I have installed a chair rail 36″ above floor, down “L” shape hall + main entrance. I would like to install 18″x22″ picture frame moulding below rail. I have 10 different lengths of wall ranging from 28″ to 133″. My question: is there any rule of thumb for spacing, some walls will have 4 frames others 3 etc, do I keep the same distance from the frame to the end of wall or door frame. Thank you for any help.
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I'd take the total wall length and divide by one panel width + 1 stile width ( say 4")
So 4"+18" =22" if the length is dived and a rounding results in an odd number start the panel centered, if even, start the stile in the center..this way the panels will stay the same, and the ends are all you have to flub.
I hope that made sense.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
It woulda if you could spell divided.
Beware the bikini clad female.
She may be interpreted as offensive.
I did that very job for a customer. I called them "faux panels". I kept the spacing between panels and between the last panel and the corner (or doorway) consistent. It was the panels themselves that I varied in size.
I fudged a little bit on spacing so I only needed 2 or 3 panel sizes, but I think it looks best this way.
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We call 'em chairs and squares.John
J.R. Lazaro Builders, Inc.
Indianapolis, In.
Nice stuff Don.....gonna show yer pic to the wife so she gets a visual as to what I'd like to do in our dining room.
Cause trying to explain without pictures, just gets me that deer caught in the headlights stare.
Beware the bikini clad female.
She may be interpreted as offensive.
Thanks for the picture & info. What is the height of your "faux panels".
I know the chair rail is 36", but I don't remember the height of each panel. Somehow, 22" feels familiar, but I can't be sure.
Here's a picture next to a door to help visualize proportions.
My panels are glued directly to the wall ( I used Loctite Power Grab), but if you like the raised panel look, it would be easier to glue 1/4" ply panels to the wall and then frame them out with chair rail cap.
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So you guys make up your frames in the shop? What, glue and pin the miters? Then how do you stick 'em up? Glue and some 18ga brads?Getting ready to do this myself.
Is there any way you could do a photo lesson on how to do that faux paneling? My wife wants that look in our entry and I am "tired of inventing the wheel".
Aaron
It's too late for work-in-progress photos since I've already completed that job and I don't know when I'll get another one like it, but here are some more details on how I did it.
I started with paper and pencil. Based on the length of each wall section and the location of of outlets, I figured out how to size the panels so I would have as few sizes as possible and yet the spacing between all of them would be the same. This step was a lot of trial and error and I was surprised that it took as much time as it did. Of course, once this step was done, I knew how much material I needed, what cuts to make and where to install the panels.
I made all of the panels in the shop ahead of time. I pre-painted the base cap molding, cut each section on a miter saw and glued the pieces together. I don't have a pin nailer, so I only used glue. I used contact cement, but I found that 2 coats works better than 1, especially on the end grain. I made up a little corner jig to hold the pieces at exactly 90° as I pressed them together.
I marked directly on the wall for the location of each panel with a pencil (do not use pen) since everything would be painted anyway.
All that's left now is to stick them on the wall. First, I located the studs because wherever possible, I wanted to nail into a stud. Because of their size, every panel hit at least 1 stud. Each panel got some glue (Loctite Power Grab) on the back, got stuck in place and nailed to the stud (cordless finish nailer). Wherever the panel stood off from the wall, I cross-nailed to hold it while the glue set.
Caulk, paint, done.
Don, Are the panels made of ply with moulding applied. It doesn't sound/appear as though you just applied the moulding on top of the drywall/plaster. I've seen that done before too. Why contact cement instead of construction or panelling adhesive?
The panels (actually frames) that I made are applied directly to the wall. Plywood panels with a frame attached to it would actually have been easier, but it's not the look that the customer wanted.
I used contact cement to join the frame sections because of its "instant" characteristic. Construction adhesive would have worked, but would require clamping. I have no good way of clamping a dozen or more frames at the same time. If I had a pin nailer (and one day I will get one), I probably would have used wood glue.
Gary Katz new video will walk you thru the whole process and give you some easy to do pointers on how to arrive at your panel #'s, stile sizes, etc.One job will more than pay for the video and if it's just for a home owner doing it once and done it's still worth it with all the mistakes you can avoid.Basically, the frame is made as one piece out of 1x material with the stiles pocket holed to the rails and the panels (MDF)are set in place in a rabbet routed in the back of the frame. The applied moldings are glued and pinned as one piece (ala picture frame) and then applied to the opening and pinned in place.Anyone who went to one of his presentations probably got the chance to see it being done, but the video is much more in depth. It's the "Wainsoting & Paneling" program 7. Definately worth the money if you do trim carpentry.You can check it out on his web site http://www.garymkatz.comDan