This should work right?
Old laundry washer outlet and service 220
New washer calls for 110 and 15 or 20 amp. time delay breaker
I should be able to pull the old 220v dual slot 40amp breaker use same wiring that’s 10ga. or smaller, I can’t see anything larger coming out of the box that I don’t already know what it goes to (newer service so it has to be at least 12).
Relocate the second hot leg of the former 220v to being a new ground or neutral on single pole rated breaker and blank slot left open. Wire new single outlet three prong rated receptacle accordingly. White tape on old hot leg turned neutral, green on old neutral turned ground or vise versa minimizing reconnections.
Any determination on picking a 15amp over 20 amp. immediate/slow/long delay breaker? Current wiring gauge should already out rate either with a max run of 50′. Couldn’t find wattage draw on washer and manual list using 15 or 20amp with no preference. What delay selection impacts the rest of the panel/what to look for?
Breakers are Siemens SA type QP
Replies
what are wire colors and how many in the old box???
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WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Wattage for new washer will be the amperage times 120V. I don't see anything wrong with what you are trying to do. Make sure that the neutrals and grounds are properly re-phased (taped) in both the outlet box and in the panel. If your wire and breaker are the proper size, than go for it!
"Make sure that the neutrals and grounds are properly re-phased (taped) in both the outlet box and in the panel."Is not re-phased it is re-identified.And the codes does not allow wires to be reidentified TO neutral or ground for 'small' wires (IIRC smaller than #6)..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Hmmmm. My boss calls it re-phasing. My co-workers call it re-phasing. I guess I'll just call it re-identifying.We "re-identify" #12 AWG all of the time. I wont argue with you on it. If the electrical inspector ever had a problem with it, he never told us. The inspector has final say, not the NEC.
2005 NEC200.6 Means of Identifying Grounded Conductors
(A) Sizes 6 AWG or Smaller An insulated grounded conductor of 6 AWG or smaller
shall be identified by a continuous white or gray outer finish or by three continuous white
stripes on other than green insulation along its entire length. Wires that have their outer
covering finished to show a white or gray color but have colored tracer threads in the
braid identifying the source of manufacture shall be considered as meeting the provisions
of this section. Insulated grounded conductors shall also be permitted to be identified as
follows:
(1) The grounded conductor of a mineral-insulated, metal-sheathed cable shall be
identified at the time of installation by distinctive marking at its terminations.
(2) A single-conductor, sunlight-resistant, outdoor-rated cable used as a grounded
conductor in photovoltaic power systems as permitted by 690.31 shall be
identified at the time of installation by distinctive white marking at all
terminations.
(3) Fixture wire shall comply with the requirements for grounded conductor
identification as specified in 402.8.
(4) For aerial cable, the identification shall be as above, or by means of a ridge
located on the exterior of the cable so as to identify it.(B) Sizes Larger Than 6 AWG An insulated grounded conductor larger than 6 AWG
shall be identified by one of the following means:(1) By a continuous white or gray outer finish.
(2) By three continuous white stripes along its entire length on other than green
insulation.
(3) At the time of installation, by a distinctive white or gray marking at its
terminations. This marking shall encircle the conductor or insulation.250.119 Identification of Equipment Grounding Conductors
Unless required elsewhere in this Code, equipment grounding conductors shall be
permitted to be bare, covered, or insulated. Individually covered or insulated equipment
grounding conductors shall have a continuous outer finish that is either green or green
with one or more yellow stripes except as permitted in this section. Conductors with
insulation or individual covering that is green, green with one or more yellow stripes, or
otherwise identified as permitted by this section shall not be used for ungrounded or
grounded circuit conductors.(A) Conductors Larger Than 6 AWG Equipment grounding conductors larger than 6
AWG shall comply with 250.119(A)(1) and (A)(2).
(1) An insulated or covered conductor larger than 6 AWG shall be permitted, at the
time of installation, to be permanently identified as an equipment grounding
conductor at each end and at every point where the conductor is accessible.
Exception: Conductors larger than 6 AWG shall not be required to be marked in conduit
bodies that contain no splices or unused hubs.
(2) Identification shall encircle the conductor and shall be accomplished by one of the
following:
a. Stripping the insulation or covering from the entire exposed length
b. Coloring the exposed insulation or covering greenc. Marking the exposed insulation or covering with green tape or green adhesive
labels.
