I have a job to build some built-in bookcases under windows but over hot water baseboard heat. I’ve looked into moving the element forward to the front of the toe space and also into the fan units that tie into the hot water pipe and are made for kick spaces. However, both of these methods pull the heat away from the wall with the window, i.e. the heat rising washes the window and keeps condensation from forming. So my question is: Has anyone tried an open kick space with a grille and a false back that allows the heat to rise? The top would have an opening with a grille.
Thanks in advance,
Brian
Norwegian Woodworks
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I've seen that before with steam radiators. A nice brass grille that's flush with a window seat and a box around the radiator that's open at the bottom to allow convection. Just make sure the grille and box are big enough to allow service or air bleed without tearing down the bookcase.
yes ..
works great.
Jeff
Buck Construction Pittsburgh,PA
Artistry in Carpentry
Phil -
I had an object lesson with building something out in my shop and bringing it into the heated house. Aclimate the wood pefore you build the bookcase! (grin) My little lesson only consisted of a jig I had glued up in the shop, then brought inside where it was warm enough for the glue to dry in reasonable time. Most joints pulled apart or opened up due to the wood changing moisture content from the cold dry atmosphere in the shop to the warm moist air in the house.
I would be especially concerned about the wood movement due to being that close to the heat source and the constant air movement around it.
Dennis in Bellevue WA
[email protected]
I would be especially concerned about the wood movement due to being that close to the heat source and the constant air movement around it.
Right you are. In most climates that hot air will dry out pretty much anything you put there. Not much of a problem for sheet goods but solid lumber better be very dry first. Moisture meter time.
I even had a problem in Denver once, where air dry was 7% mc.PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
One of my cake jobs is building radiator covers. If you leave 2-3 inches open at the base of the cabinet, and use that pattern-stamped tin sheet material for the front and sides, you shouldn't have any problems. This will collect dustbunnies, but the customer needs to know that this space is necessary.
Don't cut your bleeder access hole until you set the cab in place, and determine the necessary location.
Good Luck rg
Remember that if you use grilles, there are many types of hardwood grilles available now, so you aren't limited to metal grillles.