am now freelancing. Part-time web designer and part-time get-my-shop-built-so-I-can-become-a-part-time-furniture-maker-guy.
The shop is coming along:
I have the windows and doors installed;
The electric has been pulled;
An access ladder to the second story has been built;
I have passed Framing and Electical inspection;
I have uploaded plenty of photos for everyone to look at, but here is a taste:
View Image
JPSzcz
=================================
Piko -
For the outside, I am planning on attaching OSB to the studs, then a layer of Tyvek, then vinyl siding. From what I can decipher from the building code, this is not problem. I'm not an engineer or carpenter, but I beleive the OSB acts as a brace for the framing. In any event the plans that I have passed with the engineers at the permit office, so I think I am OK.
By the way, I don't feel as though your "teaching me to suck eggs". Everyone has their own experiences and points of view.
JPS
=======================================
http://www.theworkshopproject.com
Wade - Did you click on the plan images? They should bring up much larger copies of the plans.JPS
=================================