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I’ve been investigating to he stuff for my project. I’m finding out that builders hate working with the stuff and most who have installed it never want to deal with it again. I also find that the labor cost for installing it compared to cedar is higher and when all is do you will pay the same for a cedar + insall or cement + install.
I think the product is just not worth the gamble.
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I've been investigating to he stuff for my project. I'm finding out that builders hate working with the stuff and most who have installed it never want to deal with it again. I also find that the labor cost for installing it compared to cedar is higher and when all is do you will pay the same for a cedar + insall or cement + install.
I think the product is just not worth the gamble.
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Jack,
Labor only around here for a fairly staightforward two story is about $100 sq. That would include corner boards, window trim is a maybe. Alittle less for a single story, probably a little more for something taller or wierder. Our labor rates seem to be lower here than alot of places I see on this board. Maybe you can compare the rate difference between our areas by using our new construction labor only composition roofing installation rate of $28 to $30 sq. Yeah, alot of the local siding guys around here will make little whiny noises when you say Hardi-plank. It's really not that much harder to install unless you're working alone. Hope this helps, love the stuff.
JonC
*we rented a shear from the local building mart to cut the dang stuff after running through 50 dollars worth of saw blades. the shear did a great job and cost 20 dollar a day. otherwise we have no complaints other than its hell to set nails in
*Jack...got 5 hardi plank jobs under belt in past year... i charged $2.25 sf, which includes all cedar trim boards.. housewrap and ss nails extrainstalled housewrap first... thenused stainless steel senco strip gun nails to install, top nailing... put felt splines behind all butt joints and corner posts,,, caulked butt joints and left an 8d space as mfg instructions called for... be sure to use caulk called super stretch? i think... dap latex wont stretch enough ...go ahead and buy the recommended shears to cut the stuff... slow cutting at first but alot cleaner and safer than carbide....diamond...etc circ saw blades
*I just did a small a small job 6 dormers off a slate roof. Use a diamond blade (no problems at all except for the dust) back primed each piece and all edges and used a Pasload gun -- once the depth was set, could not keep up with the nailing. With the scaffolding, I could do all of the cutting right at the dormer and did not waste too much time -- set up was a bear but it saved us in the long run -- soem of the days were over 100 degrees. Because of the slate roof 7 days of work we made $11,000. From what I have heard this stuff is hard to beat.good luck
*OK...I may buy a shear...what is the brand name of the shear, what do they cost and where do I buy one?Eric...2.25 and you supplied labor and some materials...the GC provided claps and ss nails?...Here they provide cedar trim, claps and the sub provides nails, flashing. The framer installed tyvek and the painter will caulk when he paints...Would like to here more from all and thanks so far. Oh and I'm starting to see $75 to 100 per square (100sqft) for labor install claps with other fees for all the trim, etc.aj
*The best jobs Ive seen here have specified a Thick bead of vulkem in the butt joint when installed. Seals the ends and gives you a little spacing, calked and weathertite from the beginning if you have a delay with your painters. Most folks here dont leave the 1/8" spacing but we dont have the extremes in temps that you see mentioned on this board.JonC
*Jon,Our supplier said use 1/8" as the worst case and that tighter is better...One installer had trouble with caulk in 1/8" gaps bulging out. I would think a summer install could be done quite tight with very little winter contraction being that it is made of fibers and cement. We are using the Certainteed product which use to be ABTCO's and now is part of the Wolverine line up. It has been pressed, has less moisture or whatever and is more able to handle freezing temperatures or whatever so it is said...aj
*jack....the $2.25 sf price was for labor only... GC provided all materials... i had to provide scaffolding, sawblades, dustmasks, etc... hardy plank website has shear mfg address etc...email me if need more info... will gladly take time to help if i canE
*OK, now there's a perfect example of regional differences. You say "...a summer install could be done quite tight..." thinkin' that winter air is drier, right? Well, here in the Pacific NW, we have opposite moiture situation. Today, for example, the relative humidity was 40 some %. Usually around 90% in winter. Somebody "listening in" could get the wrong impression if they weren't on their toes. - jb
*Thanks Eric...the ballgame is scheduled to start this week...will check hardi plank site next...thanks for info so far.aj
*Jack, we've been using H/plank for almost 3 years on our homes in the Seattle area. Labor is 1.15 to 1.35 per sq/ft. and includes installation of felt, trim and caulking. We use 5/4" primed pine for trim and butt the siding to the corners. We're having good luck with OSI brand "QUAD" caulk, with siding spaced @ H/P specs. A word of caution!! On our first home we tried the Colonial style with the beaded bottom edge. BIG MISTAKE! H/P allows a 1/4" tolerance in width. If you could get the edge bead to line up, the bevel wouldn't. You can imagine how some of the but joints looked. We haven't tried that style again, but maybe they have that problem corrected. All of our siders use carbide blades in a Skil or mitre saw and whatever style nail gun they are most comfortable with. They supply their own blades and nails. Best of Luck. HV
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A.J.:
I installed H.P. on my home last year. I'm just a D.I.Y'er but I found some blades made by DEWALT designed for cutting H.P. The blades came from Home Depot in the Hudson Valley for less than 20 dollars per blade. I bought two but figure I could do more homes with just one. I don't know why the pro's would complain about the stuff. It couldn't be easier to work with. A pieces are identicle. Very little waste! I used Ironwood for trim pieces due to longevity of siding.
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Hey guys...I check this post often and am starting to feel better about this siding...Would like to have more people post their experiences so as to more fully define the "middle ground" for us all...I'll post back how my project goes too...
thanks,
aj
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Need ideas on how much you all are charging to install 6" to 8" claps with 4" to 6" cedar corner boards, along with ledgers and trimming out around penetrations such as windows, doors etc...
The project has many dormers, corners, etc.. and 40 square of siding on an 8000 sq ft two story... in the Northeast.
j
PS thanks for any help...is this info in the archives and what issue was it that covered cement siding in great detail?
*Any ideas out there at all???j