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Bill,So I am allowed to change a white wire in a 12-2 or 12-3 romex to a "hot" color (red, black, etc) but I cannot change it back at a later date???? I think it IS allowed, as I am not re-identifying it, I am going back to the original manufacturer's supplied color. Sort of retro-identifying it.While not occourring often, it does happen in changing window air conditioners now that units are more efficient.Frank DuVal
Possibly very technically no. But as you it is just returning it to the orginal conditions so I doubt that anyone would complain.From what I have seen around it, it is very rare for the neutral to have been reidentified in the first place..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
That's the problem Kenmore says 15 or 20 amp. with no prefrence.
It is one of those new electric steam washers so I'd be inclined to belive it's got decent draw for the heating element but also inclined to use 15 in the box for safety making that the weakiest link.
First of all circuit breakers are not designed to protect the appliance. And unless you already have a laundry circuit code requires a 20 amp circuit for the laundry..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
I dont think you understood what I posted. You can recite the Code all day long, but in the end, the inspector has final say. In a pinch, we have had to "re-identify" wire before for common branch wiring. I have not had an inspector call me out on it yet. If he has #12 wire in the box, I don't think that he will have a problem just color coding that wire and adding the appropriate size breaker. I had a teacher last year who had been "doing electrical work for twenty years". Turns out, the only field experience he had was installing fire alarms. They give the guy a book with all the answers in it and think that he can teach us how to be good electricians.Not to knock on fire alarm installers, but it is a far cry from doing electrical work.
"If he has #12 wire in the box,"Actually he should have #8.He said that it had a 40 amp breaker.And he was asked what color wires that he has, but never responded.That is my don't think that this conversion should be done without all of the details.And for the inspector some of them know less than your alarm installer. Ask brownbagg about the inspector on his house.And the inspector is not god. They can't make up their own rules."90.4 Enforcement
This Code is intended to be suitable for mandatory application by governmental bodies
that exercise legal jurisdiction over electrical installations, including signaling and
communications systems, and for use by insurance inspectors. The authority having
jurisdiction for enforcement of the Code has the responsibility for making interpretations
of the rules, for deciding on the approval of equipment and materials, and for granting the
special permission contemplated in a number of the rules"By special permission, the authority having jurisdiction may waive specific requirements
in this Code or permit alternative methods where it is assured that equivalent objectives
can be achieved by establishing and maintaining effective safety."How does the inspector assure that the same same objectives of remarking a red wire to green vs replacing it with the correct wiring..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Interpret NEC however you want, that doesn't change the facts. AHJ has final say, period. Code dictates minimum size wire, #8 is suitable for up to 40A. It doesn't matter how smart you think your inspector is. Do what he says within reason. If he asks you to tie all of your hots and neutrals together in the service panel, you had better talk to his boss, if he tells you to paint your junction boxes pink, do it. I can tell you from personal experience, getting in a pissing contest with the inspector is a bad idea. Especially if you want the job completed and a passed final inspection on time. I understand that you have a thourough grasp of the NEC, and I respect that. You have corrected me on more than one occassion, and I appreciate it. Even the NEC is open to interpretation sometimes, and they realize that. It is legal jargon, written by a bunch of lawyers. Article 90 basically states that the Code is written for safety, not effeciency. Inspectors realize that sometimes things have to be done in the feild not necessarily conforming to the Code, but for the sake of effeciency. As long as they deem these actions not to be dangerous, some inspectors will let them slide. Article 90 states several times that the AHJ is responsible for interpretation and enforcement. The "special permission" that the NEC Article 90 says may be required isn't the NEC, but the AHJ.
It is legal jargon, written by a bunch of lawyers.
Huh?
Go through pages 9 to 20 of the 2008 NEC and tell me how many lawers you find on the 20 code making panels.
Not defending Bill, but when he sites the code he ussually doesn't make broad brush statement like that.
The NEC has been sponsored by the NFPA since 1911. Adoption of all or any part of the NEC is strictly left to each state, so in fact it is not a national code, but is commonly recognized as the presciptive method for safe electrical construction and maintenance.
This is from the Handbook and it is commentary on that section about the Enforcement section."Some localities do not adopt the NEC, but even in those localities, installations that
comply with the current Code are prima facie evidence that the electrical installation is
safe.
Section 90.4 advises that all materials and equipment used under the requirements of
the Code are subject to the approval of the authority having jurisdiction. The text of
90.7, 110.2, and 110.3, along with the definitions of the terms approved, identified (as
applied to equipment), labeled, and listed, is intended to provide a basis for the
authority having jurisdiction to make the judgments that fall within that particular area
of responsibility.
