I have a clear doug fir kitchen to build. Customer wants beadboard panels in doors. Doors will be overlay.
My fir beadboard (ECB)is 3/8″. Can I sneak that into 3/4″ rails and stiles or should I go to 5/4″ fir? (Which is 1″ true I believe.) 3/4″ inch thick doors would be my preference if it can be done OK.
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Just the panels are BB? I'd laminate the stiles and rails from 2 layers of 3/8 and plow the grooves for the panels.
S and R's are typ. 2 1/4" so you can incorporate the bead or rip it off a 3.5" board or am I missing something?
Is your concern the 3/8" thickness and 1/4" standard groove? If so, rabbett the back of the panel or reverse raise it.
Or get 5/4 and plane it down to 3/4".
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Why would I plane 5/4 to 3/4?Wouldn't I just use 3/4?
Q. Can I sneak that into 3/4" rails and stiles
A. yes, just rabbit the back of the frames deeper than the edge detail and finish nail them to the rails and stiles ..
If you want to do this with a 1/4 slot in the frames rip the ends of the beadboard to 1/4" thick, or bevel ..
You can..get long enough screws for the pulls. But most are too long anyway.
I never try to build cabinetry or funiture without re-thicknessing lumber, it's rarely consistant enough for precise joinery. Even that stuff Oak,Pine, and Pop. At the Big Boxes (( WAYYYY over priced) can vary in thickness from board to board.
I just take it for granted that everyone does too..your 5/4 may have cupping that needs to be flattened out, or grain tearout..I don't even think about not dressing the lumber..old habits, die hard.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
I think I would rabbet or back-bevel the panels to fit in the 1/4 inch groove. I don't know the quality of the ply's in the beadboard you're using, but beadboard tends to be, in my experience, a little better than standard plywood. You might have to deal with some gaps, but a little fillers should fix that.
1" rough stock can usually be thicknessed to 13/16 or 7/8" in door part sizes and that leaves plenty of meat for a 3/8" panel dado. If you use cope and stick router bits, you're stuck with the 1/4" dado and have to rabbet the backside of the panels to fit.