Our walls are plaster. The old casement’s were/are approx 5 1/4″.
I just moved a doorway and need to replace the old casement with new. I can only find 4 9/16 or 4 5/8. I was thinking, could I get away with 1″ x 6″ and make it myself?
Is there some special reason why I have to use the stuff with the grooves in the back?
Any and all ideas are appreciated.
Thanks!
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“Have you seen my baseball?”
Replies
You're talking door jamb depths?
You can make your own jambs, the grooves help in the stability of the material (cupping etc). You can groove them or not.
Or you can install prehung a prehung door if you're hanging doors, and extend that store bought jamb.
that is, if you meant what I thought.
If you meant casing, then of course you can make your own. Grooves (relief) again an option. The important thing is that the edges are thicker. Means less surface to contact the surrounding wall. Plow out the inner backside with a dado blade.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
{Plow out the inner backside with a dado blade.}
Ironically, I was just looking at one of these tonight. And I was thinking, what in the world could I use that for.-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Have you seen my baseball?"
The old casement's were/are approx 5 1/4".
perhaps you mean 'casings'? as in the trim around the opening?
sure you can make it yourself - the groove on the back is to allow the casing to bridge any uneveness associated with the plaster - if your flat board 'rocks', judge the spot and relieve the back of the casing with 36 grit on a grinder...
if your boards are flatsawn, put the heart side out, then if it wants to move, it will cup tight against frame and wall....
No, not the casing (trim) but the casement (I thought thats what it was called, guess its the jambs)
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"Have you seen my baseball?"
Edited 2/16/2005 10:04 pm ET by sailfish
Casement is a style of window
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No, not the casing (trim) but the casement (I thought thats what it was called, guess its the jambs)
OK...I guess my answer stays just about the same...I would suggest the selection of straight, untwisted stock so as to minimize the amount of fiddling necessary...I don't see any advantage to 'grooving' the back...rabbet the sides at the bottom and top to accept the threshold and top jamb, (I read this as a door, not a window...) assemble and install as a unit, use shim shingles along with a level to install the jamb level and plumb within the opening....it needs to be solidly attached at the hindge and strike points...
take your time and get it right...makes door hanging a lot easier...
or buy a comercial unit and make some extension jambs...if you are replacing the door, a pre-hung unit would be quicker with a lot less fiddling...but there is a lot of experience to be gained here...
"there's enough for everyone"
Thanks David. I feel confident now I'll be able to make it and complete it properly.
Piffin, yet again, I stand corrected. Thanks!-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
"Have you seen my baseball?"
The grooves help with movement of the wood.
If you have a table saw and a molding head... its no sweat to cut the relief. It also can be done with a router and a router table.
BACK RELIEF
Back reliefs are used to create a better fit over
irregular surfaces. With less wood contact, the
molding matches irregular surfaces more easily.
The back relief should be formed
on a piece of wood before it is molded to finished