Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Apr 24, 2009 12:44pm | #1

   7/16" osb + 1/2" drywall.

   Nice solid job and you can hang a shelf or art anywhere without a stud sensor.

    

    

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   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
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1. 
   MikeSmith | Apr 24, 2009 01:32pm | #2

   i like # 2 , only dens-pak instead of fgMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Apr 24, 2009 03:26pm | #6

   The (institutional) Owner has a prejudice against loose insulation so it will have to be batts I'm afraid.

   Any thoughts on 5 1/2" R-19 compressed to 4" space (considering 3/8" vertical furring)?

   I do like the idea of OSB beneath but I hate 1/2" DW and it removes some of the potential insulation space.

   Jeff

   Edited 4/24/2009 8:38 am ET by Jeff_Clarke

1. 
   MikeSmith | Apr 24, 2009 07:15pm | #10

   the fg choice would seem to be 3 5/8 ( r-13 ) or 5 1/2 ( r-19)
   i'd rather used a compressed batt ( the 5 1/2 in a 4 " space ) and sacrifice a little r-valuei'd use unfaced batts if i could get themMike Hussein Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore

2. 
   mike_maines | Apr 24, 2009 07:21pm | #11

    R-19 in a 4" wall gives you R-14

   Edited 4/24/2009 12:22 pm ET by Mike_Maines

   
1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Apr 24, 2009 07:25pm | #12

   Still better than R-11.   And you'd be lucky to get R-3 out of the foam.

   Jeff

2. 
   Piffin | Apr 25, 2009 01:13pm | #16

   R-11?! Do they still make that?Why not use R13 or R15? Then you don't have to fight with compressing it to get the surface material on. 

    

   Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!

2. 
   mmoogie | Apr 24, 2009 01:56pm | #3

   Rip a bunch of 3/8 strips and tack them to t the faces of the existing studs. Or two layers of 1/2" sheetrock would add a lot of noise dampening.

   Ditto on the Cellulose. Lose the FG.

   Steve

3. 
   DonCanDo | Apr 24, 2009 01:56pm | #4

   Option 2 means that you will need to drive nails/screws into the strapping where it crosses the studs, otherwise they will be driven through the DW.

   Why not add a layer of 3/8" DW to the entire wall.  Cheap, easy and fast.  It might mean using 1/2" top layer instead of 5/8" and doing a little shimming.

1. 
   ncproperties | Apr 24, 2009 02:32pm | #5

   Like Piffin said, I've done it in my own home and it's so much nicer to work with. My 100yr old balloon framed rough cut timbers and lath never line up on an even plane, a flat wall was left up to the plasterers. Shimming and easing drywall and not popping heads was a headache at best. Layer of osb worked magic. If not that I'd use #2, least extra material/labor involved and for a few cents more get a little more detailed profile and they'll think it's a special feature highlighting the window.

4. 
   mike_maines | Apr 24, 2009 06:41pm | #7

   A buddy of mine had the same situation, and went over the studs with 3/8" foam board, then 1/2" sheetrock.  Thermal break, insulative value, and it's thin enough that 1 5/8" screws hold the rock in place just fine.

1. 
   Jeff_Clarke | Apr 24, 2009 06:48pm | #8

   That's an interesting idea.   Any problems?Jeff

    

    

1. 
   mike_maines | Apr 24, 2009 07:00pm | #9

   I think he had a few screw pops.  After one heating season he said he wished he had just sacrificed the trim and added more insulation. 

2. 
   rez | Apr 24, 2009 07:39pm | #13

   I used 2inch Dow blueboard on the walls and a cathedral ceiling covering with 1/2 DW and have no screw pops in the approx. 5 years since then, for what it's worth.

   the other half is the proper application of knowledge.

   Edited 4/24/2009 12:40 pm ET by rez

1. 
   mike_maines | Apr 24, 2009 07:41pm | #14

   Rez, did you go directly over the foam with long screws?

1. 
   rez | Apr 25, 2009 04:54am | #15

   Ya, old 1908 1&1/2 storey basic farmhouse shell with no jazz and all beatup to the heavens, 2x4 rafters with no ridge, had been thru 2 fires and 2 floods, tweaked like a corkscrew yada yada.

   Removed the collar ties and sistered 2x6s to the rafters.

   Nailed inch and a half furring for a cold roof vent space and started layering foamboard in there.

   Hadn't heard about using can foam so laid a bead of caulk on the furring and cut the foamboard so I had to hammer it in there with  2x for a tight fit.

   I'd bought a huge stack of overage foamboard from a large logcabin project that had 2", 2 1/2" and 3" thicknesses in it and added various thicknesses I'd bought at a bigbox to match whatever was needed to abut flush to the 2x4's and 2x6's.

   Seems I used 1'' foil on the rafters   under the drywall as a vapor barrier and concerns of not cutting into the headroom.

    The two inch directly under the DW was on the walls and used the plastic cap washers and long drywall screws to secure the foamboard then drywalled without sparing the screws.

    the other half is the proper application of knowledge.