While the Knots forum is undergoing renovation, I thought that I’d post here. Is it normal to get burning when using a 40T combination blade like the FWW2 on 3 inch thick stock? I was ripping an 8 inch wide board down and cut it wide assuming it’d burn, and it did. The teeth were only partially above the board, by about 1/8 inch. I was pushing the board thru the saw as fast as I could with a lot of force, and it was not very fast. The fence was set back to the middle of the blade for ripping. I assume that the burning was due to the slow speed of my feed as I couldn’t humanly push the wood any faster. While I’m at it, why am I stuck in courier font when posting? Courier only belongs in a terminal window!
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For me it would be normal. I get some marks even when ripping 3/4 maple or cherry. I always plan on at least 1 pass over the jointer. I understand your problem with feeding the stock. 3" cherry is THICK!For something that thick I'd be tempted to have it rough sawn at a mill and then clean it up in the shop.
Mark
Yup that's normal, there are
Yup that's normal, there are a couple of sprays you can use on the blade/table to make them more slick, don't forget 1/2 of the time the saw kerf gets smaller the instant each side of the cut is freed from the other ..
Good to know that others have similar problems with really thick stock. I couldn't have it sawn down at the mill, half the fun was sawing it down to size on my own machinery!
I've had the same problem
I've had the same problem with the FWW2 when ripping thick stock. I re-sawed a lot of 2 x 6 fir (2 passes) to make shiplap ceiling boards for my wine cellar. I found I just couldn't do it without burning. I bought a relatively cheap ripping blade (I think 32-tooth Oldham), and had no problem, except that the finish can't compare to the FWW2.
I have the same blade and have had burning as well.
The set of the teeth on the WW2 has a very close tollerance to the body of the blade.
So the sides of the blade body rub, or just about rub the wood.
Maybe you'll get one under under the Cristmas Tree?
This helps stabilize the blade so you get very smooth cuts.
But on thicker stock you can get burning.
One way to help is to raise the blade higher.
Asking for one blade to do everything is a bit much.
Do they have a blade for ripping? Less teeth? More set?
I'll bet they do. I'm like you and only have the one.
For 3 inch think stock, the only way I can get the blade higher is if I had a 12-inch saw blade capacity. I thought about getting a ripping blade, but the whole idea of the FWW2 combination blade is that it's supposed to be a bad a$$ combo blade.
I may be missing something, but my own experience has always been that, no matter the saw or blade...
The faster I feed, the more likely I will get burning.
Feeding slower, cuts down on the probability of a burn.
Luka, it's the blade. They
Luka, it's the blade. They are known for doing this.
Ah. True.
I should have read better.
32 is pretty much the maximum tooth count I ever use.
I do have a 44 tooth blade. And the few times I have ever used it, it has been really hard not to get a burned cut with that thing.
Still, even with that blade, I get less burn when I feed slow, rather than force the cut.
Isn't a slower feed rate more
Isn't a slower feed rate more likely to burn? More time near the spinning blade?
IMHO, combo blades suck. Use a rip blade for ripping, like a thin-kerf Freud, or for a more powerful saw (3HP+) the Freud Glue-line rip.
Or rip it on the BS.
Out of curiosity, would one of those sandpaper disks that stick to your sawblade work? I saw them mentioned for miter saws, would they work for ripping on a TS?
I have one of those for my tablesaw but have never used it.
Use one of those, and the grit'll eat your trunnion bearings up pretty quick. After you rip with the proper blace to 1/16", use a GOOD lam blade (80T) to joint the edge, if you don't have a jointer. Cross cut blades with ATB leave marks. A lam blade doesn't, in my experience.
The primary reason for cherry burning is using the incorrect blade for the cut. When ripping, be sure to use a rip blade, not a combo or general purpose blade.
A secondary reason is not having your saw perfectly aligned. If the blade is not parallel to the miter slot and the fence not perfectly parallel or just slightly kicked out in the rear, burning can occur.
BTW, it's not just cherry. Many hardwoods contain sugars and the sugars burn very easily.
Aother thing to check is to make sure you have the proper height on the blade compared to the wood you are cutting. I am a babe in the woods, but my Forrest Woodworker II states that the blade should rise above the wood to basically clear all of each tooth(including the curved portion underneath each tooth).
I noticed some burning on some mahogney I was cutting, and the instructions stated my blade was too low.. I raised the blade so even the curved parts of each tooth cleared, and the problem went away....
Hope it helps,
how to minimize "burn" when ripping cherry...but down the road, when you start sanding, you're going to be facing the same problem. The gum in cherry reacts to heat and turns dark very quickly. This is true regardless of what machining process you are attempting...In fact, it can happen even when hand sanding this wood, if you are the least bit aggressive.
The objective is to avoid exposing the wood to heat. Be sure blades are sharp and always maintain an even rate-of-feed, regarless of the power tool you are using. You'll also have better luck using scrapers as much as possible in the finishing process.
Another alternative is to rip 1/32 -1/16 oversize on either table or bandsaw, and then rerip with fence canted about 1/16 over length of fence(as measured off mitre guage slot) away from blade. This is the best way to rip a glue joint, as wood movement during a rip cut makes a good glue joint impossible. Use this fence setting only for these sort of trimming operations. If you have a Beisemeyer type fence fedex tracking door tag this adjustment can be made in a few seconds.