Got offered a job today installing some t&g pine soffitt material, most of it in the gable ends of a log home. HO also wants me to do some vertically-oriented 1×8 red cedar channel siding, about 1400 sf of it by my measure. This will be on the basement portion of the building; the log structure starts above.
I’ve seen a lot of different aspects of carpentry over the years but oddly this particular stuff has never come my way. Anyone car to offer advice re nailing patterns or anything else? There is existing tar paper (4 yrs old) over the sheathing which looks like should come off. So I plan to re-paper then strap with 1×4, angled a bit out of level to allow for water to drain out should it get in behind the siding.
This seems like a fine excuse to buy a siding nailer. My local supplier carries Bostitch and Hitachi at much the same price. Any advice there?
Replies
One vote Hitachi.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
Ah, perhaps explain why...?Lignum est bonum.
Ah, because I won one and have been very happy with it.
J. D. ReynoldsHome Improvements
HO also wants me to do some vertically-oriented 1x8 red cedar channel siding,
I'm not familiar with the term "channel" siding , but I'm guessing it's T&G or maybe ship-lap,?
What was the previous cladding that covered the sheathing?...or was the tar paper the only covering?......I would replace the tar paper with a rain screen material, like Benjamin Obdyke's cedar breather or similiar, and skip the 1x material, then you won't have any problems at window or door openings. Nailing schedule should be 16-24" O.C. (vertically) and blind nailed, like hardwood flooring. I
If your sheathing is questionable as far as nailing is concerned, install the rain screen then install the 1x 3 nailers (set them level) then your siding. Although you will now have to deal with any window/door openings.
no preference on the nailer, I still like to hand nail :O
Geoff
Channel is similar to shiplap but leaves a distinct channel visible. Cedar channel siding profiles:
http://www.wrcea.org/cedar-products/cedar_siding/lap/overview.htm
Sheathing is 1/2" OSB which doesn't meet code for vertical lumber siding application. (Must be at least 5/8"). There is existing tar paper but it has been there 4 yrs (owner on a budget). I plan to trim out the windows and doors with rips from the siding material.Lignum est bonum.
I would not nail vertical siding to the sheathing only, I would install horizontal blocking inside the walls (if possible) at 24" OC and nail into that. If you can't get blocking in there then the strapping will do. I suppose if you don't want to do either then stainless steel trimhead screws would connect to the sheathing well enough. If you can afford the cedar breather then it's probably a good idea.
The Makita coil siding nailer is a nice gun. I bought that but could have just as well got a Hitachi.
Interior is finished and lived in, so stud-space blocking is not an option. Stainless screws... hmm, I wonder if I could talk the inspector into that one. Even the cost of the screws and the extra time to place them would still be less than buying and installing strapping.Lignum est bonum.
Sly, thanks for the link, I'm always learning something new it seems!!
I'm familiar with the 4 lap sidings below the channnel siding, I know them as "drop" or "novelty" lap sidings, also called a "V" groove siding, ....a question though....on your link page the four lower profiles are "face up" on the page, is the "channel" profile also shown faceup?.....in other words is the "V" groove on the back of the siding or the face side? I'm guessing the "V" groove goes face up? thus you can face nail at 1 location(just above where the overlap takes place) and blind nail at the "top" of the exposed piece(so the fastener is covered by the overlap), then you face nail the next piece just above that overlap....am I on the right track?
If I'm wrong on the "V" groove face up part of things then the "channel" presents an interesting fastening question.....do you have 2 exposed nails and always fasten through the "thick" part the material?......
Dave's idea about using screws is a good one...
Geoff
Geoffrey
That style of siding was very popular during the 70's, early 80's here in this part of Oregon. It can be put up diagonally , vertically and horizontally. Over wood sheathing or ply we used felt paper and that was it, no strapping . The "V" side was generally the hidden side. We always nailed it the same as bevel siding, one nail to a stud, placed just above the upper boards rabbit.
One thing we always did was make the laps work so as to protect the seam from the prevailing weather.
"Poor is not the person who has too little, but the person who craves more."...Seneca