Hi,
My wife wants to put a cathedral ceiling in our bedroom. The house is a typical stick built with a gable roof (4/12 pitch). The bedroom is roughly half the width of the house. The ceiling joists rest on a load bearing wall which is being left in place. I plan on leaving 2 or 3 of the joists in place (exposed beam look). What do I need to do in order to accomplish this?
Thanks
Replies
It's been a long time, but you do need stained glass windows and a big crucifix.
-Peter
Excelence is its own punishment.
Depending on the layout of the ceiling joist, pick the locatation where you want to start the opening, in the overhead area, screw a 2x member across all the joist to secure the ceiling.... when the is completed, shore up the ceiling joist from below....this will allow you to cut the individual joist out you wish.... Now using the same size 2x that the joist are , connect a header across the removed areas to carry the outisde loads,, be careful to leave enough material on the original cut to attach to. Headers are then doubled up ,, two pieces nailed together...for strength.. I recoment that you leave at least 18in at the parimeter, around the room, this could be used as a light cove , but also allowes for additional support for the header assembly.... Depending on the dimentions and the lay out of the original joist, you can determine the position of the mock beam or beams... Drywall 4 sides or use your fav. finish. cedar, panneling, ect,,, or even just stain... As for the ceiling , use a furring matl across the new exposed ,bottom of the trusses, to allow air movement , insulate and Drywall.. A good product for furring 7/8 in metal hat channels.. obtained at your favorite DW supply house. also a RC-1 or RC-2 metal product is available... if sound transmission is an issue.... Good Luck Mark.....
Mark,
Thanks for the advice. The ceiling joists run from the ouside wall and the other end rests on a load bearing partition (which is also the bedroom wall). And then a second joist runs from that wall the opposite outside wall. I'm only removing one side. I will build the load bearing partition up to the roof rafters to support those. The header that you refered to, is that to prevent the outside wall from bowing out under the roof load?
Thanks.
Yes . generally the header will attach to the remaining joist ... sometimes it is necessary to double the joist at each side of the header also, depending on the span left between the removed ones.... if the span is more than 8 ft. I suggest you double them up...... over build is safer than under build.... a few $$ now could save several later... Mark....
Mark,
Thanks again. Any suggestions for a light cove?
At the edge that is exposed, let the sheetrock extend above the top of the header 2-3 in. Finish the edge with a metal J bead, this product will give rigity to the exposed edge, as well as a edge for the finish mud.. chose a light style you like, many on the net,, got to Google.com ... a search engine, and enter lighting ... keep in mind the height of the light , you can let the light sit down in or on the ceiling sheetrock between the joist.... some small accent light to shine up on the new ceiling as well as down lights for below.... Mark
Mark,
Yhanks, you've been most helpful.