The phrase ``including signaling and communication systems'' was added to the 2002
Code to emphasize that, indeed, these systems are also subject to enforcement."I would take it that any building inspector or home inspector that see a #8 red wire, remarked to green and then connected to a 15 amp devices, via pigtails, would see that as prima facie evidence that it was not a safe system..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
FWIW, KY has still not adopted the 08 NEC. We,moved a little closer to it a month ago but it took a joint effort by NEIA,IBEW,Electrical Manufactures, and the Association of Electrical Contractors to counter the forces of the KY Home Builders Association.
Right now we are still using the 05 version and any building permits pulled before the adoption of the 08 code will grandfather that structure to the 05 code. Most of the inspectors have already had the 08 training and I'm told it is going to be a mess for them to keep things sorted out on and inspection.
Not lawyers in the literal sense. But I am rather confident that manufacturers and insurance companies have quite a bit of sway. See '08 NEC AFCI and GFCI requirments for a residence. Makes me wish I owned stock in the companies that make those breakers. And from a safety standpoint. I could almost argue that it is safer to run #8 on a 20A breaker than #12. Lower resistance and impedance, less heat, less chance for insulation breakdown, less chance for a fault.
"And from a safety standpoint. I could almost argue that it is safer to run #8 on a 20A breaker than #12. Lower resistance and impedance, less heat, less chance for insulation breakdown, less chance for a fault."Insulation breakdown along the run is rare unless there are unusual condition such as running in a hot area. And if that is the case then the code would require up sizing. But even at that #8 would be a very big jump.And most failures are at junctions. And one would be hard to connect a #8 to a 15 amp receptacle. Thus at least 2 more splices would be needed at the receptacle. Breakers have a wider range of wire size, but would probably need a splice also..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
False. Insulation breakdown is the number one cause of circuit failure. The inspector represents the AHJ. It is the inspectors job to interpret and enforce the codes that are adopted by the AHJ. I've seen some stupid things written down by electrical engineers on a set of drawings. Code violations? Maybe not. Will it work the way that the engineer planned it? Definately not.
Edited 2/10/2009 8:47 pm ET by arcflash
A number of areas amended out the requirements for the AFCI when the adopted earlier versions of the code.Have not heard if they are still doing that.BTW, the last time I look, about 2 years ago, one of the local cities adopted the IRC 2003, but amended the GFCI requirement back to the 1996 NEC (only kitchen receptacles within 6 ft of the sink)..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
arcflash: The Inspector is most frequently not the AHJ. The Inspector's job is to inspect work for compliance. They are typically not trained, nor authorized, to make decisions that vary from the code.
Engineers, are in many instances legally authorized to vary from the code if in their professional judgement there is a justifiable reason. But, the better qualified the Engineer, the less likely it is that they will vary from the code. Because, experienced Engineers know that the codes are well thought out, and the personal liability that varying from the codes carries is huge. The Engineer, might occasionally exceed the code, but very rarely will they sign off on anything less.
And, the same holds true for good tradesman. The experienced craftsman knows that their personal liability for knowingly constructing anything that varies from the code, is huge. And, it is not diminished by the fact that the Inspector passed it off. It is hard to sue the Inspector, the AHJ, or the government entity they represent. You, your company, and your bonding company, are far easier targets.
Have one installation, that you do, kill somebody, and you may rapidly find that their estate owns everything you ever worked for. Even though the Inspector signs off on it, they are not responsible. YOU are.
Try showing up in court, and explaining: a.) You didn't really know how to do it right, but did it anyway; or, b.) You knew the right way to do the work, and didn't. Either way you lose. Best case scenario, the legal fees will eat up everything you have, and leave you living in a cardboard box under the overpass, and mumbling to your self about how unfair things are.
Since when can you select the 'time delay' of a breaker? For that matter, what is a "time delay breaker?"
Common breakers are described as 'inverse time delay.' This is as opposed as 'instant trip.' There is no setting for you to adjust, or to choose from.
Off the top, go with the 15 amp breaker. Do NOT use the larger breaker unless you are certain ALL of the wire is #12 or larger. (BTW, 40 amps is to large a breaker for #10 wire).
If you're going to re-identify one of the hot wires, it will be as a (white) neutral.
Judging by the way you ask these questions, I suggest you hire this one out.
