Cedar shingles on angled exterior wall
OK. This is going to be hard to explain.
Imagine the bottom half of an exterior wall , which you want to shingle, using cedar shingles. The wall is on a sloped grade, ie: the wall is five feet high on the left hand side and only two and a half feet high on the right.
The starter course must be doubled up. Do I just start at the lowest corner, follow the slope up. and cut an angle on the but of the shingles. Repeat to double up the first course, then start my five and a half inch exposure courses?
This method seems to end up creating a triple thick bottom course where the tapered course runs out to zero.
This is hard to explain, hopefully someone that has lots of experience doing this will understand what I’m asking!
Silica
Replies
Easiest is to run them extra and hanging wild, then snap a line and cut them off on the line
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Thanks for that Piffin, although its not quite what I meant....first, the shingles will be butting up to a concrete sill (which is angled) and they can't go over top of it.
Imagine starting on the left, the tallet of the two sides of this wall. If you do the double starter course from left to right, then start again on the left, leaving five and half inches exposure, start your 'first' course. As this course moves along LEVEL TO THE WORLD it will intersect the angled concrete sill (remember the ground and sill and bottom of this wall are all angled up towards the right hand wall) I tried this, and kept getting very thick as the level course intersected with the angles course because you end up with three 'butts' on top of each other as they intersect at the end . It is very difficult to explain why this ends up being a problem, but it seems to create trouble with the next course...it creates a big 'step' that you have to try and bridge with the next course.
I'm hoping someone has done alot of shingling on sidewalls and will know what I mean!Doug
the courses are all level and run to infinity.. only the bottom course gets doubled.. the others will automatically double and triple as you go up the wall
keep all of your courses dead level
if you are getting build up... either incorporate it into your design ( shingle style architecture )... or thin the shingles judiciously ..
no matter what, you should only have three layers... and only one butt..not butt-on-butt...
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike,
I had the same problem on a cottage that I re-shingled with friends. Not exactly rocket surgery, but we were able to get through it, and the results were fantastic.
Except... when it came to shingling over a Screened-In-Porch that we attached to the water side of the cottage. How to start the first course. Like you, we put the first course up the roof line, but that did not work, as it caused the next rows to be doubled-up. We used our 'Call-a-Carpenter Lifeline, who reminded us to keep all rows level.
We started our first course, cutting off the bottoms of the shingles to the roof line. The next row of shingles, becomes the starter course where it meets the roof line. This causes a lot of waste, but it is how it is done. The results are fantastic, with a razor edge line up the roof, with a bit of the step-flashing showing. I have pictures of the process, but not being a 'techie', I have no way to post here.
Just remember to keep everthing level.........Quinhead