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I have a similar problem as lazyj42, but in the Northwest. I plan to use top-of-the-line red cedar singles over Typar house wrap and the July FineHomebuilding article on potential trapped moisture problems in sheathing has me worried. The house has southern exposure to high wind and salt spray. A neighbor with the same exposure has problems with shingles splitting and cupping after 10 years. He dipped his in stain before installation. I have deep eves (3 1/2 ft) whereas he does not, but I’m not sure it matters in this climate (not much sun). My supplier said that dipping was unnecessary and that I needed only to wash them after installation and before staining. I don’t have a lot of confidence in his advice, but am not sure that dipping will help either. I’ve heard of nylon mesh which can be used on shingle roofs to improve ventilation, but haven’t heard of anyone using it on walls. This is my retirement home and I really would like it to need minimal maintenance. Any advice?
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I have a similar problem as lazyj42, but in the Northwest. I plan to use top-of-the-line red cedar singles over Typar house wrap and the July FineHomebuilding article on potential trapped moisture problems in sheathing has me worried. The house has southern exposure to high wind and salt spray. A neighbor with the same exposure has problems with shingles splitting and cupping after 10 years. He dipped his in stain before installation. I have deep eves (3 1/2 ft) whereas he does not, but I'm not sure it matters in this climate (not much sun). My supplier said that dipping was unnecessary and that I needed only to wash them after installation and before staining. I don't have a lot of confidence in his advice, but am not sure that dipping will help either. I've heard of nylon mesh which can be used on shingle roofs to improve ventilation, but haven't heard of anyone using it on walls. This is my retirement home and I really would like it to need minimal maintenance. Any advice?
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read the archives .. use the search engine for cedar shingles...
your neighbor doesn't have red cedar shingles if they are splitting and cupping....
*Fur those shingles out. Sounds like your neighbor laid the shingles directly on the wall. Don't follow in his footsteps. Use furring strips to allow air behind them. Fur out the window and other trim as well to make them proud of the shingles. Definitely coat all sides of your trim and shingles with the sealant of your choice. It's good to leave a slight gap between for expansion as well.David Taylor
*david... don't u think yur advice is a little climate specific ?maybe in the land of the constant rain.....but every where else ther is no reason to furr out shingles for sidewall... on a roof... yesbut i wouldn't use a rain screen unless you were in the rainbelt area of say oregon...not even shingle breather... just felt... or tyvekand then shingles right on... no space either unless it's roofing..b but hey, whadda i no ?
*I'd go with Western Red Cedar right over tar paper. I've never seen a cupping or splitting problem w/ these. FWIW- I hear that the acid from the cedar is bad news for tyvek. Of course this is just what I heard, but you might want to do a bit of research on this. I have seen cedar play hell of copper valley gutters I've always used #15 felt under cedar siding.Just my opinion.-pm
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I plan to use western red cedar shingles to side my house. I am living in an area that tends to be warm to hot in the summer and cold (some snow) in the winter. I have heard that cedar shingles split and curb prematurely in areas of extreme weather and temperature differences. Other opinions are welcome and appreciated. Thanks