I realize there isn’t an adjustment on the breaker. I would have never even considered it and option before until I read the washing machines owners’ manual and it called for
“Preferably a time delay breaker” Having not seen that before or hearing of it I looked it up to find a lengthy technically detailed description on breakers being immediate, short, or long delay. It went to explain how the immediate breakers will affect subsequent circuits besides its own. Now regardless of that information source being accurate or applicable and apparently not in simple residential panels I asked the question wondering if I was missing something I had previously never been concerned with, in this case no.
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I had no intention of hiring this out, and didn’t. I’ve always been smart enough to approach these sorts of problems or task slowly and cautiously testing every step that can be. I’ve always known, I know enough to be dangerous and consider and account for that. I’ve installed, ran, fixed and tinkered with electrical enough to grasp the overall function and theory, from the time I was 8yrs. old making hydrogen and oxygen off the given electrodes through electrolysis with a model train transformer after school out of boredom.
I’ll admit however I tackle panels less frequently and the time lag in between doing so causes me to be less confident and comfortable in doing so when I approach them. Also admittedly not being an electrician my exacting terminology often fails but I still know what I mean.
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I also realize breakers are not intended to protect appliances. However is it not fair to say if an un-fused appliance is serviced by a circuit with over rated breakers and wire it becomes a more dangerous link in the circuit for overheating than any other link? Same being said you wouldn’t want under rated wire either. The safest spot to “fail” and break the chain/circuit is at the breaker as intended, rather than the machine, receptacle, or wire, correct?
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As for the color coding, rephrasing re-identifying, of wires that was based on a quick look after a family dinner and not pulling the receptacle or panel and expecting a 220v circuit to potentially contain larger feeder wire and why else I’m not sure. Wasn’t the case any way it was simple 12ga. Three wire romex 1 black 1 white 1 copper ground.
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Also unless the code has changed since 99’-date on finial inspection tag- and sure it has, when in the box I noticed lots of re-coded wires. Even the main neutral coming in was black with a spiral of white.
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No inspector was ever going to be involved. Just changed breaker and receptacle to drop from 220 to 110 for parents’ replacement washing machine.
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Anyway it’s all done now and it’s probably taken longer for this than it did to change service over. Thanks guys.
"As for the color coding, rephrasing re-identifying, of wires that was based on a quick look after a family dinner and not pulling the receptacle or panel and expecting a 220v circuit to potentially contain larger feeder wire and why else I�m not sure. Wasn�t the case any way it was simple 12ga. Three wire romex 1 black 1 white 1 copper ground."Wire size is determined by the current rating of the circuit, not the voltage.A 20 amp 120 circuit would be wired with the same size wire as a 20 amp 240 circuit.It is only that often 240 equipment has higher current ratings than the common 15 or 20 amp 120 volt circuit.But a number of things don't ring true.With a couple of specialized exceptions you should only have 20 amp breakers on #12 wires. Typically 40 amp circuits only used for ranges (cook tops or ovens). So the first question is if this is a repurposed circuit. And those are 120/240 circuits. As is a dryer. And those circuit are either 4 wire, which have both a ground and neutral wire and not problems. Or 3 wires which only have a neutral and no ground. That would be a problem in converting.But a 240 v washer is not common. So it might be a 240 only device. But it was still wrong. The white wire should have been re-indentified as being a hot."Even the main neutral coming in was black with a spiral of white. "EXACTLY. Large wires can be re-identified to neutral and grounds.Wires 6 and smaller you are only allowed to re-indentify a neutral to being a hot..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
It was a 240v only machine -- from Sweden, and it wasn't a re-purposed circuit, it was a 40amp. (yes 40 not 20 + 20) 2-pole breaker 12awg. solid core 3-wire 1-black 1-white 1-copper ground to NEMA 6-20R. Ground to ground to ground. Black to 1 hot leg on breaker, and "brass" terminal of receptacle. White to 2nd hot leg on breaker, and silver terminal of recept.
That configuration I had nothing to do with. It was done and finial inspected back in 99'
It's now a 15amp. GFIC/Arc fault single pole, filler plate on open slot, same wire, NEMA 5-15R single receptacle, ground prong skyward. Black to breaker and "brass" terminal on recept. White to grounding bar and silver terminal screw on receptacle. Ground to ground on receptacle and ground to who the hell cares cause I un hooked it in the receptacle wall box anyway. Just seeing if anyone was paying attention, ofcourse to grounding bar and recept. box is plastic. Surprised nobody jumped on ensuring that earlier in the thread.
