Can you successfully use butthangers, or my own site-made ones, on 5/8″ Sheetrock? or is the SR too stiff to bend that little bit: I’m concerned about the screws pulling through the rock before the rock bends?
(“Butthangers” are a commercially-made product that pulls the four-foot butt ends of SR boards slightly into the wall or ceiling cavity between studs or joists to create a sort of taper, like what is on the long edges of SR boards, for those who haven’t seen them. Makes for easier taping/sanding of the butt joint.)
THanks
Bob Chapman
Replies
Yes.
Tu stultus es
Rebuilding my home in Cypress, CA
Also a CRX fanatic!
Look, just send me to my drawer. This whole talking-to-you thing is like double punishment.
So you try to miss the ceiling joist when hanging rock with these things?
How much longer do they take to do verses hanging it "normal"?
October 17th, 2009
Jeremy and Lisa
Was there ever any doubt?
Yep, he's trying to miss it, 'cuz that's the best way -- turn every butt joint into a taper. I've been doing that since the 80s, per USG's specs, and I'll never turn back -- I like flat ceilings.AitchKayPS check out USG online -- there's plenty to learn.
You ever hung sheet rock on 1920's framing? Good luck hitting wood after the first sheet.
I've successfully used 1/2 plywood double or triple screwed along seams that don't hit studs or joists, but it was kind of my own solution...not sure how it will hold up long term, but it's doing fine so far (especially on ceilings).
Edit: My success was on 1/2 board, not 5/8, btw.
"It depends on the situation..."
Edited 1/29/2009 10:24 am ET by lindenboy
I do a pretty good amount of sidejobs furring old ceilings with RC1 channel and clips to make them perfectly straight for crown/ cabinets/ tile etc.
You only lose 1/2" from lowest point of the ceiling and the finish carps love it. Mike
Small wheel turn by the fire and rod, big wheel turn by the grace of god.
I thought you knew that the spacing standards for framing in the 20s was based on the black diamonds.
View Image
"A stripe is just as real as a dadgummed flower."
Gene Davis 1920-1985
I think in my house they're based on the white diamonds.
What in the world are black diamonds other than steep ski runs?
"It depends on the situation..."
Bob, You can do it, but you will have to make them yourself. I find the only thing that will work is 3/4" ply and it must be wide. I had to make them about 16" wide before I could get 5/8" sheetrock to bend without pulling the screws through the board. Use lots of screws and tighten them a little at a time.
Maybe somebody else has a better idea, but that works for me. It takes a little longer to install, but certainly makes for a nice looking ceiling in areas where the light coming in the windows highlites the ceiling.
Yeah, 3/4" stock give a bigger bite, and is a good idea.I also use plenty of glue, to make sure that it doesn't fail over time, and I give it a little help with my 2x4 board-hanging tees, 3rd-Hand poles, etc. The extra push is the ticket for me.AitchKay
Ever tried 1/2" "No Sag" sheetrock? It's meant for ceilings but I use it on my walls too for sound dampening/fire. It's only a dollar more per sheet than standard.
We use it with great success in Middle Tn. It's fire rated in case you are wondering.
Good advice!
Try wetting it a bit before you screw, I use a squirt bottle
you are way over think'n it... anything is better that butt ends on 1.5" of stud...
i use all 5/8 rock and use any scrap of anything 3" or so wide.. min being 7/16 osb... cut a min of 50" long 52 prefered... no glue just screws much faster than cut to fit and far less waste
p
There was someone here a year or two back talking about the way he did butts. Met them on a stud, but spaced 1/8" or so, then wet the surface a bit and use something like a wide wallpaper seam roller to mash down the plaster and leave a dimple for the tape.
The Butt Taper
View Image"I am the master of my fate, I am the captain of my soul." Invictus, by Henley.
I have this tool. It's well-made and looks like it would do a good job, but I haven't had the opportunity to use it yet.
I don't think you can have the butt joint meet on a joist. The screws need to be back from the edge (1/2" - 3/4" should be enough) in order to dimple the edge with the tool. Joists are just not wide enough to keep the screws that far from the edge.
Plywood would be my first choice for a floating butt joint because it's more stable than framing lumber.