I’ve read the various posts over the last 6 months regarding installation and am now in the install process. Following a post here earlier, I tried the OSI QUAD caulk and am not pleased. It is pulling away from the joints that I caulked and according the tech info, it should not be tooled. Any thoughts on good caulks? PL? Silicone? What has delivered good results for those installing FC siding. Thanks
Keith
Replies
Somebody who knows something will be along...
elastomeric caulks...
lots of brands...
how wide is the joint(s) to be caulked???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Joint sizes are about 1/8th. There are a couple slightly larger. The separation I am getting is not dependent on joint size.
what kind of seperation are you gettin???
describe...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
a few Q's....
what is the weather at application???
how soon before seperation???
butt joints seperating or the end to corner board or both???
are you packing the joints or just barely bridging the joint???
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Weather has been fine, ranging from about 45 degrees to almost 70. (in Baton Rouge, La.). The separation is primarily from where the FC joints with the trim and is a "clean" separation from the FC side mostly. I noticed it two days after caulking. As to "packing v. Bridging," I would say that I have tried to make sure the joint is filled but the thickness and texture of the QUAD caulk makes it difficult to be sure. It doesn't tool well but on later joints, I was taking a small piece of felt and folding it to use to stuff the caulk into the joint and to smooth it out. Should I just switch to elast. or PL?
switch....
really thick caulk ya say... it's old or out of date....
remove all of the old caulk before recaulk....
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Thanks. I'll run by the lumber yard and see what they have other than the QUAD that fits the specs that Hardie has published. If anyone has any suggestions as to type or brand, I am all ears. Thanks again.
I have used Quad with no problems, so don't know what may have been the issue with yours. That being said the manufactures of a Spanish made FC board that I used on a commercial job looked at a list of caulks I could supply and they choose "Big Stretch" for me to use. One thing I was told that any of the caulks used had to have a "rubber" as the base product.
They can't get your Goat if you don't tell them where it is hidden.
I like PL poly caulk, but it's a pain to work with and it takes a week to set up before you can paint it. Once set, it's killer though. I've heard others use Big Stretch, but I've never seen it at my local supplier, so I've never tried it.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
I prefer dymonic by tremcomost framers around here use vulkem
Barry E-Remodeler
I use the OSI quad-caulk, with no pulling. I use a small rag with wd-40 to rub on my finger in order to tool the joint a corner, and use a small square of foam(comes on my window glass) to tool in the field(butt joints). The foam square forms to the grain of the fiber siding, and pushes the caulk into the joint. I also install metal, or plastic splines behind each butt joint, with some caulk under the siding as well.
1) Did you prime the ends of the boards before caulking? Priming is generally required for decent caulk adhesion.2) How wide are the joints? Optimal width is about 3/16".3) How deep are you forcing the caulk? Generally you shouldn't force the caulk any deeper than about 3/16". Use backer rod on any joints wider than 1/4" or so.
If your view never changes you're following the wrong leader
The caulks we use work better (stretch with movements) the thinner they are applied. Thick joints don't stretch as much, but I don't think that's your problem.
You're caulking to a cut and not primed surface. The caulk is having a hard time grabbing onto the surface. Prime, caulk, prime, paint.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
I did prime the board and the ends but you are right, I didn't touch up after the cut. I'll try that. I ran by the lumber yard and picked up a tube of "big stretch" which was mentioned a few posts back. Caulked a couple of joints and so far it looks much better. I'll know more after it dries. Thanks all.
Geocel 2300