Get because it was inspected, at some earlier point, does not mean that it is right.The amount of inspection will vary drastically. There is no quarantee that each and every circuit is checked. And a few years ago when building was not many people here where reporting that inspectors would stick there head in the door, say that it looks OK, and go on to the other 8 inspection that they had scheduled for the next 2 hours.That is why is not unknown for people buying new or building new homes to get home inspectors to monitor the construction.And it the breaker might have been changed so time after inspection.Regardless, what you had did not follow common practice and thus it immediately raises questions..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Edited 2/3/2009 8:16 pm by BillHartmann
Just a couple of notes for the general audience:
Having "passed inspection" means absolutely nothing. The inspector isn't about to examine every detail of a job site. Nor can we expect an inspector to know every trade. Sad to say, but I know several contractors who make a game of seeing just how much they can sneak past the inspector.
As for being "smart enough:" it's not a question of intellegence. It's safe to say that many tradesmen make their living cleaning up messes made by otherwise intellegent persons. Every man has to know his limitations.
(As an illustration ... I thread pipe as part of my work, I own the necessary tools ... yet I'm no plumber, and not about to move my own gas line!)
Sometimes a post, a reply, a question ... by the way it presents itself, it's clear that the person speaking hasn't even a 3rd grade equivalency in the matter being discussed. Now, this forum isn't really the place to go back to teaching the ABC's; at that point, I suggest they hire a pro.
Indeed, I am bothered by the hubris of those who assume they can do it all. There's not a trade out there that doesn't take years top master ... and tradesmen are at least as smart as your typical college graduate. Let's apply some logic here: if it takes a man 5 years to learn the basics, can we expect another to learn all he needs in five minutes of book learning? Folks, there's a reason it's called a SKILLED trade!
Again ... sometimes a statement is worded in such a way as to show that the speaker does not know the 'ground rules.' Without knowing the ground rules, logic is meaningless. Heck, I can make a logical case for spelling the word 'fish' GHOTI. What is funny in print can be deadly in practice.
You have said it before, this time was exceptional.
Well spoken!
I don't move gas pipes myself either. Last year when I removed a wall with a gas pipe in it, rather than call a plumber, I did what I do... and covered the pipe with trim carpentry. :o)The pipe is in the right column, the left column is just for symmetry:
And were there any threaded fittings in that now concealed run of gas piping?
If yes, then you may have done a "no-no"!
...........Iron Helix
PS...nice columns!
Edited 2/4/2009 7:47 am by IronHelix
Thanks...and no.
"And were there any threaded fittings in that now concealed run of gas piping?"Could you explain?.
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
Locally the gas departments want any threaded connections to be accessible, similar concept as electrical junction boxes. Threads may fail, corrode, etc and leak in an enclosed space.
The advent of corrugated stainless gas line has made this quite doable.
As far as a specific code....I don't now.
......Iron Helix
I don't know how you could run a gas pipe in any kind of closed space. It would have to be exposed space on each end for fittings.I would just about limit you to gas equipment in the bottom floor of a house with unfinished basement..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe
As long as the fittings are accessible for inspection then they can be in a crawlspace, or at the end of a closed chase, or chase with removable panels or in a dropped ceiling system.
Corrugated SS comes in 100 ft rolls so it can be run almost any where with the end fittings at the fixture and attachement to the main.
A recent job called for a propane line to be run through the foundation of garage (40') to make a direct run to the house. In order to satisfy the gas supplier that 3/4" black pipe line had to be run on a conduit with accessible brass fittings at each end and a vent inserted in the conduit for leak detection purposes, since there was a coupling at the center of the run. One end of the conduit would also allow for the gas pipe ro be removed and serviced/replaced.
..............Iron Helix
Not that we're not off topic here, but are you sure you don't mean "unions" instead of threaded connections. I'm pretty versed in this one, having been popped on it and had to put in an access panel a year ago. Threaded connections, however, can be and are buried everywhere per UPC and iapmo mechanical codes.
I'm not a code person, but facilitator to get the job done.
I see lots of "stuff", but do not have to challenge decisions, only have to make sure the project progresses to everyones satisfaction.
I have technical experience but that does not always mesh with code/trade interpretation.
What I do know is that the propane provider would not put propane in the tank until it met their expectations...so I made sure the trades met that standard and the client had service.
I know the local provider for natural gas installation asks that no threaded connections are located in non-accessable locations, be it couplings or unions, within structures. I make sure that it happens.
