I have a customer that wants me to build a cedar garden shed. The roof is going to be cedar. I have done asphalt roofs, but never cedar. I have two questions. I read on the cedarbureau.org’s website that if I use skipped sheathing that the sheathing over the eaves should be solid. Do does anyone think that is necessary on a shed?
The second question has to do with the ridge detail. The installation directions say that I can make the ridge caps or buy them. Does anyone ever make them or should I just try to buy them? It says that if I make them, the fasteners should not be exposed. I thought to make them I could build a jig at my roof pitch and make them on that, but I am not sure how to nail them. Thanks
Replies
The eave detail is mostly for looks from below, your call.
How I run ridge caps is quite simple , rip a slew of wide shingles to 7" and 7 5/8" ( about what the butts measure) . Alternate the weave with the butts away from prevaling weather or line of sight. They lay perpendicular to the shingles on the roof.
Nail back behind the exposure you choose and then no nails are visable except at the far end where you finish off with a reversed course.
Also I REALLY like to use a roll ridge of copper, a lot faster to install and the copper helps with moss control.
Grant Logan can supply you with the ridge roll.
Parolee # 40835
you can't make them in a shop or buy them and have the fasteners all hidden.
I have used premade and set on site and the latter are far superior in appearance and quality.
I use ridge pieces about 4-1/2" to 5" wide, so while shingling when my eye ( it has a built in size gauge) spots one that size, I skitter it to the ground and pile those later, to be used on the ridge.
Then before running the ridge, I staple or nail a 6" wide 30# felt or a strip of Vycor or I%Wshield over the ridge point.
Then I nail on the ridge pieces, like Spherre said with alternating lapps.
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