My current project was wired by the HO’s brother who is a licensed sparky but doesn’t do wiring full-time anymore. He’s done a fine job and timely.
We have two new inspectors…the structural guy is a real piece of work and the new electrical guy is a close second.
When the elect. guy checked out the rough-in he mentioned that the 30+ recessed cans needed “air-tight” covers (beauty rings and reflectors). That’s a new one on me.
It’s an energy code thing, apparently. Unfortunately, the cans installed, while “insulation contact” rated, do not offer reflectors that are air-tight rated.
The cans involved are those on the second floor below the attic. Is this new in the code, or El Toro Poopoo?
(For what it’s worth, I find it a little frustrating at times that, here on the South Oregon Coast, it rarely gets below 28 degrees, yet our energy requirements are the same as the Dakotas).
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"insulation contact" rated enclosures can be air tight but "air tight covers"? that's new to me too.
He meant something like moisture proof cover for shower application?
No, we got the shower fixture dialed in. These are the cans between the main floor (heated) and the attic space (unheated).
Even the supplier wasn't aware of it.
When it comes to inspectors, I'll usually go along to get along when it's not a big deal, but when it's some new guy with an attitude (and he definitely has one), I just want to know if this is a hill worth dying on. Replacing 3 dozen can lights is a fairly big deal IMO.
Is there really something as air tight reflector trim? What's the story with the supply house?
So I finally ferreted out the actual IRC Code section: It's N1104.2.6 if you're interested (The yellow updates to the 2000 code).
I left my codebook at the jobsite, but, essentially it states that recessed fixtures may not be capable of passing something like 1.7 cubic feet of air per minute from conditioned to unconditioned space. (In my case, living space to attic).
It further states that, even with airtight fixtures, the reflector rings are to be caulked to the ceiling! Sheesh!
An alternative is to construct an air tight box from gypsum board over and around the can. Wouldn't that be fun times 30-some cans?!!!
Part of the problem here (Oregon) is that, until recently, the state building code division often gave some lead-time from adoption of a new code section until the inspectors started enforcing it. A recent example here was the requirement for arc fault devices in sleeping areas. The inspectors would gradually get the word out that they would begin enforcing those provisions within, say, the next year or so.
But the info from the codes office kind of dried up and we have a couple new inspectors who seem schooled to go strictly by the book.
Now, I have no problem with incorporating good-sense features in a new home, but I usually sub out the electrical and trust those guys to perform to a level that passes muster.
This air-tight can-light thing, though, is an electrical device that comes under the jurisdiction of the framing inspector as an energy issue and, to be honest, I was totally blindsided by it.
This air-tight can-light thing, though, is an electrical device that comes under the jurisdiction of the framing inspector as an energy issue
That I can understand.
I feel for you bro, just bad timing on the update and the inspector sticking to his gun.
So let me see....I can buy a Hummer, which is so big it doesn't classify as a car and so doesn't have to met Milage/pollution standards, plus I can write it off.....but I have to upgrade to sealed can lights & caulk the trim rings to the rock.....Tierra-del -Fuego, here I come!
On that Hummer, you'll want 5/8" rock behind the firewall, R-38 ins. in the roof, threshhold pans on every door, arc-fault breakers for the dome lights and dedicated circuit smoke detectors with batteries over the passenger seats.
And those who insist on wearing such pretension on their sleeves, should have a faux Caesar's bust for a hood ornament (not code; just a suggestion)..
I rebuilt my grandmothers house after it burned down and tried to get some $$ back by doing the energy star program. They said all the same things about recessed lights being one of the biggest heat losers. We used Lightolier recessed, and they said that as long as you use the recommended watt bulbs for being in contact with insulation, you could seal the recessed light housing. Talked to an engineer there and he said that a spray foam like great stuff would be fine. The air leakage is just through a few slots and the wire connection on the top, I just sprayed a little foam on the openings and that sealed them very well. I did it from the top, I had very easy access. The inspector should be fine with that.
When I was at the point of insulating the supply house said for a few dollars more per recessed light we could have used the lightolier that is made as an air seal unit. It would have been much easier. But the electrician never mentioned them at all. Oh well, next time I'll be using them.
Here in Ontario we have to use these big blue plastic covers behind pot lights that are in insulated ceilings . We tape the 6 mil vapour barrier to them so the area behind the light is sealed tight. The inspector calls them" the big blue".
Have a good day
Cliffy