And yes, I do know the distinction between specific fitting descriptions.
And yes, I will argue for what I feel is the better solution based upon experience and current conditions and realize that my opinion does not mean SQUAT when there is a higher authority sitting on my shoulder.
...........Iron Helix
I know the local provider for natural gas installation asks that no threaded connections are located in non-accessable locations, be it couplings or unions, within structures.
So, for an average person(non plumber) does "Coupling" mean a a straight coupling or does it include 90's? I can't tell you how many 90's I've seen buried in walls, under and behind cabinets, etc.
Any threaded fitting in an non-accessable location!
.....Iron Helix
Never said having passed inspection ensured it was right. Just saying someone else supposedly a licensed journeyman electrician did the original install regardless of it having been right or not and than wasn’t caught by the electrical inspector either. <!----><!----><!---->
The breaker was never changed. It’s my parent’s house and I would have known about it <!----><!---->
Regardless of being safe or right that configuration did work without incident for 10yrs. could it have failed given a longer life span, absolutely. Has this same configuration been incorrectly used somewhere else in the world and failed for some reason? More than likely that's why it's considered incorrect. <!----><!---->
I know inspectors don't catch everything. Last job I got sent 1 1/2 hrs. from the main project to a sister project to get out my carpenters hardware cart out, sprawl hardware parts out. Step ladder in place, tape closer template to the door and pretend to install an electric hold open and closure that I knew we didn’t have the right parts for. Just so the super could whisk the inspector by and say I’ve got my carpenter on these, it’ll be done today and close out a finial inspection punch list. Inspector left, I packed back up and left. I know to date they haven’t been installed and the project is closed out. <!----><!---->
I’ll have to disagree with you on your hubris statement that I really don’t believe it applies here. I’d find it accurate with the H.D. commercial “You can do it, we can help.” In conjunction with their target audience and all the yuppies, property flippers, and those outside of the trades that think their going to tackle all these supposed 3day weekend projects and be as effectively accomplished as by a group of tradesmen. That can do it all mentality yes falls under being hubris. Myself, willing to at least attempt it all after first determining why it should or shouldn’t be, and approaching with greater caution the areas of less familiarity or increased danger (knowing your limitations) and in turn seeking answers to see it through what ever that source is, is by no means hubris. I don’t suggest a given trades apprentice or more importantly field experience can in someway be replaced by any reduced learning method, but a single task may so be accomplished correctly. Most likely not completed as efficiently, safely, cosmetically, or whatever else as would be by that given skilled trade. If that statement isn’t true you can no longer cut your grass because you’re not a farmer, paint your house because you’re not a painter, do your taxes because you’re not an accountant, post in the forum because you’re not a writer, and change your oil because you’re not a mechanic, and so on. <!----><!---->
Guilty of a poorly phrased question and or lack of technical vocabulary? Perhaps. I have however seen a great number of post containing far more vastly misused technical terms and misconceptions on much more elementary of subjects, replied too lacking the resulted fire storm.<!----><!---->
I also haven’t seen any corrections yet to what I did end up doing aside from code calling for a 20amp on laundry service that may or may not have been adapted for this area. Manufacture allows for 15amp. and considering I wasn’t going to rewire and only 12awg. was already in place. <!----><!---->
By the way 3rd grade was series and parallel circuits with 12vdc and miniature incandescent mogul base bulbs with DPDT Knife switch centers. <!----><!---->
I took pains to word that answer in a manner that was general, and not specifically directed at you ... my error was not changing the address to "ALL."
If you feel comfortable, who am I to judge? I think you're in over your head, but I've seen worse.
I once asked a tile-setter about the impact the Home Depot "seminars" had on his work. He loved them! Why, he explained, after the owner messed things up, he'd call a pro. The pro could then charge double ... once to remove the mess, and once again to do it right.
I still contend not in over my head as it's done, test correct, and nobody here has made correction with what I replaced it with.
Not changing the address had less to do with taking issue as did the multiple referrals very closely related to my exchanges and the the thread history. Anyway no need to beat a dead horse any further.
"I still contend not in over my head as it's done, test correct, and nobody here has made correction with what I replaced it with.""I also haven’t seen any corrections yet to what I did end up doing aside from code calling for a 20amp on laundry service that may or may not have been adapted for this area. Manufacture allows for 15amp. and considering I wasn’t going to rewire and only 12awg. was already in place. "#12 wire is good for 20 amps. That is what is used except for very long runs..
William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe