Looking for advice on cabinet height with these vessel sinks. Seems like the top of sink needs to stay at the typical counter height of 34″ +/-. My vessel sink is 7 and 3/4″ , that puts my counter height at 26 and 1/4″ . Seems really low to me to even use and might look really strange. Not sure. Any ideas how this is usually handeled. Thanks Michael
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I've always thought these were kind of neat, so I've looked at a bunch of them in local hi-end supply houses. My recollection is that they are always installed in standard cabs, with standard counter heights. The rim of the sink is just higher than typical. At least that's how they do it in the showrooms. YMMV!
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
Put it at whatever height is comfotable. Here's a pic of a vanity I made recently for a powder room (room still not trimmed out at this point). Granite was from my local granite guy. Sink was tough to come by 'cause it's a 14" diameter instead of standard 16." Granite is at 33". Since it's a powder room, height was not critical issue (you ain't washing your face, for the most part, just hands).
Vanity is curved (16" radius) and has a curved toe kick (12" radius). Tough part was getting the door reveal even all around. If you look close you can see a fine line where the door is separate from the rails.
View Image
"A job well done is its own reward. Now would you prefer to make the final payment by cash, check or Master Card?"
Very nice work!
Thanks. I'm always reluctant to post pics of my stuff (tough crowd, high standards) so I slip them in to responses to threads like this. Like dipping a toe in the water. ;-)
Thanks again.
"A job well done is its own reward. Now would you prefer to make the final payment by cash, check or Master Card?"
Did you make the vanity cabinet? Is it coopered or curved some other way? Very nice work!zak
Hey Zak, thanks. Yeah I made it (except the granite -- gave my fabricater a ply template and his troops took care of the top). It's not coopered, it's actually a radiused frame over which are bent two layers of poplar bending plywood. The bending ply went across the entire piece before cutting out the door, so there is perfect grain match and a pretty tiny gap between the door and the frame (cutting the door took a couple of hours to get just right and then another hour or so at least to install the hinge and line up the reveals on each edge). I offered to veneer it in a nice wood but the consensus was that the sort of "lightening bolts" of grain down the front were perfect so, fine with me. I finished it and there she blows.
The plywood ribs are 3/4" thick by 2" deep. Cut them all on my bandsaw in about 3 minutes (screwed a corner of a ply square to the table and "zip" I have a quarter round piece. Move it 2" closer and zip, instant 2" deep rib with perfect radius).
I can post pictures of the inside tomorrow if you're interested.
"A job well done is its own reward. Now would you prefer to make the final payment by cash, check or Master Card?"
Sure, I'd love to see interior pics. Do the interior ribs continue on the backside of the door, or are the glued up pieces of bending ply stiff enough?
Did you cut out that door by plunge cutting with a circular saw? I imagine that would tear out some, but I'm not quite sure how else you'd plunge cut that.
zak
>>Do the interior ribs continue on the backside of the door, or are the glued up pieces of bending ply stiff enough?Did you cut out that door by plunge cutting with a circular saw?
Interior ribs do continue behind the door within a separate door frame.
For the door cuts, after experimenting on test pieces with several different cutting methods, ended up cutting it with a knife. Tried just about everything and everything tore up the wood and/or had too wide a kerf except a very sharp knife. The cut took about 2 hours of drudgery with a knife.
The job is ongoing so I'll post some more pics tonight.
"A job well done is its own reward. Now would you prefer to make the final payment by cash, check or Master Card?"
Hey Zak, sorry for the delay in getting the pics. I was busy ordering materials yesterday and did't get a chance to get down to get them.
Here's the interior of the vanity cab. I didn't finish the interior 'cause no one is supposed to go in there but the plumber. The intent was minimum sized vanity for a power room, so it's very tiny inside (no room for shelves, though I got asked that a dozen times while making it -- like you want shelves or you want to be able to actually get to the toilet? . . . ). The powder room is something like 4'8" x 2'9" very tight space wise.
Anyway you can see the semicircular ribs. The interior of the cab itself is similarly constructed.
View Image
"A job well done is its own reward. Now would you prefer to make the final payment by cash, check or Master Card?"
Nice stuff! there's gotta be a better way than the utility knife though- I think I would do it for about 15 minutes, lose interest, and pick that project up again maybe next year.zak
I really love the faucet... it's functional sculpture (for which I have an appreciation that borders on obsession). Nice work in every way, not many would have taken the pains that you did to get the door just right.
The height of a vessel sink comes down to what looks good to you. I doubt that I've put in more then ten, but they were all installed to a standard cabinet. Luck.
We just instaled one in a house were finishing up and the designer wanted us to put it at 42" high!!!
Seemed very high even though the HO are both very tall.
Doug
Here is a related thought.... in mid to upper end houses the master bath vanities are often a bit taller. Typicaly 36" kitchen height cabinets are used in these 'adult' areas. So, the 34" overall height doesn't necessarily hold true.
typical kitchen counter height is 36" typical vanity height is 30"